Hi All, I think I resolved the issue, I think it was the SD card. I think it must have had a bad sector or something, I used a new card and the print completed. Hi DC42, the firmware is Marlin. Thanks guys for the help. Mikeby mikefiatx19 - Controllers
HI, Thanks, i will take a look. I had a quick look at the code already but couldn't see a problem. I will report back if anything suspicious shows up. Regards Mikeby mikefiatx19 - Controllers
Hi Guys, I have a Prusa I3 with MKS base v1.3 and I have a problem that it stopped 3 times mid print on my last print for no reason. The temp stays at 190 so the board is still active but the job just sits there and melts into the stationary hot end. The last 3 times it stopped it was in exactly the same spot on the print so I was wondering if it could be the STL file. Strange thing is thatby mikefiatx19 - Controllers
With resin printing you do lose a lot of product due to natural light curing the resin in the machine. I worked with an old SLA machine a long time ago, one of those with a UV laser that drew the part outline in the resin. If you left the build plate for too long then you ended up with an expensive brick. Hardening happens in regular daylight unless your in a hurry then you need the UV chamber. Tby mikefiatx19 - General
HI Guys, I wonder if there is a photopolymer that inhibits at a certain temperature? Then you could warm the vat of liquid but have a piece of cooled glass as the bottom lens area. The the resin touching the glass would never cure. Seems easier than buying or building an oxygen permeable layer. Re LoboCNC, the config 1 you mentioned does not need a rick oxygen environment as the top of theby mikefiatx19 - General
Hi Guys, Re the above. Mailing specs, plans, drawings and such to yourself as certified mail and never open it would not work. The uspto changed the laws about 2 or 3 years ago so it's no longer relevant. The first to file is the official rights owner once it's granted and the first to invent has no grounds to appeal that decision over the first to file. Any docs mailed long before the inventiby mikefiatx19 - General
Use a hairdryer to straighten the parts. And DO NOT use the j-head light without a fan cooling the mount. It will destroy the mounting parts. Happened to me too.by mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Hi Reg, The hotend arrived and I am ready to fit the unit. What X-end do you recommend to fit the Genie to the Smartrap 4.9 (6mm rods)? Thanks Mikeby mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
QuoteKurzaa I was thinking for printing out jewelry to cast into gold. Though now I am wondering if the resin will work for "lost-wax" casting. I am sure you could use a solvent to dissolve the resin rather than heat.by mikefiatx19 - General
Hi Guys, Just to add my 2 cents here because I recently got the v4.9 with the 6mm rods. I noticed when looking at the older Smartrap versions that the drive to reduce cost and simplify the build has let to a less robust machine. I found an older Smartrap for 80 Euro and I bought it because it was such a bargain. I compared the build to my new Smartrap and I was disappointed that the older machiby mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Connect the Ramps board to the PC, open Arduino software, make sure the software is set to 'Mega 2560' in 'Tools, Board'. Select 'File, open' then open the Github files you downloaded and select the file called "Marlin" in the 'Firmware, Marlin' folder. This will open the Arduino sketch and you should see loads of tabs in Arduino. Then click the Upload arrow at the top of Arduino. You will see tby mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Hi, Re how to flash the board. This is a general question that's been answered many times elsewhere. As a starting point you will need the Arduino software at to upload the firmware to Arduino Mega (RAMPS Board). The firmware files for the Smartrap can be found here in the Github files in the Firmware, Marlin folder. Look on Google if you run into trouble as there are too many steps to lby mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Just a thought, Delrin is sold in long square bars so in theory you could make your bushings long and rectangular. That way you could even drill small holes through the square bar to mount it to the smartrap. Might make mounting a bit more secure than the cable tie option and it would look more streamlined.by mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Hi Guys, In case you are interested I used this fan . It has a nozzle to cool the print and a slot to cool the top of the hotend. I opened the slot with a hairdryer and a knife to blow more air over the hot end. I only used one of the screw holes to attach it but its very stable. It's not ideal but it got my machine to build this. I am currently working with blender and the tutorials so hopefuby mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Hi Reg, Genie Mk 2 ordered. I found a fan at and it worked well on my Jhead lite for cooling the hotend and the part. But i want to upgrade anyway as I sometimes have issues with the extruded plastic not coming out straight down and it tries to curl up the side of the nozzle. Looking forward to trying the new Genie Mk 2 when it arrives. Regards Mikeby mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Use a ruler and measure the bearing holes. If they are all the same they are for LM8UU bearings and 8mm steel rod. If the 2 verticle bearing holders in the lowest component in your picture are bigger then the horizontal bearing holders in the same part then you need LM8UU and LM6UU beariings (8mm & 6mm steel rod). I dont see a hotend mount in the picture.by mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
