The stepper motors needs 12v (even if they are 5v steppers) , so you need to supply 12v to the 12v 5amp plug, if you want a heated bed then you provide 12v to the 12v 11amp plugs The mega also gets power 12v from the 12v 5amp plug as the steppers. You do not put anything in the DC jack. ieby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
Remove the Y belt, is the motor still stuck? Manually try and move the bed with the belt off does it move or is it physically jammed?by Dust - Reprappers
You haven’t homed the axis. so the printer doesn’t know where it isby Dust - Firmware - mainstream and related support
mks is the company other companies that clone this already clone board replace the mks with their own initials Any reprap board will do... the only issue is plugs will be different... MKS BASE V1.5 looks to be pin compatible.. These are ultra cheap boards, they don't have anything extra on them. no support for dual extruder.by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
wireless always = unreliable... (at any time something else could blanket out the frequencies used) They counter this with error correcting protocols and such But for something that has to be real time? madness. one retransmit error and the machine has driven the hot end threw the bed already.by Dust - General
If you manually move the Z axis up and it just stops at 140 it probably firmware eg in marlin it might have. #define Z_MAX_POS 140 I don’t think there is any gcode that can over ride this But you can test this theory home your Z axis, I presume it homes to Z0 move the Z up 20mm send a G92 Z0 (ie lie to the printer that its back at Z0) now tell it to go up 140. It should go physically all theby Dust - Look what I made!
Dont go near the Ramps FD (its meant to be just like a ramps but for due vs a mega2560) Certain manufacturers rushed it to production before it was ready, the v2 fixed all the issues, but no one is making them... (as far as I know) Main issue is if you turn it on with usb disconnected both hotend and heated bed are on and heat uncontrolled.by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
If its a damaged controller unless your good at electronics (ie can replace surface mount chips) Your only option is to replace it. Melzi 2.0 is a ok low end controller, and is still commonly available eg Even then check the plugs, they sometimes change them.. Then you will need to put firmware on it. If you are good at electronics. first thing is check voltages to the usb/serial converterby Dust - General
as long as the IO port is set to input and not output, its not an issue you can short them all you like. The endstop pins are set to be inputs So yes connect gnd and signal, Ie like all two wire mechanical endstops. You will need to enable internal pullups if you expect to see a high signal ever. (ie when switch is open)by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
re-arm has just completed its kick starter and is madly shipping out to all the backers. The site is I suspect he will be out of stock till all of those backers orders have been filled. These are smoothieware compatibles boards and only run smoothie firmware dc42 pushes duet wifi (he sells them, and screens and probes, or something like that.) It does come with nice quiet TMC2660s Stepperby Dust - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
CS is chip select... not used on standard stepper drivers. From the code #define X_CS_PIN 53 #define Y_CS_PIN 49 #define Z_CS_PIN 40 #define E0_CS_PIN 42 #define E1_CS_PIN 44 Non of these pins are used on a ramps board. (well they go to aux-2, and aux-3) not used normally. Looking further threw the code I see /** * Enable this for SilentStby Dust - Firmware - Marlin
there are silent step sticks. 1/256 micro stepping (this is internal only, externally they are still 1/16 so work 8 bit controllers, but runs quiet) There is also RRD Silencioso - 128 microstep driver - Pololu compatible, real micro stepping... needs a 32 bit controller for anything over 1/32 micro stepping. and im sure dc42 will chime in with his reply to everything about upgrading to hiby Dust - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Endstops leds are misleading... sure it may be triggered, but plugged into the wrong port or at teh wrong end for eg. check to see what the controller sees with M119 endstop statusby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
If you unplugged your stepper while the board was on, you have probably destroyed the stepper drivers. Yes you can turn the 4 pin stepper cables around, but only while the machine is off. Since its a ramps you can just replace the stepper modules. If you turned the steppers modules around... that is bad. This is not possable and will damage the driver modules. First thing I would do is remove aby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
