QuoteDust I just replicated your install without #6, got the same error. (missed something obvious) The issue is that you need to select the correct processor, you have a ATmega644 selected This is invalid, it needs to be a ATmega644p or ATmega1284p (ATmega 1284P on v1.5, ATmega 644P on v1.0 on a Azteeg X1) Ah, duh! I selected the correct processor and everything worked like clockwork. Thaby Pointedstick - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Ok, so the driver's voltage rating is referring to the incoming voltage and not the output motor voltage?by Pointedstick - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
On OS X (10.12 Sierra) I'm trying to get Marlin 1.1.0-RC7 to work for my Azteeg X1 board and I'm getting the following error when I try to compile it: In file included from sketch/pins_AZTEEG_X1.h:30:0, from sketch/pins.h:87, from sketch/MarlinConfig.h:33, from ~/Documents/3D_printing/Sketchbooks/Marlin-1.1.0-RC7-Azteeg-Blue-MendelMax/Marlin-1.by Pointedstick - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Most of the stepper motors we use for our machines are rated for low motor voltage (2-5v). However, most electronics seem to use high-voltage versions of the stepper drivers. For example the popular A4988 and its clones operate from 8-45v. Is there a reason why this isn't a problem, or should we instead be using low-voltage drivers like the DRV8834 (2.5-10.8v)? Am I missing something obvious?by Pointedstick - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I used to run techpaladin.com but got out of the business and I still have a huge amount of vitamins that represent my former stock and R&D equipment. It's all for sale. I've got assembled SDRAMPS kits, hundreds of bronze bushings and linear bearings, huge amounts of GT2 belts and pulleys, a buttload of fasteners, lots of threaded and smooth rods (precision ground), a bunch of NEMA 17 and 14by Pointedstick - For Sale
Robin2 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What is the minimum and maximum speed for > movement of the extruder head while it is > extruding plastic? Minimum: about 5 mm/sec. Any slower and the hot nozzle keeps too much heat on the parts. Max: depends on the filament, but about 200 mm/sec. In practice, this speed will be much slower due to accelerated moveby Pointedstick - General
The whole thing looks wobbly. Loose screws?by Pointedstick - General
Jeez, those machines still have jamming problems? Years ago my Thing-O-Matic's incessant jamming was what led me here. The Kuhling's Greg's Wade's extruder+Ubis hot end combination is about as close to perfection as I've ever seen; every single machine of mine that has uses this combination has had 100% reliable extrusion. It just. Never. Jams.by Pointedstick - General
Crussell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Check to see if you are exceeding the firmwares > max temperature. I had this problem when I started > using the cartridge, it would heat up so fast that > it would overshoot the target temperature and > overheat which would shut it off. Your host software's console should say something like "ERROR: maxtemp(by Pointedstick - General
BoriSpider Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > These > any good? 3/8" is 9.525mm; those are 8mm.by Pointedstick - General
If so, here's one for $19, at least:by Pointedstick - General
What diameter is your motor shaft? 5mm?by Pointedstick - General
RP Iron Man Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would use a silicone rubber heater as they > provide very even heating and are easier to find > in larger sizes. > > Eric Agreed. Any larger than 8x8 (200mmx200mm) and you're going to run into issues with power draw and heat-up time. Some electronics aren't equipped to push more than about 10 amps at 1by Pointedstick - General
No, you don't want to use lubrication on those bushings. I wonder if the bushings are starting to get worn out along one edge. Does the problem reproduce of you spin the bushings 180 degrees in their holders or move the bushings around to different holders? And what color are your bushings? Grey? If so, and they've been in service for a while, they may simply be wearing out. They don't last foreby Pointedstick - General
I don't think 3D printing is the right tool to use for this job--at least not all of it. You'd be better off trawling airport graveyards for broken engines you can scavenge for parts, or building a full-size replica using odds and ends, and 3D printing only small components that you can't easily fabricate out of something else.by Pointedstick - General
What hot ends are people using nowadays? I've been happily and successfully using Printrbot Ubis hot ends but would like to start printing materials like nylon that require more heat. Is the Magma hot end any good? J-heads wouldn't take that heat, not even with a fan cooling the barrel, right?by Pointedstick - General
