If I felt strongly about it, I would not sell to the russian federation. This ban would not include citizens of the country of russia. I suffer enough discontent with being associated with the actions of my own government to force that same idea on other people in other countries. Seeing as the russian government isn't likely to be ordering hobbyist 3d printer kits, my russian boycott would effeby strantor - General
Quotegmh39 I think putting parts in an acetone vapor bath (for ABS) would give a similar affect as putting SLA parts in a UV oven. the layers would be able to "melt" together more thoroughly. Having a UV curable filament doesn't make much sense to me, granted im not a materials engineer either. But the UV is what bonds the resin into layers to begin with. So with a UV filament you would needby strantor - General
Assuming we all want the strongest parts possible In 3d printing, it seems we are limited to reprap-style extrusion, which is doomed to layer adhesion issues no matter how awesome of filament you choose (carbon fiber infused, nylon, PET, etc.) or SLA which is cost prohibitive and complicated. But what if we combined techniques for a middle of the road compromise? What if we made a filament that wby strantor - General
I'm trying to make a prosthetic hand, and I want it to be very strong. I have tried printing it in Nylon 645, T-glase, and ABS, and while I can get parts that are very strong in one direction, There is always a weak point where pressure is applied in an unsuitable vector because of layer direction. The parts are too complex to get every hole and every joint printed in the ideal direction. I haveby strantor - Polymer Working Group
How does the strength of prints made with makerjuice g compare with abs, nylon, et. a.? Do you get better layer adhesion with the laser-cured-together layers in prints than with the got-hot-and-(almost)-melted-together layers? Are these prints equally strong in all 3 axes, as a molded part would be?by strantor - General
I'm not familiar much with aluminum, but when I've forge welded steel together in the past, it required flux between the layers to adhere. Molten metal won't simply fuse to solid metal (at least not 100% of the time); both the deposited metal and the metal being deposited on, need to both be a little melty, and the conditions need to be right. Even if you could get it to adhere, Metal contracts wby strantor - General
I've ran my prusa i3 that fast before and it was unsettling. The thing was flopping all over and threatened to thrash itself to bits. Im sure I took a year off its life. The print quality was better than I expected for how much it was wobbling, but layer adhesion sucked. I need strong parts, and parts printed at that speed aren't. Maybe if you made a 3d printer out of a rigid cnc machine, you couby strantor - General
I just get it up to 240c, pull it out, put the new stuff in, and purge a hundred mm.by strantor - General
So, 6 days ago I sent two emails; one to Taulman and one to Proto pasta. I informed them about what I'm trying to do with the strength testing. My email to Taulman contained: (excerpt) Quote[...]And that's why I'm contacting you. If anybody knows how to print the strongest 3D prints with Taulamn polymers, it's Taulman. So, I'm asking you to print my .STL file and send me the prints so that I cby strantor - General
QuoteRobonz It did work but suffered from slippage. Stantor says that filament slippage is good. After a lot of experimenetation I would say its bad. You've got your peoples mixed up. I'm the guy who modified my hobbed bolt to include T-Rex teeth for zero slippage. ShadowRam is the one who came after, saying "slippage is good." That theory sounds silly to me also.by strantor - General
QuoteShadowRam Quoteaduy someone should try making a drive that uses two flat rubber belts. the belts would run like a tread mill and the filament would be in between the two sets of belts. sorry for the crude drawing. you could use four timing pulleys and two small continous timing belts. I was thinking of a three gear system to help WORD OF CAUTION!!!! Filament slippage is good. It savesby strantor - General
QuoteLoboCNC One other idea is to press the filament into a v-groove in the drive roller - like is done with a V-belt. This will effectively increase the friction and maybe reduce deformation. Thats what I did. Works great. Ohioplastics, you have a lathe, right? You can do this. Details here Works great. I have not experienced any slippage at all, with any filament, since performing thisby strantor - General
I have created a thread where I am posting test results, including T-glase. Might be of interest.by strantor - General
I have created another thread to post my test results, as promised. I did not get around to testing all the things I talked about, but I will, in time.by strantor - General