Your school gives away printers? all I ever got was homework! It should show up as a serial port, if it comes up as unknown device you need a device driver (ch340 or ftdi, depends what your board has on it) If it really doesn’t show up at all.. then you have a damaged controllerby Dust - General
what does #define Z_MIN_POS say in your config?by Dust - Firmware - mainstream and related support
MKS installed a external pull up resistors So you have to remove the resistor and potentially disable the internal pullup in firmware also. "I am using the MKS Gen 1.4 as the main controller which I found that the inductive sensor was not working. I need to de-solder the on-board pullup resistor R20 to make it works." thats for z min pin anyways. From description of videoby Dust - Reprappers
and he never ever recommends smoothieboards, even though they are also good stable open source 32 bit controllers....by Dust - General
there is no feed back from the stepper drivers to the micro controller. you can completely remove the stepper drivers and the controller will not notice (or care) (presuming standard polulu type drivers and not something with modern SPI control) The issue is elsewhere. I suspect you spiked the mega, and it is seriously damaged and needs replaced. Could be anything, damaged ADC, dead timers...by Dust - Reprappers
check you homeing positions in your firmware ie #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS 200 #define Y_MAX_POS 200 #define Z_MAX_POS 200 this needs to match your hardware Start with the position of your endstops, eg it look like your X axis has a endstop on the right hand side. this is a max endstop, when you home X to max, how far away is it from X0, enteby Dust - General
You dont put soldered wires into those connectors, it forms a blob or weird shape and the contact only touches the bloby bits. Then all power flows threw the tiny contact area of the blob and heats up.by Dust - Controllers
You have set the temperature sensor type in your configuration.h ? ie #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED is set to something other than 0?by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
lets take a step back.. You seem to be grabbing old and weird firmwares from all over the planet. and trying to compile them, some are clearly very old from the errors. Get the latest marlin from the official source Get the version 1.6.13 of arduino from Start up the arduino program Navigate to sketch | Include Library | Manage libraries... In the filter your search at the top right entby Dust - Reprappers
The video is about making the display run outside of the marlin firmware. Which is interesting, as I have seem many request for this information. But this has no relation to you not being able to compile. But if you wish to try it. (you could at least see if your display works) start up arduino, select a u8glib demo graphics test Find the section "// setup u8g object, please remove commenby Dust - Reprappers
@Genie Looking good. Love the total lack of a pcbby Dust - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Steel tube frame printer Your probably more thinking steel pipe vs conduit... but may give you some ideas Only steel pipe system I know of is the slow (<3mm/s) , obsolete: This could probably be a lot better using cheap drive screws from china (was not available when these were being used) they used M8 threaded rod drive system.by Dust - General
Please clarify "When I try and move the "X" or "Y" direction, both X and Y move creating a 45° angle. So that if I try to home Y, X moves also." So what exactly are the motors doing. For a X+ move both steppers should turn counter clockwise, for a X- move both steppers should turn clockwise For a Y+ move the left stepper moves counter clockwise and the right stepper turns clockwise, Y- isby Dust - CoreXY Machines
"repetier is the most error free firmware out there right now" what a load of propaganda... Please provide hard facts and details to support this claimby Dust - General
with this pinout it should be possible to add in leds From a quick googling they are on the following, though one would hope you can redefine the pins. P1.18 led1 h/w PWM capable. can be free if leds_disable is set true in config. P1.19 led2 can be free if leds_disable is set true in config. P1.20 led3 h/w PWM capable. can be free if leds_disable is set true in config. P1.21 led4 h/by Dust - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Can be done. Use red and yellow wires if your want normally closed endstops. (I recommend this) you can use black and yellow wires if you really want normally open endstops NB the LED indicator on the endstop will not work now (don't worry about it, its not needed) NB with two wire endstops you need to enable pullups in firmware Ie find and enable #define ENDSTOPPULLUPS in configuration.hby Dust - RAMPS Electronics