Very good choice of model, that should be a tricky one to print, but everyone likes a challenge!by richrap - Competitions
Yes, the extruder is actually going quite slowly, it can push much more plastic, but I'm just about at the speed limit of this machine. I'm getting very little die swell and forces are low with this nozzle, you can push and extrude PLA 3mm filament with just two fingers at 145 degrees C Repetier Host predicted the print time to be 26mins, and it tends to be accurate for me, so I think my Firmwarby richrap - Competitions
bryanandaimee Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Printed on a mostly stock Makerbot Cupcake with > the original extruder and hot end (V5 I think). > Using the original DC gear motor and everything. > ABS plastic. 0.5mm nozzle. > > I get 46 minutes 30 seconds. > > If you can't beat that you have serious issues. > > > I'll warm up tby richrap - Competitions
What a shame, I much prefer the BFB machines to the CubeX. It would have been nice (Impossible for big companies) for 3D systems to let BFB continue with the 3000 and Touch into the Education sector, using low cost filament reels, now the CubeX just has the same silly expensive cartridges at the Cube. I'm sure they have a plan... BFB machines and users are all very welcome on the RepRap Foruby richrap - General
Hi Everyone, I have done some experiments with Taulman 618 Nylon Filament, and also dyeing the filament in different colours for the below effect - You can find the full details on my Blog Here, along with video's about the process and printing Nylon parts on Tantillus and Rostock 3D printers. If you have any questions, do ask. Rich.by richrap - Polymer Working Group
bryanandaimee Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > richrap : That's the spirit But why a vapor > bath? It seems like you wouldn't have any trouble > with adhesion. > The Vapour bath is not for adhesion, it's to melt the outer surface after a print, you can make a 0.3mm printed object look smoother than a 0.1mm object after a vapour bath. He looks aroundby richrap - Competitions
billyzelsnack Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I like the idea of ignoring the nozzle and layer > height as long as the part looks and functions > like it is supposed to then great. Volume is > volume and the speed limit these days is volume. Well if I can cheat then, it may convince me to try ABS in big layers and an acetone vapour bath It should bby richrap - Competitions
Just spotted this one myself, maybe just leave it open without the prize, it's a really nice challenge.by richrap - Competitions
bryanandaimee Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That's right 100% solid part. That way we don't > have to worry about layer size or thickness or > number of surface layers or anything like that. > Just fill that 3D surface full of plastic as fast > as you can. Like the challenge, but you need to limit the possible options to really measure speed ofby richrap - Competitions
I'm sure Jo is trying really hard to get high quality nozzles batch manufactured, they need special polishing inside so it all works correctly with just Stainless Steel. I can't imagine it's going to take much longer. I have also been keen to try one out on various materials.by richrap - General
Nice job, and congratulations on the ears - they are a bit trickyby richrap - General
coreformula Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am using PLA at 180. > > It is aligned and straight > > I can push it through manually. Try it at 195 Degrees (if that is an already calibrated thermistor) And did you increase the motor current? (turn the trim pot clockwise a little at a time) Does the NEMA17 motor have a ~50mm long body or a ~40mmby richrap - General
The M303 command usually takes about 5 minutes on Marlin RC2/3 - it may well just loop over and over on earlier Marlin Releases. You need to put these values into the configuration.h and re-make your firmware. It's about line 130 in recent Marlin releases - // If you are using a preconfigured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it // Ultimaker #define DEFAULT_Kpby richrap - General
Can you push it by hand when it's at temperature? Do you have the thermistor calibrated? - if not see this post I just made here And have you turned the Stepper motor POT up or down? to change power to the motor? And if you have done all that, get a geared extruder, direct drive extruders are a pain.by richrap - General
A bit of a rant and advice below, do take a read as it has some good tips in it, from many, many experiences of sorting out hot-ends for people. If anyone is going to quote temperatures about anything 3D Printer and filament related, especially on this forum, it really does help to know it's calibrated. And it's very important to get the thermistor table correct in the firmware. And not just coby richrap - General
hendo420 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm pretty sure mine isn't accurate but... > I dont think its really necessary to know the "real" > temperature, except maybe to prevent overheating > and melting your PEEK. Yes it does! You have set me off now, get ready for some hot-end advice.by richrap - General
