QuoteChri Yes, you can download a modified skirt.py with brim feature here Chri That's top! Thank you Chri. I had done a search for "Brim" in the SF section but not found anything, never thought to search the entire forum for a SF plugin :-) . Lesson learned. Great stuff! Alanby Alzibiff - Skeinforge
Are there any settings In SF which will enable me to print what other slicers call a "brim"? I have a number of parts to print which have a relatively small surface area at Z=0 and would like to print what effectively would be a solid first layer which extends from the outside perimeter of my objects to something like 7 or 8mm in order to aid adhesion to the build plate. I have attempted to addby Alzibiff - Skeinforge
Sounds interesting Neil - would be good to see how you get on with this project. Keep us informed! Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Hello, I have done some searching on this forum but not found anything in the last 12 months or so to answer my question but has anybody used/tried Filaflex in a "standard" Mendel 90 which uses the Wade's block type extruder? I got a wee bit carried away at the last TCT show in Birmingham and bought a small spool of the stuff but have not yet tried it. The Recreus website suggests that some modiby Alzibiff - Mendel90
I'm no expert but can offer some advice nevertheless ...... Sort out one problem at a time but first of all ensure that your settings in terms of Z zero point and extrusion rate are correct. There are lots of posts and instructions around on how to ensure that your feed rate for the extruder should be set up. (The M90 manual which Nophead has distributed via GitHub is a good start: Extruder Calby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Quote3Design ...i don't use m mendel 90 anymore for 3D printing ... followed by Quote3Design ... i will print that out just for checking because it looks very handy Think you need another M90 kit or have you already got another 3D printer? Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
QuoteQuackingPlumsAm I right in understanding that you put the nozzle on the bed after a filament change and do the ooze-free wipe again? Presumably this can only work if you're not changing filaments at a height where dropping Z back to zero causes the x-carriage to strike the object on the bed? Yes and yes! As said, there IS some ooze even after the post-change bed wipe so there is a case forby Alzibiff - Mendel90
My start sequence for PLA starts the bed heater off at a target temperature which is 10C less than what I want it for my first layer. Once this temperature has been achieved, the bed is commanded to heat up to its final target temperature and only then is my extruder set to heat up. Very little time is wasted as the bed is heating while the nozzle is travelling down towards the print bed and I hby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Although this may not be relevant to your set up ...... I control my M90 via Octoprint which is running on a Raspberry Pi which means that I am able to use the M0 GCode in order to change filament mid-print. Nophead pointed me to this feature in Octoprint in his blogpost : (I also have a Panelolu2 panel attached). I insert the following GCode just before the Z height changes to where I want aby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Quotedanlad1631 Is anyone using T-glase filament with their Mendel90? Can you recommend any settings? Heat, speed, cooling etc? No .... But I've got some @Danlad1631 - Given the length of time since you asked (and got no response) can YOU offer any starting guidelines? Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
@bastard / @neildarlow - How did you guys actually get to find each other and meet up? I headed straight for the RepRap Community area (and kept returning) spending quite some time staring at the names on badges but as you will know, failed to make contact. Had conversations with SallyRapRap, the Locks and RichRap though ... which was nice! Hey ho! Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Booked my train for the 30th September and will arrive at the NEC around 11:30am. I will be there for 3hours or so - dictated by train timetables Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
I saw an advertisement on the TV last night for another one of those "Buy the first issue cheap then triple the price for everything which follows" magazines - the sort which "gives away" parts to make something over an unspecified number of weeks, (they also sell binders to keep every issue in pristine condition on your bookcase). In the past - and this always seems to start in January - I haveby Alzibiff - General
Quoteneildarlow ... the RepRap hierarchy. What's that then? Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
ROFL Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Quoteashleywebster ...Interestingly, a Wades block printed for me by William Frick ... I have to ask - who is William Frick? Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
