You can source the components yourself, and buy a bare PCB from various places. I doubt you can fabricate only one PCB cheaper yourself. Complete DIY kits often aren't that expensive either. If you intend to make the board yourself, you'd be better off making a set of generation 7 electronics. Edit: For clarity.by Nudel - General
I also use aluminium foil around the resistor, and seal the ends with a high temperature (+260C) epoxy putty called "quiksteel". I don't know how easy - or even if it's possible - to remove the epoxy if the resistor needs to be replaced, but it's worked good on the 5-6 heater blocks I've made.by Nudel - General
Could be the jerk and/or acceleration is set higher in sprinter compared to teacup? How fast do you print?by Nudel - General
Not much to make a tutorial for, really. It's just a box, and the size would depend on the size of your printer. You could even just take a cardboard box and drop it over the printer, cut a hole in the top and tape down a fan. Just make sure the inside temperatures doesn't get too high, especially if your parts are in PLA. Overheating electronics can also lead to a wide range of weird behaviourby Nudel - General
I bought my PTFE tube on ebay. Search for "teflon tubing 3mm". EDIT: Or perhaps 3.5-4mm is a better idea for 3mm filament?by Nudel - General
Many of us prefer OpenSCAD due to its programming nature and simple version control. Others use commercial packages, various cad software or Blender, but you can use whatever program you like.by Nudel - General
I don't live in the UK, but I have shopped a few times from signmaterialsdirect on ebay. They also seem to have a website http://www.sign-displays.com/ but I have only bought from them through ebay. Fast shipping and great service.by Nudel - General
First of all, brilliant idea! If you buy a complete kit from a serious vendor, that time would be no problem at all. If you self source, it'll take many hours to learn about the different parts you need and avoid the pitfalls, and it'll take longer to order parts you missed and so on. So it'd depend on your budget. I'd think that any way, at least one or two of you need to dedicate more of yourby Nudel - General
VDrom Wrote: > @Nudel, Good to know I'm looking in the right > places so far. What sort of soldering equipment > would you recommend to get the job done > appropriately? I don't know how much soldering is required on the various sets so you have to ask the vendors about that. But generally with pre-soldered electronics, it's often only a few easy spots to solder, and for that you caby Nudel - General
SydneyDesigner Wrote: > Why is there so little about moving-Z-platform > designs in the Reprap Forums? (Moving-Y-platform > Mendel designs seem to dominate.) Because most of us have Mendel-style bots with a triangular frame, that doesn't lend itself well to a moving z-bed upgrade? I'd also say with a moving y-bed you can make a smaller bot since you let the bed move outside of the botsby Nudel - General
Both The RepRapPro Mendel (Prusa) and Makergear Prusa is sold by honest members of the RepRap community, and the Prusa is a solid design used by thousands of people as their main printer. Can't go wrong with that, if you can afford the little higher price tag on a complete kit versus self sourcing. Don't go with a prebuilt kit, you'll never learn how to calibrate, upgrade and fix your bot properby Nudel - General
Don't use ReplicatorG, use Pronterface! Scroll down for installation instruction and a simple "just-works" pre-compiled version. You also need to generate gcode, and Slic3r is a easy to use and fast slicer.by Nudel - General
In Slic3r 0.8.2 you find it in "Print Settings" - "Generate support material". Last time I tried (several versions ago) it was still quite experimental, and to quote the changelog (much work is still needed on support material), so don't expect too much. Personally I design my parts to be printable without support, or add support struts manually in difficult cases. Still, for some parts generateby Nudel - General
Aww, that picture was like a trip down memory lane! I still have my belt splitter and bed-height-spacer-31mm in a drawer somewhere. ^_^by Nudel - General
My choice of tool to modify STL meshes, is the excellent free mesh editor Wings 3D. If the triangle mesh is very dense or have a lot of errors in it, you might have to run it through netfabb basic and fix it first. But yes, having the source file is best, and even a format that allows multiple edged faces is better than STL.by Nudel - General
CSG operations on a stl mesh this dense, and with all the weird triangles at the bottom, will always be - if possible at all - a headache. I advise you use a mesh modeller (my tool of choice is the excellent and fast Wings 3D, but I would assume Blender can do the same) and make hole manually. In Wings it's quite simple: Select faces where you want hole Press delete to make one big face (If onby Nudel - General
I have a roll of white PLA with the same issue, it spits and blobs a lot, printing uneven lines. Leaving it in an airtight container with a moisture absorbing egg for 6 months made it a lot better, though still not perfect.by Nudel - General
I vote for "Idol Brim".by Nudel - General
Yeah, there are a few, like this one. You can find more if you dig a bit in the forum. If I remember correctly there were some problems with noise, backlash and lifespan. I believe cable or a rack and pinion solution is a better direction to research if you want to get away from belts.by Nudel - General
Wohooo! Drama! Jokes aside, your printer does looks great, LED lights are always cool. But I'd like to hear your counterpoints as to why having acrylic/wooden triangles does anything to battle the main grief with the Mendel frame, namely x-wobble at high speed? I can't see how your design adds anything to improve Prusa i2, apart from the 10 minutes it takes to assemble the side triangles. I'm nby Nudel - General
The next big thing (for me) is going to be ethernet connection and true standalone printers. Think about it, no more USB drivers or communication errors, no more stopped prints due to computer crashes, no more swapping SD cards back and forth, no more overpowered desktop computer running 24/7 to control the printer. Just connect to your printer through a browser, upload the file to print and moby Nudel - General
Do you have a window open or airflow from a nearby A/C or something? Try making a simple "heated" chamber and protect your build area. Cardboard or even paper works fine to test it. You could even just put down a big cardboard box over the entire printer, just take care it doesn't get too hot.by Nudel - General
Are you using the latest version of slic3r, with a config file tweaked for your machine? Try doing a fresh export of the model from the openscad source. (With the latest openscad version of course). Try running it throughby Nudel - General
I'm assuming you're printing on a glass plate? Try taking it off and clean it thoroughly using dish washing soap (I like to rinse it off with vinegar as well). I do so when the adhesion starts to deteriorate due to fingerprints and PLA buildup. Also, an IR temp gauge is not a very accurate method to measure a glass plate, as the IR rays bounce off the reflective surface.by Nudel - General
You could also check out Wallace for ideas. It being OpenSCAD could also make it easier to modify, depending on your software preference.by Nudel - General
While outside dimensions are spot on, holes do tend to shrink. I use the values from metric.scad from the prusa git. Where m3=3.6mm m4=4.5mm and m8=9mm. If you ream the holes, remember to add another perimeter or two when slicing, so you avoid breaking the walls.by Nudel - General
I've used both dibond and laminated (mainly mdf) floor boarding with great success. I suggest you ditch springs and level the bed using washers as shims.by Nudel - General
I get by with only step 5), and no tightening or adjustments. Just make sure you cut it at a steep angle, and in the right direction so it feeds easily through the hobbed bolt and cold end. I do this with 90% reliability, and can do it while printing.by Nudel - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Do you have any newer video of it printing? > > There are some clips in the Indiegogo campaign > video and we will film more very soon. Ah, flash was stopped so I didn't see it. Very nice!by Nudel - General
Excellent stuff! I really like the concept of being able to print the whole body, how much do the body weigh? Is it economically feasible to print if if you have the tools to hand cut the frame from wood or acrylic yourself? I also really like the daisy chain idea, looking forward to see more of that. Does it use any special hardware, or is it mostly m8 rods and lm8uu bearings? Do you have anyby Nudel - General