Having a low-cost multimeter will always be a good tool to have, if you want to troubleshoot or debug any kind of electric issues on a 3D printer. And it may very well be the (simple) tool that will prevent you from chain-frying RAMPS boards.by MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
@Dust Ah, okay. Thank you.by MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteChipa I burned my board 3 times ... and now I bought bunch of AMS1117 5v regulators- and keep replacing them .. The linear regulators (such as the AMS1117), are essentially smart resistors. Meaning, that what ever energy is not needed, in order to deliver 5V on the output, is simply being burned-up as heat in the linear regulator chip. So, if you lower the voltage on the Vin pin, thenby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
According to the schematics for RAMPS 1.4, the resistors for the Mosfet LEDs are supposed to be 1.8 K ohm (1K8) If the voltage drop over the diode is about 2 volt, then the rest of the voltage is handled by the resistor. At 12V this will leave 10V for the resistor. 10V / 1K8 ohm = 5.5mA At 24V the resistor has about 22V to deal with. 22V / 1K8 ohm = 12mA A LED will typically work just fineby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Hello All. Sorry about the very long silence, on my part. For decades I have had some health issues. And about a year ago, a new (rather serious) health issue, took me by surprise. And I got a major spin for my money. I am, sorry to say that I have had to abandon the current electronics projects. So I do not expect to finish development on the RAMPS 1.4.4 board. This past year, I have hoby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Quotesl1pkn07 Hi i have a Adafruit Grand Central M4 and seems this board is full compatible with it. is still possible buy one? i have sent to you a email few days ago greetings! Hi sl1pkn07, yes, it is possible to get get a board. Some events did however come up, so I will get back to you next week. Okay. Talk to you later, Alvinby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Quotexsiriox Hi MrAlvin, I'm also very interested to your ramps 1.4.4 board! Can you tell me informations about how to buy one, and if is it possible how to use it with drivers like tmc2208 in uart setup? Thankyou very much! xsiriox Hi xsiriox, I have sent you a private message listing the current options of how to participate, as an early adopter of using this shield. Okay?by MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Or you might want to upgrade your LCD solution to a MKS TFT35 or MKS TFT70by MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
You will need to find (or create) a list, that shows how the pinout of the connectors on the SD card board. Then you need to pair the pins to the AUX-3 pins on the RAMPS 1.4 shield. And finally you need to decide on how to connect/solder the wires together. The easy solution for you, would be if someone already had a LCD adapter, with an extra 10-pin socket on it, so it would be possibleby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteGRAYWOLF Hi, I have been absent for ages (only back as rebuilding my i3) where can I purchase 1.4.4? Hi GRAYWOLF, so far you can get files and/or pcb and/or an assembled and tested shield from me. I will send you a PM via the message system, so you can get more information. Okay? Alvinby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Oh, I just now see that the J28 solder points, are placed right on top of the Arduino Mega USB connector. That might not be an optimal placement! In order to avoid a short, when using an original Arduino Mega, with the big USB connector socket, it will be necessary to grind down those solder points on the under side of the PCB. AND - use some kapton tape on top of the USB connector. Well,by MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
I think that the 1N5819 is a very good choice, over the 1N4001. You might want to revisit the thickness of the PCB traces for the power to the stepper drivers. If at all possible, you might also want to place the 100uF capacitors for each stepper driver closer to where the power is being used. The optimal placement is, so the power first gets to the cap, and then to the stepper driver. Iby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
What kind of firmware are you using? Do you have regular end-stops installed? So you can test the homing response when you use the regular end-stops?by MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Very interesting. And well done to get the central SPI pins connected, so the DUE could also be used. You might however want to be aware that the power-on state of the DUE pins is with the internal pull-up being enabled. So you might want to consider adding some pull-down resistors to the mosfets. I have tested with both a 4K7 and a 10K pull-down on the DUE pins (for the mosfets and pin D37)by MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
The general answer for pull up and pull down on input pins are: Input pins always need to be in a defined (electric) state, otherwise they are going to float (and fluctuate between sensing High and Low). Your hardware design (buttons etc.) can be using either High or Low as the 'Active state', like in 'When the button is pushed' then the button push connects the input pin to either High or Lowby MrAlvin - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Quotemakermelissa Hello, Is there any new word on this? I'm very interested in trying this out with the Adafruit Grand Central. Thanks, Melissa Progress is happening - but going slow. Quotemakermelissa It seems like the purpose of this RAMPS is to allow the use on 32-bit boards utilizing the Arduino Mega form factor. That is correct. This RAMPS shield is designed so it can work well with bby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteMrBW Hi folks, I'm new here in the forum. This is a really interesting thread. Are there any news about the result of the tests of the two boards? Hi MrBW, yes, there are some news. I feel very close to having a Release Candidate of the 1.4.4 shield. Over the course of these projects, I have however been rather unfortunate about an accident and some health issues. Right now I am iby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
