That looks cool, I wonder how well it performs? I might get a quote on a piece of CSC (carbon silica composite) its normally less expensive than carbon fibre because it's cf on the outside and glass fibre in the middle and looks exactly the same once you run a black marker around the edges. There is a good company called hansell composites (fibrelite) in the UK that do custom jobs, I designedby slymike - General
I think finding 300mm x 300mm copper clad board is gonna be a bit tricky, you might want to design a 150mm x 150mm board and place 4 of them on your bed. This would also make prototyping much cheaper. You could then have a big one made once you get your design right.by slymike - General
Check the link in my signature if you want a daughter board solution and the ability to set temps in pronterface etc...by slymike - General
Thats normally down to your motor missing steps (speed to high, under current, poor driver cooling) or a mehanical fault stopping your axis traveling properly in one direction. It seems end stops are only good for setting your zero position and not as an emergency stop, as they get ignored whilst jogging axis and only work during homing. So, if it happens whilst homing you probably have a wirinby slymike - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Check the sparkfun / Adafruit websites for AVR powered dataloggers, they have a couple and they are cheap! As fas as SMT rework goes, its not hard to pick up if you can get hold of a hot air blower and some scrap boards to practice on, I do it every day! Also if your in the UK, I'm willing to fix your board for beed money!!by slymike - General
Make sure you have setup your "sketchbook" folder (normally my documents/arduino) and that your IDE is pointing to it. In this folder you should have 3 sub folders called hardware, libraries and sketchbook. Witthin this folder you need to copy your Sanguino / gen6 / gen7 (depending) addons into the "hardware" folder. The arduino.h file should be in the "cores/arduino" folder within. Restart the Iby slymike - Reprappers
Hi, I had the same problem when I first flashed Marlin onto my gen6, There is a 'digitalwrite' function somewhere that needs commenting out before it will compile. I can't remember where it is off the top of my head but it relates to turning off the heated bed (which isnt defined). If you want to skip this step you could check out this thread: where I have uploaded a modded version of Marlin vby slymike - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Here are some links to the modified Marlin v1 firmware for the GEN6 Daughted Board. Enjoy, SlyMike.by slymike - Controllers
@BRSS... It's nice that someones interested, I thought I was the only one with a Gen6 board on this forum. lol. I've only been into 3D printing for about 2 months and feel I may be a little behind the times as I picked up an unfinished Mendel and a box of spares and built it with what I found in the box. Anyway.... I designed a second PCB that controls the cooling fan and has connections foby slymike - Controllers
If your power supply to your house is so bad that you need a generator to run your reprap then maybe running it off a car battery might be an idea. Leave the charger perminantly connected and also grab a 500watt inverter to run your PC off (well, it will charge a laptop, printing from an SD card would allow for a headless printer). You would need an automotive fuse box (blade fuses) too, for saby slymike - Controllers
RS Components, Farnell, or if your really desperate Maplain or PC World.by slymike - General Mendel Topics
Hello again, Im new to all this reprapping so bear with me.... You should go over a few things.. Extruder steps per mm in your firmware and extruder ratio in slic3r, make sure they are correct. Check your mechanics. Make sure tour extruder driver isn't slipping or grabbing too tight and shaving your filament off instead of pushing through the hot end. In slic3r set your self a nice big skirby slymike - General Mendel Topics
I hope you like porridge!by slymike - General Mendel Topics
If you can take the pot off and re-solder a new on in its place then do that, just look at the boards schematic and find the value and order a new one from somewhere like RS or Farnell. If you have a decent iron and some solder just put a big blob of solder on each of the three pads and keep touching each one in turn until all three are eutectic (wet / fluid / molten, however you want to describby slymike - Controllers
I dont know how similer your PSU is to the one I fixed last week for a fellow RepRapper but... I was presented with a very similar looking PSU with a blown 6.3A fuse and the problem turned out to be that if the cage wasn't securly fastned the pins on the underside of the Mains selector switch were able to short against the lip of the cage. (which is tucked under the PCB slightly.) A bit of captby slymike - Controllers
It's worth a try, obviously set your autotune temp over or equal to your desired temp also try tuning with fans on and off to see how your P,I and D figures vary.by slymike - General Mendel Topics
Try autotuning your hotend and make sure your fan isn't too blowing to hard. If you want to control your fan try using an lm317 board off ebay instead of a pot inline.by slymike - General Mendel Topics
Better info for the black connectors............. Product Information CRIMP HOUSING, 1 ROW, 4 WAY Connector Type: Wire to Board Series: - Contact Termination: Crimp Gender: Receptacle No. of Contacts: 4 No. of Rows: 1 Pitch Spacing: 2.54mm Contact Plating: Gold Contact Material: Phosphor Bronze Contact Resistance: 20mohm Current Rating: 3A Flby slymike - Controllers
Try this: MOLEX - 63811-1000 - CRIMP TOOL Crimp term,22-30AWG,unplated,reel FUJITSU - FCN723JAUQ - CRIMP SOCKET, PK100 You won't need new housings, all crimps can be removed by hand, the white ones - push the barb back into the crimp, freeing it from the housing. the black one - using a stanly blade or pin, lift the little catch that mates with the crimp and carefully pull it out of tby slymike - Controllers
Farnell and RS Components are good places to look.by slymike - Controllers
The white one is a 0.1" Molex , the black one is also 0.1" try searching for 720 crimp series, for the crimps and black plug. Both types will fit each other's sockets in most cases.by slymike - Controllers
Just thaught I'd share some photo's of My Mendel, with it's GEN6 controller running the heat bed and cooling fans. Its still a work in progress, when I have the time I will scrap the two PCB's in favour of an all in one daughter board.by slymike - Controllers
OK. That last post came a bit too late.by slymike - Controllers
That 0.4r reading sounds like a dead short somewhere, the 0.4 is the impedence of your test leads. Are your resistors wired in a chain Like this (psu +)------(res)-----(res)-----(res)-----(res)-----(psu -).?? If so Your readings should be Ohm value x number of resistors. if not then you may have shorted against the aluminium bed.(assumuming you have 4 resistors screwed to an aluminium bed) hopeby slymike - Controllers
If you have a multimeter, use the ohm test to see if you have a short on your heatbed, i.e. reading less than 1 ohm. That would deffo upset your PSU. I fried a High Side Driver (VNO5) that I was trying and experienced a similar problem.... So if you are using a SSR, FET, HSD, LSD, also check the in and out pins with a meter (whilst the control board is off) to see if your devices is fried (interby slymike - Controllers
Glad you sorted it.by slymike - Controllers
Nice, let me know how it goes and thanks for the feedback!! This heater is good for PLA, although I got mine to settle at 108.9c, in the real world (with a 80mm fan pointing at it) it would take ages to heat up to ABS temps when running on 12v. I have set mine to 70c for the first layer and 65 for all other layers. It holds heat well once up to temp and stays consistant. I added a bit of gcodeby slymike - Controllers
Try adding fuses between your psu, heatbed, fan circuit, controller, etc..... They are cheaper than atx power supplies.by slymike - General
I've got this working if anyone's interested!!!by slymike - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Any joy?by slymike - Controllers