Another failed evening, now it seems to attempt printing at ~8-10mm above the bed despite what I set the Z on the G31 in the config to. Hopefully I'll have some time over the weekend, but if I don't get this running soon, I'll have literally have spent half a year working on the damn thingby ByteSlinger - Fisher
Cool, I'll give that a try now. So if I were to do the G92 method, I'm guessing I enter that at the point that the paper is pinned, therefore forcing it to recognise that height as the thickness of the paper above the print bed?by ByteSlinger - Fisher
Here's some photos of how it comes out: These are of the underneath of the first later of a print: Here's a shot from the top: Bare in mind, this is literally the first part of the first layer. It should be nice, smooth and flat, but as soon as it's extruded it comes out flat, and bloats so it's already laying over where the next line of filament is to be placed.by ByteSlinger - Fisher
Ok, I did everything and it looked like it worked. I got it down to a deviation of ~0.05 which stayed stable to 0.001 each time I ran a probing. However it still seems like it's printing too low with the filament coming out very squashed which means that by the time it starts the second loop around the outline, the first one has expanded and causes it to be pushing really hard against it as it exby ByteSlinger - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis after gluing wrap a cable tie around the part to help keep it together Hehe I literally just finished doing this when I came back to read your reply Thanks again!by ByteSlinger - Fisher
Ah damn, looks like there's a crack down the side of the carriage, No wonder it's not gripping the bearing but god knows how that happened. Only thing I can think of is repetitive vibrations putting strain along a weak point. Going to epoxy the crack, use some paper around the bearing, then once this is working again, print a new carriage. Either which way, this isn't going to be solved tonight.by ByteSlinger - Fisher
Great! I'm confident once I get this bearing issue sorted that may be the solution to my problems. Unfortunately no matter how much I tighten this nut on the carriage the bearing (the small one) isn't staying put. Any ideas? I'm guessing it's a bad idea to glue/epoxy it?by ByteSlinger - Fisher
Bugger, ok, I've just noticed one of the bearings has come free of the carriage which would absolutely explain the sudden massive variance. Just trying to figure out how to get that to sit tight now :/by ByteSlinger - Fisher
Ok, so something really odd is up now. On my P0 (X-65 Y-37.5) the z measurement I'm getting before deducting the 0.11mm paper is 3.05mm (miles higher than anything I got before speaking a minute ago. I then go to my P1 (X-52 Y30) and even down to z0 it's still not made contact with the paper. It's definitely not the springs as the bed it pushed right up again the three sets of contact pins so cby ByteSlinger - Fisher
Yes I just saw as I was about to start that I hadn't halved my z axis movements. I've done that now and have also set all my P0-P8 locations as macros to speed up the process. Will check back in in a few minutes Thanks for your helpby ByteSlinger - Fisher
I thought it could have been the springs before so I ordered a brand new set which, once swapped over, seemed to make no difference. I'm not using stock arms but custom carbon arms which I made when first building the printer. I've just re-read your description in the other thread and it seems I've gotten a little confused along the way by the description on the Escher website where it suggestsby ByteSlinger - Fisher
I've overcome the issue of the effector catching thanks to an old post I found of DADIY's where he set it to return to the centre between each move. That allowed me to probe every point successfully. However, now I'm getting a deviation AFTER probe of between 0.23 and 0.35! When I watch it probing, especially at the outer points between the pillars it pushes so hard that it actually pushes the eby ByteSlinger - Fisher
UPDATE: I've just switched out the bed.g probing lines with that which was generated by the wizard: ; bed.g file for RepRapFirmware ; 10 points, 6 factors, probing radius: 75, probe offset (0, 0) G30 P0 X0.00 Y75.00 Z-99999 H0 G30 P1 X64.95 Y37.50 Z-99999 H0 G30 P2 X64.95 Y-37.50 Z-99999 H0 G30 P3 X0.00 Y-75.00 Z-99999 H0 G30 P4 X-64.95 Y-37.50 Z-99999 H0 G30 P5 X-64.95 Y37.50 Z-99999 H0 G30 Pby ByteSlinger - Fisher
Quotedc42 What config.g, homedelta.g and bed.g files are you using? If you updated them when you installed the new firmware, revert to your old ones. I know RepRapPro used to say you should update the SD card contents when you update the firmware, but it's usually not necessary and better not to; except that you should make sure that the files in /www are up to date. Ok, thanks Dave, issue sorteby ByteSlinger - Fisher