another nother nother Placeholder for future test resultsby strantor - General
another nother Placeholder for future test resultsby strantor - General
another Placeholder for future test resultsby strantor - General
Placeholder for future test resultsby strantor - General
Q: Who? A: For now, just me, Strantor, but I cordially invite you all to jump in and give it a shot. Q: What? A: Refer to title Q: Why? A: see thread: Why does it seem few care about print strength and how to compare it? Q: How? A: See video: A Method for Strength Testing 3D Printed Parts I'm uploading my files, so you don't have to ask. If you're scared of the boogeyman that lurks in XLS and Iby strantor - General
I've read so many complaints now of ABS smell, I have to ask... What are you guys talking about? I've been printing ABS for weeks now and haven't smelled a thing. I got it (unlabeled) from the guy who sold me the printer and after reading all these smell complaints I started to wonder if maybe it wasn't ABS. But it welds with acetone like nobody's business, so I figure it's gotta be ABS. When I pby strantor - General
So I got the t-glase in and started printing with the last slicer config I used. 100mm/s. It was coming out white, not sticking, fail. So I took your advice and slowed down to 25mm/s. It seemed like no plastic was coming out. You know, how when ABS is jammed and you can tell that it's just doodling in the hairspray and not actually printing? Well, that's what it looked like. I cancelled my print,by strantor - General
I think that people within a group, surround themselves with aspects of that group, and their lives become ingrained in that group, which leads them to believe that that group is much larger and more important than it really is. I also am interested in electronics, robotics, and 3d printing, and also machining. I am not a degreed, professional engineer, but I have designed and sold electronic deby strantor - General
QuoteHazer After reading this, let me give a different perspective. [...] after seeing his Ebay stuff I can get where he is coming from. He sells a slightly different J-head for $25, or $17 as a kit. Most J-heads are $30-$60 on Ebay. I can get why he is passionate about pricing. And he is doing something about it. So before everyone keeps flaming him tirelessly, take a look at what he is trying tby strantor - General
Quotekitkatkurl i'm sorry but .. seriously? i'm so offended by this i had to register and reply, have you got any grip at all on the reality of producing anything you intend to sell? oh hang on you are selling somthing, i clicked the ebay link in your signature and was greeted by hotend stuff you are selling on ebay Holy carp, how did I miss that? Well, I can say one thing; I've never advertiby strantor - General
Maybe if I knew exactly what product you were talking about, I would understand your point. But without that information, it seems you're completely disregarding operating costs. Sitting in front of a 3D printer at the dinner table for too long might disillusion one to what goes on in a manufacturing and/or a business environment. For example if you weighed a model airplane engine block, you'd fiby strantor - General
do you have the motors in series or parallel?by strantor - General
QuoteA2 The faceted sides of the Allen wrench create stress risers, best to use a round steel rod for consistent readings. Good point. I will use a round bar henceforth. QuoteA2 I'm not able to see how you are mounting the Allen wrench to evenly distribute the tensile load. But side loading will generate poor test results. Understood, this the purpose of the "wire halo" on top to evenly distribuby strantor - General
QuoteAntslake Oh! one very important tip, because if you are half witted like me, you might miss it. The spools come with some netting on them....DO NOT TAKE OFF THE netting. It will quickly unravel, and you will have a mess. The filament is meant to feed out from under the netting. Same thing with the nylon spools. Make sure your spring tension for your idler is good and tight, and that your extby strantor - General
QuoteRalf I had the steel laying around from another project, so it was only the load cell and an instrumentation amplifier (INA125P) that I had to buy, so that was ~40€ in total. Of course it is completely undocumented but if there is any interest, that wouldn't be too dificult. It is lacking deflection measuring, but a potientiometer, a string and some more code, should be able to do that. Aby strantor - General
Thanks for the review and the info. My T-glase should be here this week. By the weekend I hope to have some strength test numbers to post up. I will take your advice in printing it.by strantor - General