Evogenius you should probably read his first post.by Sniper4395 - Printing
mfeherpataky Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Because it is metal only design, theoretically you > can heat it up to crazy temperatures and use other > materials then PLA and ABS. There are some people > on the forum experimenting with different > materials and results. The instructions suggest it has a PTFE tube inside. That will melt at high temby Sniper4395 - General
By "one or more sides" do you mean one or more strands of filament? That happens to mine sometimes. Try increasing the Solid Layers. Usually I like to do 3, but always at least 2. Your single wall width seems ok. Remember the part will shrink a tiny bit as it cools.by Sniper4395 - General
Here you go. A mid-air 90-degree print. Did this a few days ago, so the part has been cleaned up with a dremel. If you saw the original you wouldn't think much of it. The first layer droops to the ground acting like support material and the layers above it print fine. Also these pictures uploaded sideways for whatever reasonby Sniper4395 - Printing
Why wouldnt you want to extrude into filament first?by Sniper4395 - General
So your saying that at the very beginning of a print your printer will move to all three endstops successfully? That is the process called "homing." The reason I bring up belt slippage is because this has happened to me before where using Marlin with Printrun the belts would slip during a print and the printer would ignore the endstops, running the bed to the end and even knocking over my printeby Sniper4395 - Printing
Better than my X-carriage wobble from balance issues. Too bad there isnt time to work on it. Too busy building my MendelMaxby Sniper4395 - Competitions
Ok I already know how you feel about editing gcode manually, but given the hypothetical I'd say this would be necessary or else you'd have to extrude the whole bridge somehow with manual commands. Supposing you did do that for the entire bridge what would happen is the filament would not stick together and you'd get a bunch of seperate strands rather than a fused filament extrusion. also unlessby Sniper4395 - Printing
I dont print with PLA. ABS exclusive so take the following with a grain of salt. Quote First I don't get how bedleveling.stl is supposed to help me. When I load it up it prints nothing. check to make sure it's scaled to fit your build area and set your layer height to .4, also might try adding infill, perimeters, brim or whatever you can with the version of Slic3r you have to make it print somby Sniper4395 - General
Sweet. Looks like a TOM clone. Got all your endstops soldered well? Have you checked to make sure they're working at all? Do you have "home all axes" in your start Gcode? Could your belts/pulleys be slipping? check to make sure the belts are tight to the pulleys with 4 or more teeth touching the pulleys at all times and make sure the pulleys are tight to the motor shafts with grub/set screwsby Sniper4395 - Printing
haha wow. Had to re-read my own post to get that one.by Sniper4395 - Printing
Even if that object was 1mm in size you still wouldnt be able to pull off a bridge with 90 degree angles or any angles for that matter. bridging is point to point only. Anything else would need support material.by Sniper4395 - Printing
I feel the same as you do. Wanting to build a second printer, looking for the same things, love the Rostock, but it looks too "young" right now for us noobs to be building. After looking through the options out there I'm considering the MendelMax. It's got a sexy extruded aluminum frame, is reportedly super reliable, prints fast, large build volume, not too different from your average Prusa deriby Sniper4395 - General
Just checked it out. Loving the preview window and raft support, but I don't see settings for nozzle size or anything like that. I'll try it and see what happens though. thanks!by Sniper4395 - General
Enlightx thats awesome! I'm amazed that it turned out so well. You must have one seriously well calibrated printer. Can these patches be linked with eachother by hand? I'd print a T-shirt if it didnt mean trying to connect patches together with wire.by Sniper4395 - Competitions
Yeah man that's classic belt slippage right there. Never heard of a pulley that's meant to be just press fit. flat your motors, add a grub screw and put a small dab of Locktite on the shaft and the grub screw. Personally my belts are so tight that I had to epoxy the pulleys on. I'll pay for that when it comes time to change out the belts, but hey they dont slip! hahaby Sniper4395 - Printing
Similar problems happen to me. Xcarriage moves smoothly going left and wiggles a bit while going right, Y bed moves smoothly going away and wiggles a bit while moving forward. What helped me was retightening the belts, adding extra bearings on the X carriage, relubricating the whole thing, using thinner and lighter glass on the bed, retightening nuts around the base was a big help and using anby Sniper4395 - Printing
Hey Simba, What diameter will you be shipping to your beta testers? I know you use 1.75 so if that's the case then I'd like to go ahead and start getting setup for it. Also in regards to your heavy filament approximately how much (in %) filler will you be using and what is the expected specific gravity?by Sniper4395 - General
Sweet. If it isnt too bulky then I'd love to use a design like that. Quickly swapping out nozzles from .5 to .25mm for larger or smaller prints would be useful. Here is the tube I was referring to. Its usually used in J-head hotends though others like the Ubis hotend may not use one.by Sniper4395 - Printing
Whats wrong with an MK1, MK2 or Helios board? The Printbed states 8x8x.1 so .1 inches is 2.54mm.by Sniper4395 - General
You can do this by editing the Gcode yourself. Someone wrote an article on it somewhere. haha I know that isnt much help, if I find it then I'll post the link here.by Sniper4395 - General
Woah! Had no idea that the software made that much of a difference. Why cant Sailfish work for other repraps then? I assumed that all repraps, short of Delta bots like the Rostock, are pretty much the same and the software is only responsible for controlling XYZE motors. It seems like any reprap could fit those parameters.by Sniper4395 - General
Quote I've recalibrated everything on my MendelMax and just cannot touch the quality coming off a squeaky, clunky old TOM. Sigh. Huh. Thought MendelMax was supposed to be the new bad-boy on the block. Never heard a report of low quality prints off them before. RichRap swears by them doesn't he? Then again I've never heard of anyone printing .25mm layer height at 90mm/sec before. Impressive! Hoby Sniper4395 - General
Could you convert a printer to a series of periods? Sure! I suggest a sledge hammer. You could also give it to a female.by Sniper4395 - General
Fin! Awesome survey. Hope the report comes out well.by Sniper4395 - General
You've already done all the calibration prints? Here's a good calibration set with detailed instructions on how to use them. Finish with this and you should be well on your way to perfect prints. Personally I just printed a million hollow cubes and others like the Pyramid or thin walls for calibrating. When your done be sure to print a shot glass and toast to your success!by Sniper4395 - Reprappers
That catapult is gorgeous. Some great right-angles on it. I wasnt aware that the Rostock even supported a hotbed in the original build. The fact that your getting ABS to stick to bare glass at all is a miracle IMO. Try painting on some ABS juice at least maybe with a brim. As far as the crumbly looking infill your getting, I used to get that too if we're talking about the same thing. In my casby Sniper4395 - Printing
Hey Tom! Wiki is a community effort which can be changed by anyone, so apparently someone updated one page without updating both. This happened when I built the Printrbot. What I did was assemble the best I could and adjust from there and the changes became obvious. If you find out which one is "better" or more accurate to the length needed you can always make the changes to the wiki yourself.by Sniper4395 - General
VDX is spot on. Think the sticky stuff is called sericin if memory serves right. silkworm coccoons have it too. You just soak them in warm water with a little detergent to get it loose, run a toothbrush on the coccoon to find the filament end, spin about 10 threads together to make string and then you can wash it in detergent water again to really make it shine or sew something and then wash it.by Sniper4395 - General
Yep. Spiders web is silk. The only difference is that silkworms spin a single thread and spiders spin segments to create their webs. You can actually soak spider webs in soap water, "comb" it (like one would comb wool from sheep fur) and then spin it into silk yarn if you can find enough. Check your basement or attic. Should find enough to knit a sweater! VDX who said anything about commercial pby Sniper4395 - General