Hey thanks majic. Well, it worked, a little too well lol. The hotend resistor was rated for ~113 volts but at 24 volts it would go from 0 to ThermoNuclear in about 10 seconds flat lol. So, that was the end of that. Wired the hotbed to a sevenswitch and called it a day, no use crying over spilled milk I guess lol Anyways, thanks again!by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Quotethreemicrons EDIT: I accidentally unplugged my +12v and +5v molex extender thus cutting power to my steppers. after i reattached it, the steppers sprang to life. QuoteMeMadMax Check to make sure you got power at the stepper drivers. Do you mean by using a multimeter? Or is there a different way to check? Yea, check with a voltmeter. You would've seen that none of the stepper drivers weby MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Check to make sure you got power at the stepper drivers.by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Hey all. I finished building a Gen7 1.5 and was building a sevenswitch for running 24v's when I got to looking at the schematic for the Gen7 board and it hit me: Is it possible to connect a 24v power supply thru the Conn3 on the board? It looks like it should work. There's only a couple of issues that to me look like could be a problem: 1. Ground. If I connect another psu to this connector the gby MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Try this microsoft KB.by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Update: Machine is running very good now. Printed out test cube last night. Seems the problem was teacup couldn't handle my 400 step motors + 1/32 drivers. Replaced with marlin, everything running good now. ^.^by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Hey, thanks for the great tips. Hmm, my motor is 400 step/rev and I also got the drivers in 1/32 mode. The X/Y seems to be working great, it's Z and *maybe* E that I have problems with, I think, not sure, because I can't get plastic to laydown yet. Anyways, since this post, I have ordered a 24v power supply that will be dedicated to the heatbed, but it hasn't arrived yet. The builder of this hby MeMadMax - Printing
DOH! I guess that's what I get for being lazy lol =D Well, at some point, when I reach build my own pcb level I'll build my own board, that sounds like fun and simple actually lol.by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Yea, this bed can't get to 110(Mk3 ALU) It can make it to around 95, but not much higher. Also he says you can "print directly to the board without glass" It's capable of doing 24v's for the higher temps, think I will try and build a 24v supply for it and see how that goes.by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Thanks guys for all the help, all solutions worked! Now I have new problem: ABS not sticking to Mk3 ALU heatbed as per his instructions. Should I put some kapton tape with glass on it then? Or just put kapton straight onto the heatbed/some other method?by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Gen7 with teacup. DRV8825 drivers. 1/32(400 step) motors from sparkfun. Mk3 ALU heatbed. J-Head 1.75/.3 hotend. ABS First issue is steps_mm. I got X/Y to accept what I think is the correct calculation(320000) in 1/32 mode but Z and E are giving me problems. If I calculate Z, I get the number 8000000(Triffid hunters calibration guide) and feed it to teacup, but then it seems like nothing happensby MeMadMax - Printing
Running Gen7 v1.5 with teacup, Gen7 Endstop 1.3.1, Pololu DRV8825 drivers, and 400 step motors(Sparkfun). Got everything hooked up and running (i think) well. Heatbed/hotend/communications work great. Ok, using pronterface to send commands using its UI(not up to snuff on g-codes quite yet, although I got some down pat). Anyways, first issue is when I send a command to move any motor, the motor tby MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
On your windows machines download/install the MCP2200 "configuration utility"(it includes drivers) after you uninstall all the drivers that you have already(to start with a clean slate) Go into device manager, if you see any com ports with a yellow exclamation point mark, right click on them and click on "update driver"(this part maybe the only thing you have to do, but first step helps) Works gby MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Quick update. Got the new programmer and a second 1284p today. Hooked up the AVR programmer(pololu brand) to the first chip and it was alive and well. Turns out the dapa connection failed after setting fuses(too fast comm speed?) Anyways, thats it, everything loaded and fine. Have a good one.by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS: As majic79 mentioned. The PROGRAMMER name for the pololu AVR programmer is avrispv2, this is the name that you use in the course of following the instructions linked above. So you should have "avrdude -c avrispv2 -P PORT -p m1284p -U lfuse:w:0xF7:m -U hfuse:w:0xDC:m -U efuse:w:0xFC:m PORT should be whatever windows says the avr programmer is using in windows devby MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Thanks Traumflug. I have since ordered a new chip and a "real" AVR programmer lol.by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Check your voltages. If everything is normal, can you read the temp on the top of the chip? If not, stick some sort of heatsink on top of it, can be anything, a bolt, small chunk of aluminum, attach with a dab of hot glue or equivalent and see if that helps.by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Also, I would also like to mention that when avrdude went thru the very first time programming the 1284p's fuses and upping the bootloader it had no other errors except for the chip ID number.by MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
So, the 1284p chip was fresh from mouser with no bootloader. Followed the directions here: "http://reprap.org/wiki/Gen7_Arduino_IDE_Support" for uploading the bootloader using dapa. Right off the bat, avrdude didn't like the chip ID number. Did the -F command override to force it. Continued following instructions listed in link above. Went on to try and install teacup, marlin, nothing happens. Mby MeMadMax - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > QuoteMeMadMaxFix the wiki, that's what they are > seeing first. > > QuoteDark AlchemistPeople have been asking > for the wiki to be fixed for a long time now and > it has fallen on deaf ears. > > Two pairs of these deaf ears are the two which I > cited here, right? Let's see: > > : "Useby MeMadMax - General
Heck, I'll fix the i3 wiki if I'm allowed.by MeMadMax - General
Oh, and I would like to add one more thing: The i3 is supposed to be the cream of the mendel crop right? Then how come the wiki for it is almost near unusable? It needs to be cleaned up and tailored for a noobie, they see this thing right off the bat, start trying to build it, get discouraged because the info just isn't there, then move on to something else. The comments on youtube proves this.by MeMadMax - General
Traumflug is on the right path about the marketing thing. But in my opinion, I think the market for people that actually want to build something like a 3d printer is drying up, and all that is left is the kids with rich parents who just want to buy the machine, toy around with it for a while, get bored, then toss it... Which is all you have once the initial up and up of the popularity of somethinby MeMadMax - General
Hello all. I still haven't finished piecing together my first printer yet but I wanted to run by what I'm thinking of getting so that I can hear from you guys on whether I'm on the right track or not. My goal is best accuracy possible with the absolute minimum amount of plastic string mess on the finished product with intricate designs. I have settled on the Mendel I3 with Box frame, Wade extruby MeMadMax - General