I was assuming that you were printing PLA and not ABS which means that my response is unlikely to help My usual extrusion temperature for ABS filament is 245C - what are you using? Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Quote999dom999 .... Any idea what could be happening? I suspect that heat is rising from the hot end of the JHead and warming the filament towards the cold end of the JHead. This is likely to make it too soft for the extruder to push it through the JHead and instead, it starts to buckle. Are you ..... 1. Using self amalgamating tape around the heater block? 2. Using the latest version of the faby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Just looked at my Google profile and found that I cannot remove my birthday. I have changed it to a setting which says "Only you" which may avoid the same thing happening to other folk but if Mr. Nophead already has my birthday in his calendar ...... can't wait until the Xth/Xst/Xnd/Xrd of X this/next year .... if only to see what effect this Google policy has on me as an individual! :-) Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
The problem of PLA softening at the top end of the JHead is most likely to occur when the first layer print time of an object is relatively long compared to objects which do not give rise to this problem. The solution? Speed up the first layer, switch on the part cooling fan (the version with the hole to cool the top of the JHead) or provide JHead cooling by some other method. Of course, speediby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Unlike PLA, ABS does not take on a "rubbery" consistency as it cools down which makes getting the stuff out of the hot end using the same "cold pull" method as carried out for PLA is not completely successful. When moving back to PLA after printing with ABS, I have found that I need to flush all of the ABS out of the system first. I set my hot end to around 230C and then manually wind PLA throughby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Good job NeilDarlow! Thank you for the very detailed settings and methodology. Reducing the tendency of parts to warp by increasing layer height to 0.4mm - what I suspect is the absolute maximum - is interesting. Any ideas why this is? Anything to do with the reduced time to complete the print I wonder, compared to say 0.2mm? The extrusion temperature of 220C for ABS is 25C less than I have usby Alzibiff - Mendel90
QuoteAlzibiff I will have a go with this over the weekend as I want to print out another part cooling fan mount. I'll get back to let you know how I got on. Sorted! Thank you for the profile Neil - gave me the confidence to have a go printing at a 0.35mm layer height for the X carriage fan duct. I used your ABS0.4 Skeinforge profile as it was but with the layer height changed to 0.35mm. The fanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Quoteneildarlow Read the Technical details above regarding Filament Diameter oversizing (e.g. 2.96mm --> 3.015mm). Yes, I saw that and had to smile - RichGain employed a similar fudge factor when using Slic3r two or more years ago, (for an EMaker Huxley if I remember correctly). Did you spend a lot of time twiddling and experimenting with this setting as I would never have plucked the figureby Alzibiff - Mendel90
Looks really good Neil. Good work. Now...... can you share the SF profile please? Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
QuoteGarry Bartsch .... It seems to be obviously between the computer and printer somehow.... Not necessarily. It might be worth eliminating the USB connection entirely by printing directly from the SD card for a while. If the problem still arises, you have eliminated the USB connection from possible causes. If the problem goes away, THEN you can start to suspect the USB side of things. I had siby Alzibiff - Mendel90
QuoteRich K.I was actually looking to run the printer without having to connect to my home network - the idea being to make the printer more transportable and useable in case I want to take it somewhere WITHOUT wi-fi or other networking, and don't want to tie up my only "full-featured" computer. Which is where the Panelolu2 comes in! Adding the Pi as well gets you the best of both worlds IMHO!by Alzibiff - Mendel90
QuoteRich K. What add-ons will I need to get along with the basic R-PI to use it with the Melzi and P2? A USB cable to connect the RPi to the MELZI. You will also need some way of connecting the Pi to your home network - either an ethernet cable if you are going to hard wire it or a USB WiFi dongle. Quote Also, can I power the R-PI from the same power suppply as the Melzi and P2? I'm using a 6by Alzibiff - Mendel90
Very neat - are you going to publish the design? (Bit of a chore I know but I suspect that this will be of great interest especially as the winter draws in ..... in the northern hemisphere at least ). Thank you, Alanby Alzibiff - Mendel90
QuoteRich K. Now, can I use that particular firmware upgrade with my laptop, BEFORE I get a P2 or a R-PI? Or should I stick with Nophead's version until I am ready to upgrade the system? One of the changes which NeilDarlow has implemented in his version of the firmware is to enable the M90 to work with or without the P2 attached which was not the case with the T3DP3D firmware which, as describedby Alzibiff - Mendel90