@tomso thanks most of the stuff is here hackaday project the hardest part is winding the coils so it is not a easy build..by ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
@dc42 thanks. but i was looking at making one but this board needs some work. anyways..by ekaggrat - General
@dc42 can you point me to the github of your low cost 32 bit board . I cant seem to find it.. maybe it will be good to prototype it. thanksby ekaggrat - General
does that mean i cannot use teacup for now. or should i use it without lookahead? i tried temporal acceleration but with that the motor just dont move. Can it be used with a normal cartasian setup or is it meant only for a delta?by ekaggrat - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
i started testing the bot and hit a snag. teacup wont compile with different steps per mm for x and y .. Is that right ?by ekaggrat - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
PLA wont stick to a bare copper pcb , so i dont think this approach will work! a easier way is just to use a permanent marker to mark the traces ans then etch it.. the first ramps boards were made this way!by ekaggrat - Experimental and Hobby
for the z axis to get more resolution you could rap the string around a few times like the core xz approach of Nicholasby ekaggrat - CoreXY Machines
@gitsly do you have a video of the problem.. I have been using a 3dr since 1 year and i have had no stuttering as you say. i am using delta segments as 100. check you acceleration and jerkby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
i think the wiki is comprehensive and has a lot of information and the information is good enough for novices. If a person like me with no background in electronics is able to get 3 printers up and running from a bunch of parts ( not kits ) including a delta ( even the pcb is built by me ) then i don't see that it is incomplete. If you are looking for a kindergarten type instructions to put wheby ekaggrat - Developers
as i said if you want to go bald you can choose a crappy kit. personally i can source printer kits for as little as 300 euros as i live in beijing , and if i source from parts even the best parts will add up to only 200 euros excluding the hot ends. any kit other than robodigg if by far CRAP . also the kit from think3dprint3d is just 300 pounds. so y stick with bad chinese kits? kosselby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
just buy from robodigg. or makemicro.. all tried and tested by many people on this forum. the printer in the link is crap. also most chinese kits have crappy hotends and crappy power supplies so just order the hotend and psu separately from european/american sources if you dont want to go baldby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
use sicilone embedded nicrome wire the one they use in blankets. i made beds for both my printers this way ( total cost of wire 2 dollars ) , and run them on 220v ac via a ssr. Ihe wire is attached to the under side of aluminum 3mm plate and insulated with 10mm cork. This is the cheapest solution if you are looking to save money. Silicone pads are the best way around. ( use 220/110v ones, theyby ekaggrat - Developers
if the bend is not so much you can sand it down using a course sandpaper attached to a block. then mount 4 mm glass ( 2mm will bend ) on top of it using silicone thermal pads to take care of the rest of the bumps remaining.by ekaggrat - Reprappers
yes sure .. my first target is to get the plotter working using the default teacup Cartesian co ordinates . I am using a script to modify the Cartesian gcode to polar . Once i get it running properly i will then try modifying teacup kinematics. I am still waiting on some parts so it will be some time. thanksby ekaggrat - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
my plotter is a rotary x axis and a sliding y axis .. so y do i need segmentation ? why can t i use straight forward inverse kinematic equations to move it? thanksby ekaggrat - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
thanks , i have already seen the scara and delta branch. My bot is not based on scara but more polar and i am not using it for 3d printing but rather for plotting. Of all the firmware s i think teacup is the easiest to modify . I will look at corexy to see how the kinematics are implemented..by ekaggrat - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
i am trying to use teacup with a polar bot. For that i need to add new kinematics. Is the file dda.kinematics.c the place to do it?by ekaggrat - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
why did the gdr fail? it is because of the printed worm gears? would it work better with manufactured worm gears?by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
Does the reprapfirmware support delta mechanisms like the firepick delta?by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@altnelu cool work.. what ratio are you using? why is it difficult to calibrate? I have been long tempted to make a delta like this but have not found any successful examples!by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
a 12mm linear slide would do but that would be bit expensive.. for this purpose i would just use a normal drawer slide and cut it to sizeby ekaggrat - Mechanics
somebody built a similar machine but said he had a lot of calibration issues.by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
Finally done hackadayby ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
it can be just u will spend a long time doing it.. the arms are unequal .. the mag joints are unlevel. the rollers are wonky ...by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
buy a kossel from robodigg or t3p3(uk) i am not aware of us vendors. The robodigg machine is bullet proof ( literally ) all metal machine .. ( i have nothing to do with them fyi )by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
the k800 is a rubish machine. i have seen it personally with a lot of people here ( beijing ) and nobody is happy. the only way to fix it is change the rollers to actual derlin rollers meant for v-slots . and as for the magnets there is a lot of variation in the socketed magnets have a lot ov variation and it is impossible to calibarate the machine manually .. so you would need a probe and do autby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
a better way you can have a look at google groupsby ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
try making the bed lighter. ( use 5-6 mm plywood or 3mm fr4 )... a heavy bed will slow down your printing speedby ekaggrat - Reprappers
another way i used for sometime is to mount the spool on a 8/10 mm rod without the bearings. the spool will be eccentric so wont unwind so quickly !!by ekaggrat - Reprappers
The hotend design is flawed. Get a j-head or a e3d. Even a Chinese knock off is better than what u have.by ekaggrat - Mechanics