Well tested out the high resolution small herringbone gear today and I would have to say it did make a noticeable difference. I printed out a copy of the older low res herringbone gear and then using the same slicer config printed out the high res gear. I think the biggest thing that the higher resolution gear at higher speeds/accelerations. With the lower resolution gear I was already approachinby ronanwarrior - Plastic Extruder Working Group
So I was bored and did not like seeing the facets on the sides of the small herringbone gear I have been printing recently so I decided to do something about it. I got all my orginal files from Lulzbot http://download.lulzbot.com/AO-101/hardware/printed_parts/source/ since it was with their files that I notices the facets on the gears. Granted I realize that this is not really a problem that plaby ronanwarrior - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Sounds kind of like the problem I the chips on the stepper driver were overheating. Before I found that out I thought it was getting stuck as well. I took apart the X and Y axis at least twice and rebuilt them. that never changed a thing. Practical dipped the whole thing in vat of Wd-40. I want to say with about 80% certainty that you are having the same problem as me. If you want to check measurby ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well the imodell looks similar to what you want but they the models it make are fairly basic. It cant do concaities. Because they are only doing it to get 3d image they just use textures for areas that it cant figure out. So I think you are defiantly going to have to use more than just two images to get a good print able model. Also I forget where it was but there is some software I found onceby ronanwarrior - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Well as it would have it for my extruder I made all the parts or of UHMW, well except for the insulation barrel. I did not think of trying in UHMW for the insulation barrel. If/when I get my Darwin back online (accidently fried a stepper driver) I can see if i can do some test. I have 6 Lbs of the stuff in 2x2x8in blocks. My major concerns are that it will either start to melt (I am printing ABSby ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well that does help a bit they are still missing some. I can't think off the top of my head which but that list looks a little short. Any ways now to go back to work and see if i can get some better printing done.by ronanwarrior - General
I have been looking around but have yet to see a list of all the properties settings and what they do or don't do. Yes I know some of them are I understand like port name but what is Extrude bandwidth and how will that change what I print. The page on tweaking only explains a few of them. So is there someone that would be kind enough to attempt to make a bit of list for me, and well others. I havby ronanwarrior - General
Well here is a video of the problem in action for those of you that have had my have had trouble understanding. . Edit: I also just got some temp reading from a IR Thermometer. It topped out somewhere around 130C - 135C. Which is pretty high. I got curious so i looked up the specs on mouser for the chip. "Maximum Operating Temperature: 130C" So definatly found a problem.by ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well okay it does try but at the same time it limits it self. Like when making a circle it always has the same starting point. It does switch going CW or CCW but it never starts at a new location. Besides taking time to get to the seem starting point it can also lead to other problems. It can make it so flaws are consistant through out the part. In my case it leaves a little bit of a blob at theby ronanwarrior - General
well in theory couldn't you just flip the wood auger drill the other way. Grind off the shank and grind off one or two revolutions frrm the other side so you have some place to attach "stuff".by ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well I think my problem is over heating related. After I leave the Darwin alone for several hours I can come back and print out a nice relatively cube like cube. As i start more prints it starts getting worse. If i wait a few minutes it can print the first layers with out problem but then go wacky. Also I never really paid attention to it before but if I leave the darwin powered for a while the mby ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well I kind of realized something stupid last night just befor going to sleep. I did most of that. Unplugged my flashdrive, restarted the host software a dozen closer other programs....but never restarted the computer. I dont think i have turned it off in like a 2 days now....just close the lid. So i feel really stupid for not even trying to restart the computer which.... is usaly the first secby ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well I am begining to think it is not mechanical error. mainly because I have gone ofer everything almost twice. Filed down platic to make sure the belt had enough clearnce and or grip. I have just noticed that in the terminal window i get this text and it seems to happen every time there is a shift. zmax: 1.0 zmax: 20.0 sendMessage error - retrying sendMessage error - retrying zmax: 1.0 zmax: 2by ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well I spoke to soon. The problem is back. dang it.by ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well I think I may have fixed it....I adjusted the trimpot on the stepper board and it appears to be operating as it should. Just printed out the first layer of widebar.stl and so far no jumps or weird shapes. I can't think of any reason why it would have been tweaked out of position in the first place. I mean up