Mickman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What's been extremely frustrating for me over the > past days is my prints look great if I nurse the > printer nozzle as it extrudes the first 2-3 > layers. Normally layer 1 is a complete mess.. I > use tweezers to quickly pull the entire mess away > since it just ends up in a birds nest floating > aboby Pointedstick - General
Keep the part orientation in mind too. Based on that pic, your mount is going to be weaker than it otherwise could be since upward force could cause the layers to delaminate; they're only held together by the bond between them and the adjoining layers. By contrast, if you printed the part rotated 90 degrees, then any forces exerted will have to actually rip the individual strands of plastic, whicby Pointedstick - General
Might Cura or Repetier-host run on your machine? I know Pronterface can be tricky to get working on older Macs due to python version mismatches. If you are trying Pronterface and post more details on what isn't working, we might be able to help you get it working. You shouldn't need Xcode for any of this. Also, are you able to upgrade to a newer version of the OS? If you can go to 10.7 or 10.8,by Pointedstick - General
Ponoko has a good reputation. I've never used them myself, but a buddy recently had them cut him a Y-carriage for a machine he was working on and was very satisfied with the price and quality.by Pointedstick - General
You might want to look into building a MendelMax 1.5 instead of an Ultimaker. You'll be able to keep your X-ends, X-carriage, extruder, hot end, smooth rods, belts, pulleys, bearings Z-threaded rods, electronic components, etc. Converting to an Ultimaker will require you to replace virtually everything but your electronic components. Might as well sell the Prusa and buy an Ultimaker!by Pointedstick - General
The best surface I have EVER used is PET tape on top of glass. The tape causes PLA to stick like the devil when heated, but come off easily when cool. The tape itself is also far, far more durable and easier to apply than kapton tape. In fact, I'm still using the same sheets now that I applied about 8 months ago. That's how long-lasting they are. Highly recommended. Ditch the blue tape; life's toby Pointedstick - General
adilerson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sliding pulleys, Ok! > Belts fastened, OK! > The drivers are turned up high enough? not > understand!! The driver boards that power your motors have little potentiometers on them that you can turn with a screwdriver (very carefully). The pots control the current being fed to the motor. More current = more pby Pointedstick - General
Those are some impressive projects, Hansjoerg. Welcome to the RepRap community! Are you thinking you'd like to get into 3D printing?by Pointedstick - General
If you want STLs, it's easy enough to just compile the .scad files, export your STLs, and forget all about OpenSCAD. Is FreeCad usable at this point? I tried it about a year ago but found it extremely buggy. If things have improved since then, I and probably many others would be happy to make the switch.by Pointedstick - General
I can sympathize. As a supplier myself, I know it's tough. But it's been my personal experience that most of those types of issues are preventable. For example, receiving an order for a product you don't actually have on a shelf somewhere at that moment is playing with fire. Maybe the shipment will be delayed, maybe you'll open the box and discover that the parts are faulty, or damaged in transiby Pointedstick - General
That all makes sense. Has anyone looked into like 9mm thick acrylic? That stuff is super hard and oughtn't bend much. I might try using Ponoko to get a Prusa frame and carriage cut from that. And heh, scads are the least of my problems. I'm pretty fluent in OpenSCAD by now. I just want all those nice luxury features that my MendelMaxes have spoiled me over!by Pointedstick - General
Thanks guys. Looks like going with a braced MDF frame might not have been the right way to start. I'll get an aluminum frame. Anyone know where one can be acquired relatively inexpensively? My initial attraction to wood and acrylic was for cost reasons; $80 and up for an aluminum frame seems punitive. I mean, for that much, I could get enough aluminum extrusions to build a MendelMax instead! Asby Pointedstick - General
After being a MendelMax man for quite some time, I've decided to build my first Prusa i3 and could use a bit of guidance. When I built my Prusa 2, the process went really smoothly. When I built all my MendelMaxes, the process went smoothly. But unfortunately I'm having quite a few issues getting my i3 assembled. The design... well... just seems kind of half-baked. A lot of the standard parts havby Pointedstick - General