After 5 months of work on this printer I finally got it working almost perfectly. The only thing left to get right was the bed wasn't levelling perfectly. I upgraded the firmware from 1.09 to 1.12a and now both the homing and the levelling features are completely screwed. If I home, the first time it homes, all three axis stop when the first switch is tripped so I have to home at least twice ifby ByteSlinger - Fisher
QuotePRZ You shall then modify the H parameters in the bed.g file and reload this file on the SD card. I find the FTP the easiest method for that. Which H Parameters would that be? I'm a little confused. Surely this should be a Z parameter I'm adjusting?by ByteSlinger - Fisher
Hi DC, How's tricks? I was wondering if you could remember the supplier and model of the motors we were looking at as a potential upgrade?by ByteSlinger - Fisher
Well that's what I thought looking at the site, but I just couldn't believe that this is the first time I've found this store as I've spent ages looking for parts online before and even asked on here and never found or been forwarded to that website. Is the store section new or something?by ByteSlinger - General
Just found this site looking for spare Fisher parts and I'm surprised that this is the first time I've seen this site. Does anyone know if they are legit?by ByteSlinger - General
On this note, has anyone successfully printed with Ninjaflex on a stock fisher? I'm really wanting to print with some but have heard that doesn't work well with bowden extruders.by ByteSlinger - Fisher
I'm looking to print with Ninjaflex on my Fisher but wanted to check peoples opinions/experiences printing it without a heated bed. Am I going to run into endless problems or should it be ok?by ByteSlinger - Polymer Working Group
I'm thinking of making a bespoke table for the printer with a hole directly underneath it in which I can fit a fan. If I have the fan facing down, in theory this should pull air down through the logo holes, past the board and down out of the table. Do you think this is sufficient? I would have it facing up directly onto the board but was thinking that may then blow air out around the print bed edby ByteSlinger - Fisher
I've been experiencing layer shifting followed by layer separation on my prints at around 10 hours into my prints ultimately ruining them after a days work. I have a feeling this may be due to the motors/motor controllers overheating. As a result, I'd like to add some sort of cooling for them but wondered what solutions other people had already put in place with their fishers. My idea was to getby ByteSlinger - Fisher
Quotegeeksarebeta I've been wanting to do this as I usually have a desk lamp pointed at the printer while in use as I like to watch so having some lighting would be great, just have to find some 5V lighting now that would be suitable, I know Ikea have a USB lamp, but I'd prefer strip LEDs if I can get them. I've ordered some self adhesive strip LEDs which I'm going to run up the inside of the sby ByteSlinger - Fisher
Quotechrishamm Vergo, were you doing anything specific when it happened? ByteSlinger, am I right thinking you're using dc42's latest 1.10+4 firmware with my latest DWC 1.11? If you get a chance, please don't turn off your printer after the problem occurred, connect it via USB , send the following codes and post their output here: M111 P1 S1 M122 Ah Chris, I'm really sorry. I only just saw thby ByteSlinger - Duet
It seems I've just had this exact same thing, a few hours into a 14 hour print. I had the same error message, then could not re-connect. Refreshed the page and was presented with: ERR_NAME_NOT_RESOLVED Searched for the MAC address on the network and it showed up so tried connecting via the ip address rather than the machine name. This just timed out. Searched connected devices again and it was gby ByteSlinger - Duet
Ok, and now it's stopped showing up in the "arp -a" list at all. Tried swapping ethernet cables with no luck. I really don't want to stop the print as it's already been running for hours and it'll be a massive set-back. The print seems like it should continue all ok as it's running from the SD but I just don't like the idea of having no control. Also, I won't be able to retract at the end of theby ByteSlinger - Fisher
I've found it's IP address by running an "arp -a" in cmd and back-tracking from the MAC address. It's showing up in the list so is active on the network but even typing in the IP address rather than the "machine name" doesn't connect. It just times out...by ByteSlinger - Fisher
I'm currently half way through a 14 hour print and the network GUI has lost connection: QuoteERR_NAME_NOT_RESOLVED I've tried refreshing to no avail. The print is still going ahead but I'd really like to be able to monitor it on a print like this. Any suggestions?by ByteSlinger - Fisher