hendo420 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > As the temp drops my fill gets worse and worse. I > wish I could find a filament supplier that their > plastic actually extrudes and produces a good > print at 170-180. Did you mention what hot-end you are using? The orange material looks like translucent PLA, it should work perfectly fine at 170 Degrees C. Iby richrap - General
Wow, that's just getting unbelievable, I'm highly impressed. It would be interesting to compare these to DLP/Laser Resin prints, I didn't think RepRap FFF would be getting down this small. I was impressed with the comparison of the 0.2mm nozzle on a Printrbot and an Objet printer - Printrbot vs. Objet Alaris30Pro - From the Printrbottalk forum -by richrap - Competitions
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Well, Finally received my package. > Items broken, stuff missing...... Some printed > parts of the machine turn out to look completely > different from the construction guides I have > found on the web.. > Will mail the seller, because this is not cool. > Especially 2 big parts are missing.. X-end motoby richrap - General
konstantin.neo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi. > What is the reasoning behind 3mm and 1.75mm? Those > are not imperial standard. I guess one could make > custom filament size and print with it too. > Why not 1/16 or 5/64? 3mm filament was originally used in plastic welding equipment for automotive use etc. this comes as 3mm in a lot of differeby richrap - General
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Also, in Repetier it says '2:30' printing time, is > that in minutes? > > I don't expect the print to take an hour, but I > also don't expect the print to be done in 2.30 > minutes. Seems wrong. > > Wednesday I get the Air SXL, it's a modified Air > with a 160mm Z-axis. It's saying 2hours 30mby richrap - General
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Anyone who can look at my pictures and tell me if > it's doable for a newbie to 3D printing? > Heres some screenshots of what I did (btw I set > Slic3r for the correct settings for the Prusa Air, > don't worry) > You have placed the floating cube very high, this just wastes support material. Bring it doby richrap - General
@plexus that's stunning is it hard to get going for the first layer using a 0.2mm nozzle - is that why you opted for a raft? I'll have to track down some small 0.2mm nozzles, looks like fun, I would really like to try Nylon at that nozzle size.by richrap - Competitions
And I suppose that's yet another closed source printer, you are trying to yet again sell on an open source forum, to users and developers of an open source project. You just don't get it, do you. Congratulations Makemendel, you win the golden supplier award for yet again for being so far removed from this project in every way possible, I'm almost at a loss for words. I expect this thread to beby richrap - For Sale
Thanks to everyone that entered or had a go at micro printing, this really shows some of the stunning printing that's going on out there and it's a good test for pushing the FFF boundary. We had entries over on the G+ 3D printing community too, so thank's to everyone over there that also entered a picture. It's always hard to select a winner with these competitions as we have such a great standby richrap - Competitions
Idolcrasher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would live to hear any ideas you have for > alternate print surfaces. The afina printer has a > unique surface. Though I am not sure exactly what > it has. Can anyone elaborate? My current fad is heated mirror-glass with hairspray at the print surface, seems to work well for PLA, and it's easier to remby richrap - General
davew_tx Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I still can't get over how impressive those green > Rostock parts are. > I doubt an actual Rostock could achieve that. > > Obviously, no offense to anyone who's submitted, > but those green ones set the bar high. > > Dave Some of the best prints and best layer registration I have ever had have beeby richrap - General
BenitoSanduchi Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Rich, Thanks! Those prints are amazing! When I > try to go that small and hollow, Slic3r 0.9.8 > infills the whole thing. How did you avoid that? Hi Ben, thanks, you need to turn down Slic3r's Solid infill Threshold area setting under print settings/Infill - it's default (70mm2) is usually way too high foby richrap - Competitions
Very sorry to hear your sad news, deepest sympathies. Do stay with us here on the forum and in time, build your printer, it will give you a focus. Rich.by richrap - General
Hi Billy, great idea, it would be rather cool to do Russian dolls with embossing, single wall thickness so you can pack a lot of them together. Real Russian dolls usually have about 10-15 in a basic set, I have a set with 24, the Guinness world record is a set with 51 stacked, we could beat that Sublime has a very neat trick to print with just a few microns of embossing - see the Tantillus foruby richrap - Competitions