SZiv, I've added a third extruder to RAMPS, here is a simple tutorial on howto ... Regards, Edby ebraiman - Developers
For the money I prefer Hatchbox PLA.by ebraiman - General
Tttavi, This might help explained how to install switch endstops .... Regards, Edby ebraiman - General
You can setup a switching servo feed. Here is an example ...by ebraiman - Printing
Bobhare, I've had similar issues in the past and here are a couple of things you could try, Calibrate your extruder to extrude exactly amount. Here is a video that might help ... Check your temperature: Normally HatchBox PLA works best for me at 180c no heatbed on glass coated with Elmers water soluble glue stick You may also want to consider Slic3r Generate support mattierial is needed.by ebraiman - Printing
WatiDo, I've had similar issues with the Filament Runout funtionality. It appears to me, but has not yet been confirmed by others that use LCD screen and SD card cause issues, at least the two different methods I used to get it to work. Here are two youtube videos I made to help othesr having the same issue. Mechanical Endstop method: Optical Endstop Method: Let me know if this helps ...by ebraiman - Printing
You may also want to check filament retraction as it can cause wicking.by ebraiman - Printing
KD6Hq, What did you specify in Marlin FW 1.1.6 for LCD? I've been struggling like yourself on this issue with a RAMPS 1.4 configuration. By luck I tried different LCD panel from REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER to REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER. If it helps, I made a small video to document the steps I used. Regards, Edby ebraiman - Firmware - Marlin
E_tech_14, I'm guessing you looking to add more extruders to RAMPS1.4? If this is the case I have a video that might help .... It should in theory handle three, but I've only added 2 additional. Hope this helps. Regards, Edby ebraiman - Firmware - Marlin
Step 1 Do you know if you're connected to board? if you unsure of what's occurring, look up how to output USB devices for example, (https://github.com/todbot/usbSearch/blob/master/usbSearch.vbs) If there is no change between plugin device in and not, it means your USB device is fried on the Arduino board. If you have a multi-meter and time it's easy to fix. In my case I just buy another boarby ebraiman - General
It's possible to build a very nice Aluminum Prusa printer for under $300 US dollars. Approximate costs. 40.00 Diamond print head (maybe even less) 40.00 Prusa aluminum frame (Maybe even less) 40.00 Rails (Maybe even less) 20.00 Hardware (arduino/ramps/stepper extender) You have your own printer so parts should be easy to print for a Prusa.by ebraiman - General
Try Slic3r, select infill, fill density. Slic3r:by ebraiman - Tissue Engineering
Alfonso, I'm not an expert in 3d printer but should you explain why you need a high temperature print head? Are you printing metal? If you are printing metal you might want to consider using a Laser Sinter. Medical replacement organs has peaked my interest for a couple of years and I was thinking people might what to use peristaltic pump, so that they can match the genetics of the patientby ebraiman - Mechanics
אתה relize תוכל לפרסם את זה על Thingaverse.com ולקבל quoate. Regards, Edby ebraiman - Israel, Tel Aviv RepRap User Group
Josef, Extruder oozing: This generally means your temperature is too hot. Reduce your temperature by 2 degrees. Surface adherance Use Hatchbox PLA. Using Elmers Glue pen. Make sure your surface is level. This should solve you printer issues. Regards, Edby ebraiman - Reprappers
Logan, Do your thermistor show a temperature for print head and bed?by ebraiman - Reprappers