If anyone has a triple rail, and some delrin V wheels, single and/or double, check if the fit with the channels of the rails. I'm not sure the gap between the double V peaks are wide enough, but if they are, maybe one double at mid-center can have each V sitting in the V's of the rails. That plus single V's in the back, flush against the edge walls, should provide adequate lateral support.by jobzombi - Smart_Rap
I was actually searching for something like this. I have a Smartrap, but it currently uses all plastic parts and fishing line for the X/Y axis. Precision has never been its strong point and as such I have had to use slow speeds. Also, because of the plastic design, I can't have a higher Z dimension as the higher it goes, the greater the torque on the mount for the Z rods. What I am thinking of,by jobzombi - Smart_Rap
I checked online and here in the forums and other than just statements of possibly not being a good idea no real evidence was given against or for it. I know tumblers seem to be the norm, but running one for over 24 hours seems ludicrous to me. I was thinking of using a low CFM spot blaster, with either super fine sand or soda. Never used soda for "sanding" but then again who does, since a lotby jobzombi - General
Since I really want to get back to printing, I bought some springs from McMaster. Thread closed.by jobzombi - For Sale
OD (in) 0.210 5.334mm ID (in) 0.158 4.0132mm Free Length (in) 0.880 22.352mm Rate (lbs/in) 8.900 Sugg. Max Defl. (in) 0.350 Sugg. Max Load (lbs) 3.100 Solid Length (in) 0.310 7.874mm Wire Dia. (in) 0.026 Total Coils 12.000 Material Stainless Ends Closedby jobzombi - For Sale
I always thought layer heights should be less than 80% of nozzle diameter? In my case, .35 nozzle, no larger than .28mm. I'll give this a try though and play with .28mm and .35mm.by jobzombi - General
I checked the Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide and either there was nothing, or it was worded in a way that made it hard for me to find the same problem. It seems to happen with my white filament and not my black filament. I uploaded this picture showing the issue in various conditions. Starting from the blue (bare) section, going counter-clockwise, I have the first layer at .2mm 180Celby jobzombi - General
I checked around, but aside from people having issues getting the thermistor and the bed to work, I'm having issue finding help getting only one to work, w/o the other. I've set #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0. I commented out the min and the max temps (also tried it without commenting them out). Made sure it is configured for the right pin...#define HEATER_BED_PIN 8 // BED, but still nothing.by jobzombi - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I found the fix for my problem....I'm an idiot. I forgot that it was a new ramps set....so I had to increase the current on the pololu. It dawn on me when I was going through my kit and I found the old RAMPS kit. Good thing I kept that too, because tinkering with the shield I shorted it so I pulled out a spare pololu from the old kit. I'm assuming this was what was meant with tension, as it notby jobzombi - General
It is lined with PTFE. The fan does cool the extruded filament, but I don't think it does it on purpose as the majority of the cooling is felt on the grills of the hotend. I do know that there are some different mounts on thingiverse for the fan, but to print something out I'd have to get it to work first...catch 22. I will be checking on the stepper itself. I haven't bothered checking the tempby jobzombi - General
Not sure what you mean? I increased the temp. The thermistor is not in that normal cavity the J-Head has, I just have it pushed up close to the copper, covered in the orange film tape a few times and then covered by a fiberglass/silicone sleeve. I might have to look into setting the thermistor in the firmware though just to be safe, but as of now, I've gone up to 265 and it still clicks, but wheby jobzombi - General
I searched around, but could not find anything specific. I have a Nema 17 with an MK7 gear to feed the filament. Only when printing, read hot extruding, it will skip and make awful clicking sounds. I changed the steps in the firmware so 10mm feeds 10mm. It runs fine through the entire length of the bowden tube and never has any issues when retracting. Not sure if there are setting in Slic3r oby jobzombi - General
I got the replacement parts off ebay... ... sold by makercoast, which they show here... ... though the base plate does not have the opening showing in that version of the bowden start holder. The holder looks more like this one... ...and as the listing on ebay states...mix and match of parts. They are more or less the same as the one I got gifted to me except that the new ones have the servoby jobzombi - Reprappers
Lack of sleep I guess...I just realized that duh M5 will be precisely 5mm OD so it will merely slide through; ie I need M6. My mistake. Madmike8, if you are in the states, I am more than happy to buy em from you. Like I said before, the sites that have them charge 2-3 times more than the item itself to ship it to the USA. Hopefully I'll get printing soon again.by jobzombi - Reprappers
It is the smartrap that I have...this is my build instructions for the model...please note that someone gave this model to me and he had some modifications that went out the window when I had to get new plastic pieces: Reprappro calls it the "bowden tube start". I'm really considering this one: since the end that the brass fitting slides through is 5mm, so the M5 end could fit nicely thrby jobzombi - Reprappers
