did some math in gear ratios , the ratio needed between the two rings is 1:12 the rest is easy to adjust in the attiny....by ekaggrat - Look what I made!
@dust Thanks i will give it a try .. The board is custom made for a small robot..It uses a 16mhz crystall and 22pf capacitorsby ekaggrat - Controllers
i have a strange problem with a board based on the atmega644p .. I am able to burn the sanguino bootloader using the arduino as the ISP. Also i am able to upload sketches directly without the bootloader again using the Arduino ISP . But if it try to upload sketches after uploading the bootloader using a FTDI board it gives me a error... I tried both the arduino 0.23 and the arduino1.0.1 and bothby ekaggrat - Controllers
Are the pcb files not available?by ekaggrat - Controllers
great prints though... I was contemplating on making one but it looks like it is hard to get the frame aligned perfectly ... Maybe a better solution would be to have a flat plate frame like a prusa i3 ... I dont know how much would that twist but that would be much easier to get the alignments right but won't look that cool thoughby ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
great prints but was more interested in seeing straight wall prints as that is what shows true layer (mis)alignmentby ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
can you post some pics of the quality of prints that come from the morgan?by ekaggrat - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
It is not recommended as a beginner project as there are things still changing ... link to the files filesby ekaggrat - Tantillus
i have a direct drive on my mendelmax and a bowden on my 3dr... The direct drive does have shadowing and rippling in it. The bowden has a problem that when you suddenly change speeds ... for example go from 70 mm/s infill layer to a 40mm/s solid layer you will see a little extra flow of filament causing bands to appear in the prints... The direct drive doesnot have this issue... I have the exactby ekaggrat - General
if you spent nine months fixing a prusa i3 ... get ready to spend 6-12 months on a delta... they are a lot more finicky specially if you don't get the frame right or you have a play in your joints .....by ekaggrat - General
the hydraraptor by nophead had a wire brush to clean the nozzle..by ekaggrat - General
link to aluminium spool amazon let me know what changes you want on the x axisby ekaggrat - Tantillus
@mondo super nice. I know a few changes are needed like using 625vv bearings , which would make the carriages even more compact. Also adding a guitar string tuner to the x carriage to tighten the strings and finally doubling the string on the z axis to prevent it from falling down... version 2 coming up then .... thanks for building tantilot . Can you post some sample print pics . Also i wouldby ekaggrat - Tantillus
do the filaments mix properly or do you get a toothpaste effect like richard's 3 way extruder ?by ekaggrat - General
super cool time to bring my active color mixing head to life.. was waiting for softwareby ekaggrat - General
@jaistanley in the simplest form if there is a syringe needle injecting ink at the tip of a hotend, would it work ? or is it necessary to inject ink before the filament gets melted?by ekaggrat - Developers
I had a old prusa i2 frame lying around as i used up most of the parts for my mendel max. I thought that a great way to bring it back to life would be to convert it to a corexz. That way it would get rid of all the z screw issues. I get a printable area of 190 x 200 with this setup. I have used 625vv bearings and 18mm aluminum spool. filesby ekaggrat - Developers
I had a old prusa i2 frame lying around as i used up most of the parts for my mendel max. I thought that a great way to bring it back to life would be to convert it to a corexz. That way it would get rid of all the z screw issues. I get a printable area of 190 x 200 with this setup. I have used 625vv bearings and 18mm aluminum spool. filesby ekaggrat - Developers
if you can get these you can modify the files for you. I got the 9mm balls from aliexpress but they are no longer available. printed balls wont work because they will never be perfectly spherical. one more way is you could try normal 9mm ball bearings and glue them to a socket fixed to the cf rod. ebayby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
there is a review of the sense 3d scanner on the ben heck you tube channel.. It is not very promising and you end up making a rig to make it workby ekaggrat - General
@replace the red adapter is actually not needed. My problem was that i had 9mm balls with M4 threads which left a clear hole of 3.5 mm .The cf rod was 4mm and wont fit hence the adapter. If can get threadless balls with 4mm hole u don't need a adapter. Just cut the rod to exact length and insert in the balls.by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
both printers need upgrades to need them to function properly.. the mendelmax suffers from z banding and needs a floating z axis upgrade to make good prints. The rostock suffers from bad u-joints which nned to be changed to a magnetic joint or a trarrax joint. The rostock with a upgrade will make far better prints than the mendel max any day.Even without a upgrade it is still better than a mendby ekaggrat - General Mendel Topics
hi, I was trying to find a quality compare of different machines printing at higher speeds ( 80mm/s and above ) and just could find any one. I think it would be good if people can post image of parts printed on their machines which have straight walls in them ( no pink panther women ) and are printed at speeds more than 80mm/s . I get people chiming about print quality of deltas but don't getby ekaggrat - Printing
@maso i used 9 mm balls with m4 threads in them . I also tried with plain 9mm balls. the problem is that plain balls are a little hard to align when glueing in place ( with a 6mm dia socket) . If you want to use plain balls use a bigger socket to glue in on the rods. also i would like to look at your print quality before and after the mod. I think there needs to be a post to compare prints froby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@TheTechnicalNoob do you have the link to the clock?by ekaggrat - General
@Xabbax The simplicity is just amazing. Only time will tell how long they last. The reason i converted to this was that the trarrax joints had some backlash in them which when tension-ed with springs made them unequal. This made the micro platform rock side to side. Interestingly though between the trarrax joints and this system i didn't see much change in print quality. The biggest differenceby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@andy sure they do. The simplicity is just amazing. Only time will tell how long they last. The reason i converted to this was that the trarrax joints had some backlash in them which when tension-ed with springs made them unequal. This made the micro platform rock side to side. Interestingly though between the trarrax joints and this system i didn't see much change in print quality. The biggestby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@andy, nka i finally got the springs to workby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
i finally got my 3dr converted to use the spring socket joints from andycart's cherry pi 3. They work a little better than the traxxas joints I had. files : thingiverseby ekaggrat - Delta Machines