hmmm.... I never really looked into the technical details, of the current limiter, so I mainly use it to make sure that nothing gets too hot. And by too hot, I mean; warmer than what I like it to be. Apparently steppers are traditionally (before simple 3D printers) meant to be able to be operated at 80*C. And this is probably the expected operating temperature at the rated amps . But I do notby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
I have a wish: That the electronics never run too hot. I consider temperaturs above 60*C to be Hot and uncomfortable, and above 80-90*C to be TOO Hot. So when a request came in, to try to make the 1.4.4 board usable at 12V power supplies only, then I knew that I had a thermal challenge on my hands. To get a better understanding about what in the current design would work okay at 12V (and dby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Just a short update. I have fallen for the 1.4.4 board. For one, I like the form factor. It is such a cute small board - compared to the 10x10 cm boards. The board started out as: - 24V only - TMC2130 SPI driver select via PCB jumpers. No more SPI-wire-mesh floating over the Stepper drivers - two additional Fan mosfets. - stay the same size as the original RAMPS 1.4 board (or very close toby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteMMcLure Marlin already supports inverting the power supply pin. Just set POWER_SUPPLY to 2 (on Marlin 1.1.x) or set PSU_ACTIVE_HIGH (on current bugfix-2.0.x) to use active high to enable the power supply. Ah, thank you. Good to know, that it has been updated since I looked at it many months ago. So many things have constantly been changing/updated on bugfix-2.0.x over these past months, wby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteRX14 BTW, a bit of a bug on original RAMPS 1.4 is that the PSU pin tends to pull down when the arduino is unpowered, causing the power supply to turn on and get into a loop of the printer switching on and off when USB power is disconnected. This is solved by powering the arduino exclusively over USB, but that's not ideal. Has high-Z at rest on PS_ON been considered in RAMPS 1.7? Hi RX14,by MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, sorry about the long silence. For the past 15 years, or so, I have had some health issues, but I mainly have them under control - until sometime this spring! There I was taken for a spin, down the rabbit hole, like it has not happened for many years. Oh well, life happens. These past few days, I have however again been able to, slowly, start looking into my (otherwise stranded) electronby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Are you aware of this project: - see also - It is essentially Marlin for the ESP32. And it seems that he also has a preliminary prototype board (designed in KiCAD) ready to run this firmware. Perhaps it would be interesting to find out what issues he has addressed, in order to get the ESP32 to run the Marlin firmware.by MrAlvin - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Hi Moddingear, this seems like a very interesting project that you have started. About expanders. I do wonder if it is ideal to use the I2C bus for all the expanders. I wonder if it would be better to use shift register(s). So far the one thing that I am aware of, that has been tested for either direct-pin-connection, or connection-with-expander-chips, for 3D printers, is the LCD. Some speeby MrAlvin - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
One of the main objectives of the move from Marlin 1.x.x to 2.x.x is to do some major restructuring of the entire code base. Such a restructuring is a major undertaking, and can basically be done in one of two ways: - you can re-start from scratch, and re-program everything. - you can implement a new structure, by slowly and meticulously move one procedure/module at a time over to the new progby MrAlvin - Firmware - Marlin
Quotenpm1 Truth be told i have a 3d printer with this silicone heater attached, it works well out of the box with the duet wifi How is this heater connected to the duet WiFi board? Do you have a picture? Or a simple diagram? As you can tell from the response so far, we are lacking some kind of information, in order to fully imagine how you have got this silicone heater to function together wby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Quotenpm1 ...would the EinyRambo support this mod. Would i able to put in a 20a fuse for both the motors and heaters rather than the standard 15a and 5a fuse. Sizes (values) of fuses are typically selected in order to protect wires and connectors, so they do not get warm enough to become a fire hazard. So you can NOT simply replace a fuse, with a larger (higher number) fuse, and expect everythinby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
On an item that exists in a highly price sensitive market, like the RAMPS 1.4 boards do, I would expect that you will need to make a deal with a producer of boards, in order to get the right balance between quality and price. Any "honest" producer (where you can get to talk to actual technicians, or machine operators, and not just sales people) will most likely be able to set up a production liby MrAlvin - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteb4ndit Wiki registration is currently open. New users will have to fill out a reCaptcha to register, create new pages, and edit pages. Once your account is three days old and you have 5+ edits, you should no longer see the reCaptcha every time you try to edit the wiki. If this is not the case for some reason, please let me know. It seems to me that, despite the reCaptcha, the Wiki user regby MrAlvin - General