until to day the x axis function normal. IF things change I will mention it.by ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Okay so got my Darwin built and every thing seem to be working fine. After I get the extruder running I start printing. Now it seem like it is printing fine except randomly the x axis seems to stall or jump forward 1-2 mm. An example is that printing the 10mm cube when it is printing the boarder it misses and never get back to its starting point. Other times it can print the board fine and makesby ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well because like everyone else , we dont have much to go on i will throw in an idea. You could work on an plotting efficacy. What I mean is that offten the print head back tracks or takes the long way. Such as printing the "widebar.stl" after if finishes the first layer infill it could move or a mm or 2 and start the new layer boarder, but it instead goes back to the staring position from the fby ronanwarrior - General
Yes it may be halved but then again there is the fact that when the carriage is being "thrown" back and forth when it in the center each side of the frame will have equal force and vibration being throw at them. But the carriage is rarely just parked in the center of the cart bot. So it is best to round up and get something that get as close to 35N as you can. Because there is probably some extraby ronanwarrior - General
Well what if for the steel cable option you used eye bolts. That why you could easy test it on a current Darwin and there would be no need to change the diagonal brackets. Think of it as taking a normal threaded diagonal and chopping out the middle and replacing it with cable. The cable would be looped though the eye bolts and clamped with wire clamps. . The only advantages to this over the threby ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Okay I was thinking, yes I know bad idea, about how the max and min endstops could be combined. Theoreticaly all the arudino needs is a signal that "An" endstop has been triggered. If programed right the reprap software will know that it was for example moving left and hit a stop. So now the only option is to move right. While it means more programing and tweaking, this way will mean that 3 pinsby ronanwarrior - Controllers
Well if you open up the AOI file and export as obj you can open it up in a fair number of other programs. You can try sketchup (I think the free version can open them just not save them) or any other number of modleing programs. Many of these other porgams have a tape measure or dimmensioning tool.by ronanwarrior - Reprappers
Found a link for this site form Slashdot and well have been hooked ever since. What I want to make with it i am not sure...I think I am still in the awed stage were just the fact that it can print plastic is still the major attention holder. Nowdays I am working on build my own Darwin for technical elective credit for school and am in the process of getting access to the my colleges machining lby ronanwarrior - General
Okay here is the link PLEASE NOTE: The object files on here maybe "too new" and by that I mean that the fiels might have been just edit by one of the Core Reprappers and not be tested and not supported and may have wrong measurements... That being said I have not really seen any of that but do realize that these files are not as neatly as organized as the zipped .stl files. However if you geby ronanwarrior - Reprappers
Well I am not sure where I found them I will look for the link a bit later but i found the .AOI files which if opened in Art of Illiusion can be saved as .obj which Pro/E like a bit more than .stl files. I haave similar plan my self this summer So far I am still in the process of geting Pro/E for my own personal use. Our school uses Soildworks which hates .stl files and cant open .obj either. Alsby ronanwarrior - Reprappers
The only problem i can see with string is that it has the problem of expanding over time. Which mean you would either need to re tighten it every few days or over tighten it sou it would last longer... that of course might be to much for it and throw off the alignment and cause other problems. But until someone tries it out this is mostly speculation.by ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well if we lean more towards a "melting pot" rather than a auger I think we can cut down on a fare amount of issue we have with torque on jbweld cast auger and getting the granules the same size. Of course these would mean a having a small pool of molten plastic which can be dangerous. So I think the idea would be to have a heated melting pot with a heated tube attached to a slightly heated pistby ronanwarrior - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I just Got thinking a bit about the current flex drive system that we have and one of the bigger problems is that the JB weled and solder can't hold the wire in place so what if first the the drilled hole in the drive shaft was tapped and given left-hand thread. So that as the wire spins it would naturally force it self deeper into the hole. Having the holes threaded would allow for backlash withby ronanwarrior - Mechanics
Well this seem very promising compared to the other possibilities that have come up. Mounting a laser tool head seems a light easier to mount than a weighty drill/dremel tool head. But we shall see how it turns out.by ronanwarrior - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Well not exactly sure if it will help but ran across this website the other day. and it looks like they have a fairly wide range of magnets.by ronanwarrior - General
There we go that is what I was talking about...for what ever reason google was failing me in my quest for a picture of one.by ronanwarrior - California, Los Angeles RUG