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Plastics, Epoxies, Resins, Photopolymerization, etc - Research, Development, Use, and Analysis -> http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/Plastics
Re: Printing ABS using Elmers glue on the bed - 12 years ago
Quotedave3d Acetone is not particularly toxic. It is produced naturally in the body after all. It is best to avoid breathing it in though. For me, ABS juice did not work if applied directly on glass. The print didn't just lift in a corner, it completely dislodged even with the glass at 110 deg C. ABS juice works well if it is used on top of Kapton tape, but this is hassle. Elmers glue is easyby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Re: Sticking to head (PLA) and pulling print off bed - 12 years ago
QuoteKDog Hi, For starters, it looks like the first layer is too high. Take a bit of time working on your bed leveling to correct this. Second, make sure that you clean (scrub) your bed with acetone just before your print. This will ensure that you get a good stick. Try these things out and you may get completely different results. Cheers, KDog Acetone is not sufficient always - use propby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
How i made things stick - Great info for newbs - 12 years ago
Like many beginners - we had severe issues of getting things to stick to bed initially! Let me share my experience to you! Initially we got things to only occasionally to stick, we tried: - Acetone to degrease etc. : No sticking - Kapton: No sticking - White painter's tape: No sticking - I'm thinking the blue coloring on blue tape is what makes things stick! - leveling the bed to 5 hundredths ofby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Re: Slic3r generates gcode that retracts but doesn't advance 
- 12 years ago
I have this issue - putting in more extra length infact makes it even worse to the point one print failed because it retracted the filament out of the extruder On Cura retract seems to be working quite well - but cura is missing important fine tune options. I've tried speeds, and lengths from low to high, and extremes: 1mm retract, 5mm extra resulted in filament being backed out. In general i'vby PulsedMedia - Slic3r
Re: Auto bed leveling - 12 years ago
the wear on the threaded rods is neglible even at worst! Threaded rods cost like 3€ per meter, changing it out a 15min job - maybe needed after 100 000hours. Just add a bit of MoS2 grease and they are going to outlast remainder of the printer by far. Even if they would wear out, the cost of replacement is very tiny - so i don't see why people are worried over this? If you are using lead screw,by PulsedMedia - Mendel90
Re: Making a huge 3D Printer! - 12 years ago
Some progress! Spent a while thinking how do i mount the Y makerslides so that i can fine tune it, then i recalled how panhard rod chassis mount is being adjusted in Nascar Simple really. Just need to get fine pitch M8 bolts for each corner to do the final tuning - the question remains: is it fine enough or will it be too coarse. Ultimately i would like to make adjustment as precise as my measuby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Pitting / Holes on objects - 12 years ago
I have pitting / holes on objects, i've tried to tune the flow amount, with less flow it seems there is more of pitting, and higher flow results in less BUT i have flow too high, holes come way too small, and still some pitting is happening. It looks a little bit like moisture in filament, but this happens always on same spots on the objects, ie. not completely random. It happens in both infillby PulsedMedia - General Mendel Topics
Re: What do you print (ABS) on? - 12 years ago
I had severe adherence issues at first - the trick was washing the glass carefully with dishwashing soap and water, very well rinsed, then drying it with newspaper sheets. The newspaper seems to be important - it does help for the parts to stick. This is a old known trick on car circles to smooth out tiny scratches on windshields for a little while and to get glasses super clean finish, some kindby PulsedMedia - General
Re: printing on glass with ABS Juice or sugar coating - 12 years ago
QuoteVDX ... you can try with malt-beer - some of the additives (beside of shugar) seems to help too don't know about adherence, but definitely helps with the mood of the printer operator!by PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Re: Making a huge 3D Printer! - 12 years ago
First 2 renders of the assembly, starting to slightly show case what i'm going forby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Delrin/POM for 3d printing? - 12 years ago
Has anyone tried this? Apart from the obvious requirement for high powered all metal hotend for the high temps (300c+?) required, is there somekind of problem with this? Printing Delrin would be so awesome!by PulsedMedia - Polymer Working Group
Re: Making a huge 3D Printer! - 12 years ago
Did check the parts required from Inventables, shopping cart became 310$ in the end. Big part of the expense is the Dual bearing V-wheels - i'm now wondering could i just print these from nylon (or from trimemr line) Eccentric spacers and carriages could be a good idea to purchase as well instead of 3D printing them, but am still considering the options. It would be fun to design all of this, buby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Re: Nylon printing. - 12 years ago
I decided to give it a go as well, and just purchased a 3lbs spool of 2.7mm dia for less than 30$. I'm sure i could have found it cheaper than that if i spent more time searching, but still real cheap! Also i noticed you can get these with reinforcements already in place, good for extra sturdy parts! I intend to print bushings for cars eventually, so it's good to know the layer adhesion is veryby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Re: Steppers not activating, not working - 12 years ago
