As for casting, you can mix resin (2 part urethane or epoxy, avoid polyester) and cast it into a mold.by grumpenstein - General
I printed some feet and suspended the printer (I have the same kit). That made a huge difference. I printed some feet in TPU but you could just make plastic ones and put little furniture pads under them, either felt or rubber. I heard that putting the entire machine on a piece of low density foam helps too if it's on a resonant surface, but I haven't needed to do that.by grumpenstein - General
There is already flexible PLA sold by several companies. TPU round belting also works but it is very fickle to print and needs more experimentation/documentation. There is also a flexible filament I've seen on Thingiverse made by a European company, claiming up to 50mm/s print speed. Bet it's a modified TPU as well but who knows....by grumpenstein - General
PLA can be burnt out for lost wax casting, so this is a nonissue in my opinion.by grumpenstein - General
Your idea is interesting but I think it's more of a problem than a solution. How to manufacture an evenly 'striped' filament? Because of the way filament is extruded, it would have to be dyed perhaps? Much better to either improve upon dual extrusion methods and software, or concentrate on a color-mixing nozzle instead.by grumpenstein - General
> I wanted to try at a higher nozzle temperature, > but it's already at 230C. If I set it anything > higer than that, sometimes it goes over 235C, > which is the saftey celing temperature in my > setup, as a result of fluctuation and my printer > shuts down. In other words, higher temperature > isn't really an option. You can change your MAXTEMP in firmware. I put mine upby grumpenstein - General
"a work of art" Forbes..... ugh...by grumpenstein - General
What platform are you using? Windows? I use OS x and a lot of the support options are broken. Using Cura instead to do a lot of stuff when it requires supportby grumpenstein - General
appdev007 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The smaller the opening, the narrower the with of > plastic you can extrude. Less width means finer > horizontal resolution. Your extrusion width has to > be wider than your opening. I'm not sure this is a hard and fast rule. I've greatly reduced the percentage of my default extrusion widths and with much tweaby grumpenstein - Reprappers
Don't try to flatten the glass.....It will shatter and melt your floor, or break your cooktop. Get a picture frame or mirror from the dollar store and cut it to size.by grumpenstein - Reprappers
I like your PLA idea, I'd think it would kind of melt into it. Like if you printed a 2 or 3 layer raft with a lot of little holes for mechanical adhesion.....like perfboard.by grumpenstein - General
@williamsmpiper I don't know if polyurethane foams will burn out very cleanly. The combustion products will be ~disgusting~ however. If you were to go down this route you would achieve the best results by casting a plastic 3d print in a low density, closed cell 2 part foam. I can't imagine any accuracy printing foam above say 5mm. After all it expands pretty significantly. Unfortunately this neceby grumpenstein - General
Do you use Slic3r? There is that command to extrude extra "_mm" in the tab that controls retraction.by grumpenstein - General
Wow Petrus, that is a great result! The cylinders your machine was making during the build are for wiping ooze?by grumpenstein - General
Fair enough, I'll have to see if I can replicate the bug I had before.....by grumpenstein - Slic3r
@Karmavore With relatively few home extruders in the wild, locating and collaborating with other geographically convenient RepRappers to purchase bulk feedstock together might be the near term way to bring the price down. Probably difficult given the far flung nature of RepRap in general and home extrusion in particular.by grumpenstein - General
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No exact numbers. See > > I'd guess at least 200,000 printers in the wild, > if not twice that many. Thanks, fascinating...I would easily see 10 or 20 percent of my art/design school compatriots wanting a RepRap 5 years ago if the tech was where it is right now. Born too soon...by grumpenstein - General
NewPerfection Wrote: > > 500 units is nothing, considering how many RepRaps > and similar printers are out there. It'll take a > lot more than that to impact the price of > commercial filament. Do you of any numbers out there regarding how many RepRaps/home printers are in the wild? I'm assuming there's some fascinating survey data that I've missed but I would love to know.by grumpenstein - General
How do you get a print using the spiral vase setting to be two perimeters thick? I've had it happen a few times and i'm not sure if it's a bug or not. I'd like to be able to use this on command. You do get a "Z seam", but it is pretty much internal to the object.by grumpenstein - Slic3r
Try printing a gcode file that you sliced before this became a problem?by grumpenstein - General
@thejollygrimreaper What do you think those paste extruded 'diy materials' will be? I'd like to know where to concentrate my researchby grumpenstein - General
Just dealing with this problem right now, it seems almost like it's buffering or something! It's a model that takes me around 30 minutes to slice in Slic3r.......bizarre pauses, seems to speed up on the straight lines and fast moves. I'm going to try slicing it in something else.by grumpenstein - Slic3r
I wanted to just add to this topic, I have been printing with the Fenner Drives Eagle polyurethane round belt, 1/8 inch, clear. Not sure which shore hardness it is. Prints well for me at 15 mm/s, 210 degrees. Using blue tape for bed surface. The one problem is that ooze on the nozzle slowly 'burns off' and browns, occasionally blocking the orifice and causing it to back up below the hobbed bolt.by grumpenstein - Polymer Working Group
@Ian Johnson– Amazing video...To me it looks like a urethane resin or very dense foam.by grumpenstein - General
@jamedanielv It seems like that project is dead, or at least their website and forum are.by grumpenstein - General
@cozmicray- isn't that how Objet/Projet works? UV cure every layer? Throwing out a silly idea—what about using a paste extruder with a slow setting epoxy dough? It could be metered through a mixing chamber. Not sure how to balance slow set with quick removal from the build chamber though. Adding a post cure probably contradicts the Reprap ethos... I know this would be less precise than liquidby grumpenstein - General