got much improvement with a ducted fan. the one on the right is without a duct.by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@sheepdog thanks for the tips. i am using a gregs's extruder modified to using a mk8 hobbed gear. It has a lot of grip but it stil strips the filament at lower tempersatures. I even tried a spur gear with the same effect .I think the j-head needs a lot more force to push, so i have to use higher temperatures to keep the filament from stippping. I will try adding more fans . The problem with a aby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@ wildcard some prints this is the problematic print ...by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
how does everyone print complex objects like the one blow on their delta printers? The problem is that the bowden tube needs more force to push plastic so the temperature need to be higher to compensate for this. The higher temperature doesnot give the plastic enough time to cool even with a 50 mm fan blowing at full force. And if i lower the temperature the filament gets stripped because the forby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
glad to see that the plastic spools worked after all.. I would love to see the chinese clone extruder working without jamming.. IMHO just avoid it . It will never give you faster speeds and will inevitabley jam with PLA because the barrel is not so good in these things. ( some of them have a ptfe sleeve which makes them work better ) .. good luck with the MK8by ekaggrat - Reprappers
i have has success with printing on bare cast acrylic lately on a cold bed. It is just that the first layer temperature has to be right or it glues like hell to it. For the filament i have 190 -195 degrees works okay . Just need a spatula to pull the part out.by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
it can be salvaged if the hole dia left behind in the peek is less than the diameter of the brass block. ( been there done that . What you need to do is first clean the brass block of all the remaining plastic.. Then remove everything from the block. Next heat the block on a stove/propane torch/ hot air gun to above 150-200 degrees.. Then carefully screw the block in the peek and move it arounby ekaggrat - Reprappers
u used it as a direct drive extruder or a geared extruder? I used a raptor style gear on a geared extruder for sometime before the mk7 and it never failed . The only problem that it had was that it would kink some soft filaments sometimes which was frustrating.. The mk7 is flawless though. I have it on a gregs style extruder for over 2 years now.. Works great with any kind of filament.by ekaggrat - RepRap User Group - Toledo Ohio
i have a similar problem on my 3dr . but not this bad though .. it appears on thin wall vases .. The problem seem to be the j-head. Although mine is a good j-head clone ( same specs ) but i suspect it is still not upto the mark.. I ended up changing the extruder drive gear with the mk7 drive gear which works perfectly on my mendelmax. BUt still the problem persists. My next move will be to replacby ekaggrat - Printing
@rdm6 sure go ahead and build it . You will not regret it. But do use aluminium spools for the spectra lines.by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
the 3dr is great only if you get the parts printed perfectly .. If you have any warp or lift on the parts or your printer is not perfectly aligned you will have a mis aligned frame . Were as on the kossel even with mistakes in the print you can adjust the frame. Also for the kossel if you decide to go bigger later you can use the same printed parts again. IMHO avoid the spectra line if you canby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
the heat might damage the vinyl.. strangely it works well only on a glass surface below it.. it failed for me on a aluminum and a acrylic sheet below .. ( why i am avoiding glass is because i cant get anybody to cut 4mm glass in a 170mm hexagon shape for my 3dr ) I think the problem with a cold bed is that it is affected by ambient temperature. So on a warm/hot day the prints come out great but oby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@frankenfrankenstuff the texture is left by the vinyl sticker on the print surface @Radair i am able to source 2mm PEI sheet. I was just curious, is the PEI brittle? do i have to glue it to another surface or just use bull dog clips to hold it to the heated bed? thanksby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@radair printing on a hot surface is a piece of cake.. getting it right on a cold bed is harder in my experience as i have no access to the blue painters tape... I have tried all sorts of white paper tapes with pva on them and without pva, but getting the first layer right is very tricky. On my mendelmax I have a heated bed with glass on it .. for pla i apply pva to it and it works like a charmby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@bernabap great work. i tested on my android phone and it works perfectly. Only request i have is that is it possible to add a separate setting for the step/mm for z axis? thanksby ekaggrat - Developers
i have build a 3dr and use it. For the kind of modifications you want to do it would be better that you build a kossel mini .. The beauty of the 3DR lies in its simplicity . If you plan to change that might as well build a kossel as that is far easier to enclose . Regarding heated beds there are a few hexagonal beds made for the kossel mini which can be used on the 3DRby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@radair what is PEI . And are u using a hotbed or not?by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
i tried using kypton tape on 4mm cast acrylic ..It didnt stick at all. Next i brushed acetone on the kypton. The print stuck a little but curled up and came off mid print..by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@nicholas will wait for the final design files ...by ekaggrat - Developers
@nicholas thanks for the clarification .. I know a delta is a perfect setup and already have a 3dr delta .I was just curious to see a corexy machine's performance and wanted to build one just out of curiosity . i am now leaning more towards the core xz now.. Designwise is it possible that can be slimed down more and the frame be supported with some foldable extensions? thanks.by ekaggrat - Developers
0.1 -0.2mm error is acceptable but try to get it equal.. or live with x-y error... try printing a large cube 100 x 100 and see the error if it is percentile or absoluteby ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@ nicholas pardon my ignorance... Am i getting it right that it is bad to move the platform in the z direction but ok in the y direction ( prusa i3 ). Wasn't it the other way around ? What is the logic behind not moving the platform in the z direction? I was planning on building a corexy with a cable drive z like the tantillus , thinking it was a good solution but you got me confused.. reprapby ekaggrat - Developers
your frame is misaligned or twisted.. check all the diagonal measurements and get them eqaul..by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
@MrDoctorDIV did you try the vinyl on aluminum plate... The vinyl worked perfectly for me on a glass plate but strangely on a aluminum plate it just wont stick for more than 3 to 4 layers of print... Well back to blue painters tape i guess... or maybe vinyl on acrylic....by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
i have been experimenting with another material for the build surface.,. It is a vinyl sticker which has a texture like carbon fiber... The pla sticks great to in on a cold glass bed and comes out when the print cools down ..Also it leaves a nice carbon fiber texture on the base of the print.by ekaggrat - Delta Machines
sure i will make it once i get finish making the sanguish board.. I am trying to see how low in cost can i take the printer to and still keep quality and speed..by ekaggrat - Tantillus
This printer is mix match of a lot of printers based on the coreXY and the tantillus . My aim was to make a printer that was fast compact sturdy and neat. I have put all the parts of the printer within the frame and nothing sticks out except for the bowden cable. This saves the printer from breakage during transport and as a bonus it is easy to create a heated chamber. All the axis move using aby ekaggrat - Tantillus
well, lets see when you begin printing and have a face palm moment...by ekaggrat - Reprappers
you can get them here amazon i got my made at the local machine shop ... i have 7 spare ones but i dont know if i can mail it to you ,,, besides ... belts dont have so bad backlash specially gt2 belts .. other wise reprap printers wont exist...i have a mendelmax with gt2 belts and a 3dr with filament drive,. the print quality is similar... So i think the simplest way is to use belts...by ekaggrat - Reprappers
just use aluminum spools or a belt drive ... will save you a lot of pain in the end.... saying this from experience of trying all sorts of printed spools..and eventually getting aluminium ones...by ekaggrat - Reprappers