If Gus can be solved using belts . It would be a very good candidate that can be injection milder and made into a mass produced machine . It’s just too cool when u see it working. I wish someday it becomes a proper printer.by ekaggrat - General New Machines Topics
I will be printing Gus 2.5 arms soon. I think the string walking issue is only in the 1.5 version . But I will report back as soon as I am done. I think a better approach would be belts and it has been done by rustynoob but even he left it half way though . So I don’t know if that would a better aproach . I got my 1.5 arms printing only recently but due to string walking a cube is printed with slby ekaggrat - General New Machines Topics
have you seen the improvements made to it on the conceptforge forum. I have built one of the improved one s 1 year bak but have yet to commission it properly.. We can collaborate if you want . the biggest head ache is the string walking error. i just love the way it moves and i wish it could be a practical printer..by ekaggrat - General New Machines Topics
i am tmpted to try klipper but what stops me is the usb connection.. i have got rid of my octoprint in the past as the usb many times drops the connection and the printer haults mid print... very frustrating. How realiable is the usb connection in klipper? thanks for the great work!by ekaggrat - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
200x200 300x300 100x100 150x150 most common circular 180mm ( kossel )by ekaggrat - Developers
See the bukito . It uses flat cables for cable management and is very neat. U can use multiple parallel lines for higher ampsby ekaggrat - CoreXY Machines
with all the diy membrane pumps on the internet i am surprised no one thought of printing one... u just need a dc motor and some surgical glove silicone.. i dont see y it has not been done..by ekaggrat - CoreXY Machines
which air pump did you use?by ekaggrat - CoreXY Machines
look for silicone blanket wire on aliexpress.. it is basically silicone encased nichrome wire. u just need to stick it to the bottom of the plate with a liquid silicone gasket and vola instant heated bed... i have 2 such bed running on 220 v... only take care to coat the bed with a insulating material like polymide before putting the wire or in case of short u will have high voltage running throby ekaggrat - Experimental and Hobby
it is just tough to get the calibration right.. any error in the printed parts and you are stuck trying to figure out what is wrong!by ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
great , is it possible to support kinematics like the gus simpson... I am working on a gus simpson and the nearest thing that works on a ramps board is a hacked marlin version which is not so pretty to manipulate as the code is jumbled up..by ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
@wangsamax What is the advantage of your firmware over the others?by ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
look for arduino inkjet shield.. also it has beedn done and there is a kit for sale on tinkieby ekaggrat - General
is it possible to attach a esp8266 to a duet 0.6 or a radds board to make it wifi enabled? the duet wifi uses a different sam processor so is the wifi part of the firmware compatible with the older sam? thanksby ekaggrat - Duet
okay then by that means a 33 mm long stepper should be enough for a direct drive. but you mentioned that the bare minimum for a direct drive is 48mm.. a 48 mm motor on a average has 4.4kgcm holding torque so even at half its rating will give .8/1.75 * 44 * 500 = 10057 .. so it is a overkill a 33mm long motor with average 3.1 kg.cm and 1.4 amps would give .8/1.4 * 31 * 500 = 8857 ... still onby ekaggrat - Reprappers
pull up a old thread. is the units actually Nm .. that would make a 4.4Kg.cm motor useless but it actully is okay? 4.4 kg.c m is .4Nm so in the formula the value would be .8/1.75 * 0.4 * 500 = 213 ??? am i making a mistake somewhere? I am actually designing a light weight extruder using a 42mm tin can stepper motor and i was trying to work out the optimum torgue when i came accross this postby ekaggrat - Reprappers
repetier doesnt work with teacup... i tried a lot for my core xy but it never worked.. pronterface is perfect .by ekaggrat - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
i tried changing the current but nothing helped. I finally found a sweet spot at 40mm/s perimeter speed which shows minimal ripples. what i figured was that the ripples showup in models with more segments like in curved surfaces. I think it has to do something with the acceleration and de acceleration of the motor when going though the segments. I have been using the printer since last 3 months aby ekaggrat - CoreXY Machines
i dont think you can use the usual scara branch of a firmware as that is meant for a parallel scara ( morgan ) while your is a serial scara. As far as i am aware there is not firmware which supports this configuration for now. The work around would be use a gcode post processor to modify the cartasian gcode to scara gcode . Also looking at the arm length and the gear ratio i dont think you willby ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
@james I tried the reversed belts but no change. @nebbain slowing down does help the drivers are already 1/32 the frame is very rigid so i dont think that is resonating. I amnot sure if the cantilever bed causes thisby ekaggrat - CoreXY Machines
@jamesK did you solve the problem? i am having a similar issue reprap forumby ekaggrat - Printing
hi, i just finished my core xy and tried to use teacup with it.. i got it uploaded and jogged the axis and extruder , everything worked fine. Then i tried a print. the print start at center of the plate , first layer perfect, the next layer is printed shifted both in x and y by 50mm , and the next is also shifted , and finally the head crashed the printer frame... what stupid mistake am i makiby ekaggrat - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
any good conclusion for this problem.. I am haveing the same problem core xy forumby ekaggrat - General
or my corexy i tried a direct drive extruder with a mk8 hobb . I am getting these wierd ripples in the prints. ( the rippples are visible in the plan like inconstant extrusion. The steps per mm for the motor are right, the hot end is new and not clogged. the nozzle is 0.5mm so the force needed to extrude is not so much ( u can easily push with 2 fingres ) . Up until now i have been using geared eby ekaggrat - CoreXY Machines
did you find a fix? I am facing the same problem and i tried 2 different extruders . one a direct drive and one a geared extruder.. the ripples stayby ekaggrat - Printing
did you solve this problem? i am haveing the same problem. i tired even changing to a geared extruder but the pattern is still visible thanksby ekaggrat - Printing
i am currently building a gus and in spite of its simpler mathematics it is a pain to calibrate. i think wally's kinematics is even more complicated and that makes it hard to calibrate. I think another aproach could be to use two arms of gus horizontally and move the z platform. that will be easy to calibrate. just a thought. i am not sopping u from your en devours just warning you of possible piby ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
so why reinvent the wally which was a faliure because of being a pain to calibrate? I think you should look at wally and improve from thereby ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
@DjDemonD the problem is not the atmega2650 board . those things run fine. they are made cheaper by replacing the ftdi chip with a cheaper version. the problem is the ramps board. it works fine as long as your heated bed is powered from a ssr or relay.. the moment you use it to power your bed the ramps will fail somewhere along a long print with a nice puff of smoke .by ekaggrat - General