Only one of them smoked, rest look intact, but yeah that doesn't proof they are in condition. Oh well, new ones should arrive later this week and i'll get to see. Need to solve the connection issues as well, worse connection issues now with new MEga 2560 R3 than the old 1280by PulsedMedia - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Making a huge 3D Printer! - 12 years ago
Did a bad pic of the hot end design, and started new thread about it:by PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Ghetto all metal hotend, nozzles sizes start at 0.15mm - 12 years ago
As part of another project i've been thinking of making a "ghetto" hot end of all metal design. Sorry for the *really* bad design pic, i usually draw everything on paper and not on computer and didn't feel like making a 3D model for this. So i've been thinking of making a ghetto style hot end. Minimal BOM is: 1x40W Heater cartridge 1xThermistor 3mm ID/5mm OD SS Pipe ~15-20cm 5xM5 nut 1xM6 extenby PulsedMedia - Paste Extrusion Working Group
Re: Making a huge 3D Printer! - 12 years ago
Parts acquired are: Wood Platform 608ZZ ABEC 7 high quality bearings big bunch (50 pack) 608ZZ ABEC 9 High quality *actual* skate board bearings for the most precise bits (40 pack) If going with GT2 belts those already got If going with RAMPS, those already got with standard step sticks. RAMPS 1.4, Arduino Mega 2560 RasperryBi Power supply (750W) 2F Capacitors for stabilizing power supply if needby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Making a huge 3D Printer! - 12 years ago
We are about to build a huge 3D Printer - A LOT of variations has gone through my mind - and i'm finally setting into a construct. After seeing maker slides, i'm pretty sure we'll do the basic structure using them: X: 1800mm maker slides, travel approximately 1600mm Y: 1200mm maker slide, sliding on top of X, travel approximately 1000mm Z: 600mm maker slide, mounted vertically on the Y, travel aby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Re: Steppers not activating, not working - 12 years ago
ALL of them, really? :O I wonder which one was now the disconnected one so i could try with that alone, but none of the motors worked when i put in the remainder and replaced the obviousl fried one. *sigh* Nothing but trouble, nothing but trouble. The stepper drivers i got last time have the pot going all the way around with no marker, so that caused the earlier ramps to fail with fried pins, wby PulsedMedia - RAMPS Electronics
Steppers not activating, not working - 12 years ago
So i had issues of skipping and while debugging that i accidentally put a stepper drive back one slot, causing a short being on wrong pins. Threw that stepper driver away, put in another: Now none of the stepper motors activate any more. Thought, ok maybe i destroyed the ramps and/or arduino (my skipping issue was on ramps board), and got another one. Put new RAMPS + Arduino in, working stepperby PulsedMedia - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Time-lapse video link of Mr.Yoda being printed. - 12 years ago
very nice print! What does cartesian style machine mean btw?by PulsedMedia - General
Re: 3D cement printer - 12 years ago
Amazing project! Simply awesome! On the curing, why not try heat? Lots of heat. You could put a heat gun or two blowing at the tip of the nozzle from 2 sides, or 4 at each side, that way you get some heat applied to cement coming up ahead and on the wake of just extruded. As i understand, cement cures in function of water "leaving" it, ie. that means heat + air circulation is the quickest meaby PulsedMedia - General
Re: Y axis skipping - 12 years ago
so you have replaced all but the actual stepper now?by PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Re: RAMPS 1.3 E1 pinouts? - 12 years ago
i have same issue on Y and need to move it to E1 - but what is the same pin for Y_MIN if using E1? Does that pin even really matter?by PulsedMedia - RAMPS Electronics
Re: This is why we don't buy unspooled filament. - 12 years ago
I have a spool of ultimachine PLA which has knots in it Also for some reason quite quickly after starting that spool the spot went into underlying layers in the spool, making it often so tight fit that i cannot pull it out by hand, sometimes snapping it. As a result -> Huge failure rate due to spool tangles I must admit -> Who ever spooled that had to be brilliant to find a way to spoolby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Re: if theres crap filament I think I got it - 12 years ago
that's pretty bad if it really is in the filament. Oh well, at least your filament isn't otherwise very good but spooled into knots like the ultimachine filament i have >_< So many failed prints, so much wasted time manually going to unwrap the spool until a knot you can't shake away comes a long and you have to cut it and open the knots, then watch when the filament ends and put it back thby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Re: Cheap eBay parts - 12 years ago
most of the chinese stuff is actually quite a good quality BUT when they flop, they do it hard. I had a chinese hotend which was total crap, full of design and mfg flaws, no ptfe tube which resulted in constant jams, heater resistor was not properly fixed so heat was not transferring and it almost broke the heater element, along with WILDLY fluctuating temps (20c fluctuations!) etc etc etc. justby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Re: Y axis skipping - 12 years ago
I started having this issue (as well) yesterday. It's not stepper driver overheating, nor the stepper, i wasted more than a day fiddling with that. It sounds a bit like the belt skipping. I have GT2 belts with high quality pulleys, and belt is about the same tightness. I was able to print at speeds well above 200mm/s before this started, larger prints are far more prone to this as well. Now evenby PulsedMedia - Reprappers