I had a look at the I3 on your website. I dont think fitting the 80mm fan like that would be an option on the smartrap due to the space needed. Regards Mikeby mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Hi Reg, With your hotend do you offer the option of the regular cooling fan for the top of the hotend and also the option of cooling the printed part for bridging etc.? Regards Mikeby mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Hi Guys, I am currently using the latest iteration of the Smartrap from Serge with the J-head lite head and the 6mm steel rods. I have noticed when building tall and really thin objects that the PLA overheats and starts to look like one of those curly type ice cream cornets instead of staying straight. I also noticed that when bridging gaps if I blow on the PLA as it comes out I get a perfect brby mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
If your motors move the wrong way you can turn the 4 pin stepper motor plug around to reverse the direction. Maybe thats an easy fix for you.by mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Hi, With regard to the head moving I had a similar thing. I had to perfect the balance of tightning the bolt that holds the moving arm so that it's loose enough to allow the arm to move, click the switch and then drop back down. But not so loose that it wobbles when its printing. It's a balancing act that you will get if you try a bit. In the end i used a nyloc bolt with the nylon ring inside toby mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
Mine doesn't centre after home command. After G28 it sits in the corner at X0, Y0. That's how it's supposed to be after a home command.by mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
I don't really think I get that much flexing during the probes. How far away from the home position are you probing? I suppose the further from X0 you go to take the probe point the more flex you will have in the X axis. Try probing closer to the start position. So, if you are currently probing X180, Y0 try changing it to X100, Y0 and see if it still flexes.by mikefiatx19 - Smart_Rap
I made the mistake of supporting this startup and now I am stuck with half of a machine as they are unable to combine their intellect to ship me the parts I need. They also seem unable to respond to emails for the last 2 months so it doesn't look like they intend to honour their agreement. I wish I were closer to this company so I could go round and take what I paid for. On a good note, I did buby mikefiatx19 - General
Hi VDX, Isnt a sensor with 10 micron totally overkill on a z axis compared to the one in the link above? 0.01mm seems a bit pointless when most machines are only capable of 0.1mm movements. Mikeby mikefiatx19 - General
The probe command is part of the Slicer custom code. It's the G29 command and has to be in the beginning of every print. I dont use more than 3 probes. I assume that the multiple probes take every measurement into account so if you probe 20 times then the machine will build a complex grid of heights going up and down. The 3 point probe only calculates a plane. There would be no point using the mby mikefiatx19 - General
Check the cable connections in the 4 pin connector. I also blew the gen 6 due to a dodgy connector on the 3dsm. I just measured the motors that i took out of my 3dsm and they are 42mm square by 40 mm long. As far as I know this is a common size. I would like to give you a part number but there is only a QC sticker on the motor. 2nd, buy a RAMPS board, if it blows an axis again replace the drivby mikefiatx19 - General
I have to agree that Gen 6 is a pain in the arse. It's possible that there is no bootloader and you will need an extra board to connect it to your PC. I think thats the first question you need to know the answer to. If it has a bootloader then you can connect it to the USB and use it. You might be lucky and the software might be on there too. If not they you can begin with the Arduino updateby mikefiatx19 - General
Maboo, Your 1st patent re printing with silicone is completely different to whats being discussed here. Your suggestion (Printable support structure from silicone + polymer) is a method for coating the support structure with a release agent (silicone lubricant) so that it does not adhere to the main build material. That way at the end they can be easily seperated. Your 2nd one is interesting thoby mikefiatx19 - General
I recently tried to use cura because it has has a lot of good reviews. I was not impressed with the program. I know it's a matter of personal opinion but i prefer repetier. The newest cura i downloaded on 20 sept 2014 did not have manual controls. I also did not see a line to enter manual gcode commands. My custom gcode entries to switch on the fan were ignored as were my instructions to print eby mikefiatx19 - General