That's a tall order. I doubt you will get many taker on this post the way it's worded. Try these suggestions 0. If you bought your kit from a company, see what support is available there. (LOL. Sorry, this is just a lame attempt a humor 1. Be specific in describing your problem. 2. Limit your post to addressing a single problem. Start a new post for each issue you need to address. 3. Prby jcabrer - General
Toalla Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi, > > I'm quite new at this 3D printers world but I'm > starting a project where I'll try to develop my > won 3D printer arduino based. Welcome to RepRap! > > I've been doing lots of research, reading articles > and watching lots of videos, but most of the > information refers to already-builtby jcabrer - General
Adjust your slicer settings so that you get 0.7mm wall thickness for 0.4mm layer height. It could be that you have too high a value in the filament thickness setting. Not familiar with Slic3r enough to tell you where that is.by jcabrer - General
(Fix your Subject line. Should be Sanguinololu) In your post above, you failed to mention one essential bit, and that is the firmware. Did you install firmware onto the Sanguinololu?by jcabrer - General
Since both Marlin and Repetier firmware makes use of the EEPROM to store settings, it is possible that the EEPROM is cluttered with leftovers from Marlin. re-Compile the firware with EEPROM use disabled, and upload. Then re-enable it, and upload again. I think this should wipe the EEPROM, and give default values.by jcabrer - Repetier
It is very likely that your firmware is still defaulting to 250000 Baud, because once you program the controller with Repetier firmware for the first time, changes like baud rate can only be made through firmware. Since you have to be able to connect to the controller to make the change, you need a workaround. There are two options: 1. If you have access to a Windows machine, you can run Repeby jcabrer - Repetier
Let's isolate the problem. There are too many variables on the Rostock, and you don't need to fiddle with any of them if they are not the culprit. First, put all of your firmware settings to their ideal values. These are what "should be right" if things were perfect. Second, download and print the calibration target I put up just for you. I don't have a delta, so you will need to feel your wby jcabrer - Repetier
Which operating system on you computer platform? Which electronics on your printer?by jcabrer - Repetier
Home is where the heart is. Troubleshooting a homing problem can be tricky. Here are alist of things that could have gone wrong. 1. One or more axes were built backwards (I've seen this twice already). 2. The end stop is installed at the wrong end of the axis. 3. The stepper motor wires are in reverse order. If you have reverseable connectors on the electronics, you can just flip the conby jcabrer - General
The most important feature in the hotend is the distance between your heat source, and the filament inside the melt chamber. This means you need a really thin wall. If you want to research this kind of thing, you would need to look at articles describing how heat travels through metals. Thermodynamics, and all that. Another thing to consider is that with a single heater, the melt is not veryby jcabrer - General
Most likely that the arduino has a blown input, if you are getting 0 on the read. There was probably a short at some point during the initial build. Most firmware won't even let you turn on D10 without a valid temperature reading. 0 is not valid.by jcabrer - General
It would be helpful to know which hot end design your machine uses. The filament variation could be a problem, especially if you are not using springs on your extruder idler. If you are having to push the filament through, there are two posibilities. You either need to cool your hotend insulator area with a fan (PLA), or you have a partial clog at the nozzle tip (less likely).by jcabrer - General
Your problem is more likely the power supply than the bed, unless you have a short on the RAMPS.by jcabrer - General
I used the Greg's Wade for a long time, but could never quite get them to print with full satisfaction. Now I use a variant called UniXwade, or UniX Wade. It's on thingiverse. somewhere.by jcabrer - General
You did not mention which firmware and electronics combination you are using. 280 Deg. C can damage you hot end insulator if it is PEEK.by jcabrer - General
I'm pretty sure printing with 1.75mm filament in a J-Head is considered experimental at this time. The bowden extruder adds another layer of possible issues. If it is possible to push filament directly into the hot end with the bowden cable removed, compare the ammount of force required. This may give some indication as to how much additional force is being required simply to push through theby jcabrer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
In my bolts, I use hobbing that looks more like Camiel's hobbed shaft in the linked article. I don't cut a valley into the bolt, just hobb on the surface of the shaft, abuout 6mm wide.by jcabrer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
If you intend to print in plastic, say ABS, everything needs to scale up. The melt chamber will need to be quite large, in order to melt at a useful rate. The filament (assuming) will need to be wide. Might have a look at plastic welding systems for inspiration.by jcabrer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Six of one, half dozen of the other. I guess it depends what part of the world you live in, but power outages are not a big enough concern, IMO, to warrant such a solution. That's not to say that it is not entierly without merit. Being able to drive a printer from a portable power source would definately find many uses. UPSes don't typically make use of the battery when AC power is supplied.by jcabrer - General
I've been seeing the avrdude: stk500_getsync() error in several sanguinololu boards that I have been testing this week. Three of them have the 644P, and one of them has the 1284P. In the case of the 1284P, I found that the Boards.txt file that you get from sanguino.cc has incorrect fuse bit values. I don;t know a thing about fuse bits, but I got new values from and burned a fresh bootloader uby jcabrer - Sanguino(lolu)
My initial testing finds that if you are using an LCD display, there is a potential for discrepancies between what the host displays, and what the LCD displays. Examples 1. If you disconnect the bed thermistor, the LCD displays that E1: and B: are both def 0°C. The host give correct readings on the Extruder, and ~50°C on the bed. Additionally, the log reports that the extruder is working, andby jcabrer - Repetier
I've had two reports this week of broken thermistor wires leading to hot end meltdowns. From what I see in the firmware, a negative reading should cause the hot end to switch off. Has anyone tested this recently? I'm going to set up some test scenarios this week end. I'll post back here with the results.by jcabrer - Repetier
You're going to need to make a few modifications to the boards file ./hardware/sanguino/Boards.txt Add the following at the bottom ############################################################## atmega1284p-pu.name=Sanguino W/ ATmega1284p 20mhz atmega1284p-pu.upload.protocol=stk500 atmega1284p-pu.upload.maximum_size=131072 atmega1284p-pu.upload.speed=57600 atmega1284p-pu.bootloader.low_fuseby jcabrer - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Before drifting off to the second problem, which admittedly needs to be taken care of first, let's revisit the reason your other part prints so poorly. It is the design that is to blame, if blame isn't too strong a word. You see, those ribs have a lot going against them when you consider them on a layer by layer basis. 1. They are isolated from each other. This means your extruder has to stoby jcabrer - General
I'm trying to expand my firmware testing regimen to include multiple electronics, operating systems, and Arduino IDE versions, and so I'm starting to find little things here and there that don't look right. In the Boards folder that is included with the firmware, contents are postfixed with 1.0+ and pre 1.0, and this is used to indicate that the contents of those folders are intended for Arduinoby jcabrer - Repetier
@repetier: Are you recommending 115200 for new versions going forward, or is it pretty much one of those things that if it works, it works? When I first tried your firmware, I thought 250000 was way too fast. At the time, I had been running Marlin and Sprinter at 115200. Now I think "Wow, 115200 is soooo slooow".by jcabrer - Repetier
It might be an EEPROM related problem, since I have had earlier versions of the firmware installed. So far, I have only tried on an AzteegX3. I will see if this is hardware specific once I get a chance to try on RAMPS 1.3, and Sanguinololu.by jcabrer - Repetier
I would hate to see OPS go. It works beautifully in 0.71. I much prefer the functionality be left in hardware, rather than the slicer.by jcabrer - Repetier
Just a quick heads up on Host v0.85b, I'm getting a crash at 300x multiplier speed. It may not even be speed related, but I need to get to work, so I'll fill in deatils later if there is a need.by jcabrer - Repetier