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Guys? Gals? All of you are devs. This is development.
Re: SD adapter for sanguino - 13 years ago
Not quite parts but... This should work, if you wire up a cable between it and your SL I haven't tried this yet... is on my to try list.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reprap users in Auckland? - 13 years ago
A quick reply since I should be asleep.. 1) they aren't that cheap... you will have to solder the legs on. 2) turn you z motor cables around 180 degrees (or you can change the direction in firmware) but if the plugs let you, just turn them around. If they don't then you will need to re-flash your firmware. Either way its not a fault, just a setting. 3) get a new FET the part number is STPby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reprap users in Auckland? - 13 years ago
Hi Rui 1) on pronterface lower left is a "extrude" and "reverse" buttons. Next to reverse is a number, this is the speed of extrusion and reverse (myne says 300). Try lowering this to about 50. and see if it makes any difference 2) check your wiring to the thermistor, also check the resistance of the thermistor. You can also swap the heated build platform thermistor plugs with the hot end thby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reprap users in Auckland? - 13 years ago
This was posted 3 months ago... A SL, with a damaged CPU... see I never heard any more... so hopefully he is working now..by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Spare small gear from GHA extruder? - 14 years ago
I found ABS horrid... but I will be trying it again in a ventilated environment (one day) I'm not blinded with PLA, I know the material has limitations as does ABS. As for heated platform, it will still be required for larger pieces even with PLA. I print on warm glass, that surface turns out ultra smooth and shiny. (its 60 degrees C, so its not that dangerous, the extruder nozzle at 170 it isby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Spare small gear from GHA extruder? - 14 years ago
Actually I sent you two, just in case NZ post did their best to destroy it somehow! (as they seem to like to do) It is PLA though, you may prefer ABS and its bright orange!by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Spare small gear from GHA extruder? - 14 years ago
PM me your address and ill send one up.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Spare small gear from GHA extruder? - 14 years ago
Well I can send one from chch if you don't get a closer offerby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Spare small gear from GHA extruder? - 14 years ago
What city are you in?by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: help - just built it, cant connect - 14 years ago
Nah the next step is checking all the soldering and swapping parts... Not advisable when it has a warranty Send it back.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: help - just built it, cant connect - 14 years ago
I would like to hear what you find when you get this board back. If thats ok.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: help - just built it, cant connect - 14 years ago
The jumper looks to already be in place (almost directly in the center of your pictureby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: help - just built it, cant connect - 14 years ago
If number 2 gave the next line, It thinks it connected but then something went funny... M105 is Get_Extruder_Temperature. tI just asks the board to tell you the temperature of the extruder Well I would try flashing the firmware, and if that doesn't work contact your supplier To flash the Firmware isnt very hard, just follow the following. Download and unzip into your home directory Downlby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: help - just built it, cant connect - 14 years ago
A reprap is not a drive, it will not show up as a drive. Only as a serial port. Which it sounds like it is doing. So next load up pronterface and and select the serial port that appear / disappear when you plug the board in. Top left pull down, will probably be the highest com port number Set baud rate to 115200 as pictured. click on connect (shown as disconnect on this image as its alreby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: help - just built it, cant connect - 14 years ago
Its probably a Sanguinololu Board. It appears to the operating system as a serial port. Under windows you can see it appear and disappear from the device manager, under linux you can see it in the logs. You can find drivers hereby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reprappro Huxley, Y motor, heatbed + extruder issues - 14 years ago
After reading the above... I would say with 99% confidence you have blown the micro (the large black chip) You say it was working and the firmware is unlikely to be changed. The thermistors are also directly connected to the micro. I would say get a new micro at this stage, get one pre programmed eg (this may not be the only thing, but one thing at a time... FETs could also be gone, thus no hby Dust - General
Re: RAMPS 1.3 PCB's now avalable localy - 14 years ago
If your thinking about getting one of these, you better be quick, I've only got 5 left. Once they are gone, that it for me. On or if you want one.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reprappro Huxley, Y motor, heatbed + extruder issues - 14 years ago
Some fairly detailed answers and pointers 1 this points to the direction line to your stepper driver not toggling, either a dead stepper driver, or dead Microcontroller Pin. Or a bad joint between the two. Swap the X and Y Stepper cables (while it is off) Then try moving X back and forward in pronterface (this should move y back and forwards) If it moves fine try moving Y back and forth (x willby Dust - General
Re: Nema 17 for an extruder - cheapest local source? - 14 years ago
Have you tried molten media here in Christchurch? He has 2nd hand steppers quite often.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa connected and motors moving - 14 years ago
One thing I found the hard way is don't use Zink coated m8 on the Z, its to rough and produces to much friction. Use stainless steel m8 on Z if you can.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa connected and motors moving - 14 years ago
yes its thats it. It controls how much power the steppers get. Skipping is a good indication of not enough power. The standard way it to turn it all the way down (anti clockwise) then slowly turn it up (clockwise) till the moters move (they wont at first) then give it an extra 1/8 of a turn If its to high the stepper will get to warm, the stepper drivers could start screaming and or the steppby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa connected and motors moving - 14 years ago
If you motor wires have the black style connector, it can just be turn around 180 and plugged back in. (wont work with the white or red keyed connectors) NB only disconnect and reconnect motors with the power off, or you may blow a stepper driver Or you can set the inverse flag in the firmware. Z could be leveling, do you Z threaded rods stay straight or do they oscillate? Or it could be powby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Mendel Power supply for Sanguinololu - 14 years ago
I used to fix switch mode power supplies as part of my job. So now I refuse to open them unless I have toby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Nema 17 for an extruder - cheapest local source? - 14 years ago
Nope, your google-fu is fine. This is just how it is.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Help! Connecting Sanguinololu to computer/Print run - 14 years ago
Hi What OS? Does the LED light up when you plug the board into the USB? Python is a language interpreter, it is only needed to run python applications (such as pronterface) step 1) the hardware has to recognize the FTDI I suspect your running windows? Open up your device manager Look at the serial ports, plug in the Sanguinololu, does the LED turn on? Does the computer now show an additionby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Mendel Power supply for Sanguinololu - 14 years ago
My Sanguinololu look like this from the power connector The red power cable in a perfect world should really be yellow (for 12 volts) The red and black power cables lead back to a screw terminal and then to the Plug I mentioned. The plug also has the green and black shorted out. (the power on switch) NB there are two yellow and two black going from the plug to the screw terminal, neededby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Mendel Power supply for Sanguinololu - 14 years ago
You dont need to do all those mods, I strongly advise not opening up a power supply if you dont know what your doing. All I did was get a converter plug from my local pc shop to plug into the large connector, cut off the end you dont need and use the wires from that to a screw terminal and from there to the Prusa Then you just connect the power button line to ground and your done. Somethingby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Looking for a build Mentor - 14 years ago
Hi Derae Im in Christchurch, with almost 3 printer under my belt (and have printed many sets of plastics for many others) See for 'log' of how I did it. As for which printer, I always recommend a Prusa. Even if you really want something else, As the Prusa is the defacto standard, lots of people have them and there is lots of documentation and advise. Once you have built a prusa, you canby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Mendel Power supply for Sanguinololu - 14 years ago
6amp at 12volt is minimum for a reprap without Heated build platform (5amps is just for the Hot end) 17amp at 12volt is minimum for a reprap with a 12v PCB Heated build platform (11amps for the HBP) A standard PC power supply is what most of us use, or a 12volt only supply off of ebayby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group