I also would not mind making it. The file that was uploaded here is helpful. If only I can find some brass tubing/piping with 2mm ID. The hole the fitting goes through is 5mm (so 5mm OD), the clip has an opening of 3.35mm, so I'll create the recess by taking out about .825 on each side and then put a 4mm tap on one end. Tool steel tap should make easy time for tapping brass.by jobzombi - Reprappers
Anyone know where I can get this locally; USA? The pneumo kind doesn't fit in my model; smartrap. The base of the smartrap has a small diameter hole to pass the bowden start brass fitting and then lock it in place with a clip. The pneumo push fitting is too wide. I can use a 1/4" nut but I'd have to either make some modifications to the base, cut some plastic to fit the ptfe tube through thby jobzombi - Reprappers
The only place I can seem to find these brass fittings is Emakershop: Anyone know if this is something they custom make out stock themselves or if it has a more "generic" name to make it easier for me to find elsewhere. Obviously finding someone carrying it in the states would benefit me in terms of shipping times. A few reprap I have looked at build manuals use these so why this is the onlby jobzombi - Reprappers
Been trying to grasp some things in my process of learning more about printing. I wanted to verify the nozzle size of my hotend by extruding at the lowest temperature possible. Higher temperatures will pull on the extruded length as it comes out and thin it, so I picked the lowest temperature my extruder motor could handle: 136C. Now up to around 200-210C, the extruded PLA comes out with a nicby jobzombi - Polymer Working Group
Was doing a 7 hour print...happens when printing so damn slow...and after like 2 hours I stopped by to look at it. Head moves, but no filament was coming out. I'm guessing at some point the extruder motor tried to move some filament, couldn't so it just ground the filament and lost contact with the filament as a whole. Gonna check the motor. It was fine before, but not too sure what could be wroby jobzombi - Printing
The skirt/brim comes out fine, but then the first layer perimeter comes out all globlike. I know it can be temperature too low (did my research) but at 200C for PLA, I'm sure it is not too low. It is a Smartrap so I started out with the main setting they have on github; infill speed 45 and first layer speed 35%. First print it started coming out the same, so I stopped it and dropped the speedsby jobzombi - Printing
Note to others...not sure if it was just me, but Installing Repetier AS WELL as Cura (for testing) f!@#ed everything up. I couldn't find the directories I would need to delete or reinstall after I uninstalled Cura, RH was still not working right. I reflashed my laptop and now I'm all good. I like reflashing every 6 months, but I was forced to do it early this time. Oh well. Back to printing.by jobzombi - Repetier
Program was good on win7 for some time. I decided to play around with it. I was trying so configuring of skeinforge (comes with the host download along with slic3r) and I also installed Cura. I download pypy (didn't realize it came with Rep-host.) and ran the exe. Went back to repetier's slicer manager and for skeinforge I point the directories to where they had to point to (not that I needed toby jobzombi - Repetier
I just solved this myself....Just because I like the install package that comes from Repetier. In export tab you want to have export enabled, Add export suffix disabled and take out whatever is in the file extension field. Repetier-host is looking for "composition." not "composition.gcode". It understands that it is gcode, so when I slice the stl it reads the extensionless file just fine.by jobzombi - Repetier
Been trying to set this up using the jy-mcu module.It is V1.06 5V (not 3.3). I tried the BT_magic program in the wiki and it goes through the baud rates but then says NO for all of them. It tells me error at the bottom, to fix issue and then retry. Also tried the software serial version but that gives me a complication error that the serial2 was already set. I'm thus trying to do it the manualby jobzombi - RAMPS Electronics
Not sure if anyone else has tried this, but I first tried it out of impatience, didn't want to wait for bed to cool, but it seems to work pretty much all the time. I found a can of Freeze Off that I guess no longer had tips and someone didn't feel like wasting the contents in the can. I took the cap off and exposed this nipple for release. I guess it would work with compressed air too or a canby jobzombi - General
I have a solidoodle sd3 extruder. I will give it a try with the 3.7mm retraction. Thanks. I'm already at 195C with PLA. I'll probably try a little lower temp if retraction doesn't do much.by jobzombi - Slic3r
I printed this item: to help set some configurations in slic3r to get better quality prints. I am using a slightly modified version of the smartrap ini on github, with some alterations to the bed dimensions and some start and end gcode. Other than that, the print comes out very good, but with A LOT of what I call spider webbing between jump points. Not sure what setting(s) to tweak to reducby jobzombi - Slic3r
Mine has aluminum bed with etched pcb heater, held by bulldog clips. The heater is 6x8 so it fits the x axis perfectly and is short on the Y. I drilled 7/32" holes for the bed mount, kapton tape on both sides of plate, silicone grommet to fit M3 screw in there with M3 fiber washer on both sides of hole. Since my prints have not been so large, the 6x8 area is sufficient, the screws themselves donby jobzombi - Smart_Rap
That worked fabulously....Thank you so much. just to clarify, does that mean the Mcode 42 means to provide power?by jobzombi - Firmware - mainstream and related support