More pictures might help. A full-view shot of the printer, and maybe a couple of more direct pictures of your Z-guides, lead screws (and how they are mounted on the ends).by obelisk79 - Printing
If the flatness is happening at equal and opposite parts of the circle it could be an issue of flex in your belting system. I ran into a similar issue with custom designed pulley mounts in my printer, they didn't have enough rigidity so when the belts would change direction I would get deformities in my prints that most notably presented themselves when printing circles. I'm not sure if that is tby obelisk79 - Printing
QuoteSee [3dprinthuset.dk]. Powered by Duet electronics of course QuoteDisclosure: I have a financial interest in sales of the Panel Due, Mini IR height sensor, and Duet WiFi/Duet Ethernet. ^Just keep in mind above quote. If it wasn't 'powered by Duet, he wouldn't have piped up. Ok, shameless plugs aside... Trakyan, I don't think a pump would be effective either, however, what I suggested wouldby obelisk79 - General New Machines Topics
splicing of belts is also possible, however it's not ideal and I tried several methods before I found one that seemed to actually stand up to regular use in my printer.by obelisk79 - General
Nothing will protect you from chinese copies. However, unless your board gets very popular, they are unlikely to clone this.by obelisk79 - Developers
I agree with the hangprinter configuration being a more economical approach for a construction printer. The more difficult conundrum as Trakyan already stated would be controlling the deposit of concrete. It would 100% have to be a custom solution. I think concrete in a gravity fed hopper configuration may be a smart approach, perhaps with some kind of augur to feed it through the equivalent ofby obelisk79 - General New Machines Topics
Well this is very interesting! Can't wait to follow your progress.by obelisk79 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotethe_digital_dentist That looks pretty good! Thanks, I've been waiting to hear your opinion/thoughts on my printer. You have much more knowledge of mechanical design than I do.by obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
Well, smaller scale so the minor artifacts are slightly more noticeable but I think this turned out quite well.by obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
I've just about eliminated all variations on my z axis now. I'm going through and testing the limits of layer height now. Yesterday I printed this octopus sliced at 50% scale and 0.05mm layer height. Currently I'm printing again this time model scaled to 25% and 0.025mmby obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
There are people who have built snappys, they are cool and functional but have more limitations compared to metal framed printers I'm going to build a mpcnc later this year myself.by obelisk79 - General
Honestly this is a very subjective question. I would find the kinematic style you are most interested in building. -Core-XY -Delta -Prusa i3 style -Ultimaker -etc.... Then find plans that match/meet your requirements/expectation/hopes Core-XY printers tend to be physically larger compared to their build volume.than what you may be looking for. Here are links to some iby obelisk79 - General
I've tried KissSlicer, S3D, Slic3r and Cura. I keep going back to Cura. The latest versions (3.4 series) have stepped things up in terms of overall quality of prints for me. Including excellent support generation. I've had the opposite experience from Arnold. I prefer the Cura interface and had terrible experiences with Slic3r being slow and interface being rather dated and clunky.by obelisk79 - Printing
Can you post some pictures of the key parts of your CoreXY mechanics? Motors, belt mounts, carriage, idlers etc...by obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
A parent doesn't mean you can't make your own design and use it though. Just means you can't produce and sell it for others.by obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
Quotegmedlicott Forgot to ask, what is the build volume for your printer? It looks around 1ft cube? 320x300x300mm-ish I have more volume I can reclaim, Last night I was considering the possibility of routing the belts on the exterior of the extrusions, but I'm not convinced I would like the result of separating the belts along the z-axis anymore than they already are. There are still many otheby obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
I have contemplated ball screws or larger lead screws if I do go for a three lead screw supported bed. I'm thinking 12mmby obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
Wouldn't removing that upper bearing induce wobble?by obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
I think I'm just going to add a third leadscrew to the z-belt loop and that should give me adequate stability to eliminate all z-wobble, then I can eliminate the 2020 z-guide. Thoughts?by obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
Perhaps this would have been better placed in the marlin specific sub-forum.by obelisk79 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I did have excessive z wobble at first using just the lead screws, I later added a better guide zwobble is minimal but not completely eliminated.by obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
An example print I finished last night.by obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
Sharing some photos of my WIP build. I've been able to get pretty reliable quality out of design so far but there are still a few quirks left to work through along with a few part design improvements I am contemplating. Please feel free to critique. I could use the constructive criticism.by obelisk79 - CoreXY Machines
garage, closet or under the bedby obelisk79 - General
Perhaps try following these instructions and see if it helps get your settings locked in?by obelisk79 - Printing
Generally speaking your dimensions are off by enough I'd be concerned. I still think either you've got your filament diameter setting wrong, or your e-steps are miscalibrated. You shouldn't have to reduce your flow rate by 70%by obelisk79 - Printing
I guess you can try going to an extreme, like set your extrusion modifier to 50% and check the results. You definitely have a strange issue.by obelisk79 - Printing
Have you tried slicing and printing with a filament diameter of 1.75 as advertised and observed the result yet? Also what kind of caliper are you using, perhaps you could take a picture of it, maybe a picture of how you took the filament diameter measurement? If you incorrectly measure the filament at 1.65 and it is indeed 1.75 that could very well explain the over-extrusion as your printer wouldby obelisk79 - Printing
You could always try to print with a nozzle height offset, or change your nozzle/height adjustment to provide just enough bed adhesion for your print. How much 'squash' do you notice at the print/bed interface on completed prints? is there normally a bit of a lip you can feel around the edges?by obelisk79 - Reprappers