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Re: Ceramic printing - 8 years ago
Hi, I think this field is still pretty much DIY, at least I haven't seen anyone selling kits or components for ceramic printing. Search for unfold or ttsalo, they have posted plenty of info on ceramic extrusion and moineau pumps. /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: Heat set 235, Print drops to 200 HELP!! - 8 years ago
QuoteRPearce there are no M104 or M109 commands in my G code That sounds quite strange, not even in the start g-code? It has to set the temp somewhere, or it would just use whatever temperature you have preset before you started the print (which isn't impossible, but not how most people print). By your description, it sure sounds like you have "m109 s200" (or similar) in the start g-code. Could aby anwe79 - General
Re: (MK2) PCB heatbeds vs silicone pads - 8 years ago
I've personally only used a kapton/polyimide heater. They seem to have only advantages except maybe for price/availability. They are light, thin, fast, reliable and come in many shapes. I use mine under an aluminum, heatsink grease, glass sandwich, printing directly on glass. Directly glued to glass you may get problems with uneven heating, not sure. /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: bah, I say, to ATX supplies - 8 years ago
QuoteAndrewBCN That is a rather blanket statement with a big "if". The fact is that at the moment, RepRap electronics are designed for 12V. If you want to use 24V you are pretty much in experimental territory and you'd better know what you are doing. Electricity and smoke often go together in my experience. Yes agreed, you need to check that every part on the printer can manage 24 V before goingby anwe79 - Developers
Re: bah, I say, to ATX supplies - 8 years ago
My main issue with ATX power supplys is that they don't come in 24 volt versions. The whole system benefits from higher voltages (if designed for it), so I don't consider The ATX route a viable option.by anwe79 - Developers
Re: Hot-end lining film idea - 8 years ago
Yep, the plastic is a fairly good thermal conductor, you're right. I originally stumbled over aquadag when i was investigating means to do diy through hole plating of pcbs. Graphite is a common base coat for plating non conductive surfaces. Revisiting that alley, I was thinking that one could possibly electroplate the internal bore to make an internal heatsink surface, that would connect to a traby anwe79 - Developers
Re: Hot-end lining film idea - 8 years ago
Ahh, waterglass? I hadn't thought of that but it sounds like a good combination. In the name of caution maybe try plain graphite first. Waterglass may be a bitch to remove (i don't know, maybe it's not that hard with heat?) I have a feeling plain graphite may be enough, if it's rubbed with suffcient force. Sort of like a pencil strike but rubbed onto the whole surface. It all comes down to surfacby anwe79 - Developers
Hot-end lining film idea - 8 years ago
Hi I think I've stumbled over a possible solution looking for a problem I've been thinking for a long while about hot-end construction and how to improve on current designs. So far it's all arm-chair engineering though. Anyway, my mind is hooked on using a ceramic insulator. I've seen the "Chess" one by hp_ but I haven't tried one yet, though I really like the design. Maybe it could be improveby anwe79 - Developers
Re: Most cost effective way to get single parts? - 9 years ago
It depends a bit on how your bot is configured, and what material the parts are made of. If your parts are PLA I'd highly recommend you print any parts that are exposed to heat first, and print them in ABS if you can. I learnt the hard way that PLA is not the ideal material for an X-carriage and extruder on a non-bowden cartesian bot. Other than those I personally haven't had any parts fail yetby anwe79 - General
Re: Arduino and G-Code
- 9 years ago
Disregard my reply above, it`s for a completely different thread. (weird, I'm positive I didn't post it to this one...)by anwe79 - Controllers
Re: informal poll... let's stick to dumb controllers - 9 years ago
If by 'dumb' you mean 8-bit arduino based, then I disagree. I much prefer my Smoothieboard to the Ramps I had before. Most of my reasons don't really have to do with processing power, but the overall usability of the board. That said I've tried stream printing over ethernet on it, and that feature is not really ready for 'production' use just yet. The software isn't as mature as e.g. Marlin yet bby anwe79 - General
Re: Dual Extruder - 9 years ago
Ok, on second thought a dual six axis setup is probably way overkill. This seems to be along the lines of what you may be looking for: There's probably room for improvement, say with a bowden feed to make the heads slimmer, and some type of wiper/stopper to battle stringing (which looks like one major obstacle to get good print quality). Personally I don't have any experience with that type ofby anwe79 - General
Re: Arduino and G-Code - 9 years ago
I've used an online viewer a few times and I quite like it, should work regardless of platform: /Andreasby anwe79 - Controllers
Re: Dual Extruder - 9 years ago
So if i get this right, you want to have two independent nozzles building on different spots of the same part simultaneously? Sounds like a real challenge... It probably rules out some printer topologies completely due to the requirement of dual independent heads. Traditional deltas and mendel style printers are probably right out. Maybe a dual 6-axis setup partnered with some hefty slicing/contby anwe79 - General
Re: Rebuilding Industrial 3D Printer - 9 years ago
If you're in luck they will have a step/dir/enable type interface which is very easy to work with together with common reprap hardware. Assuming the voltage levels are compatible, it could be as easy as hooking up wires to the correct terminals. Snap some pictures of the motor drivers and someone on here will probably be able to help you out. (It could be alot messier too with some type of propriby anwe79 - General
Re: Why did my PLA print start warping in middle of the print - 9 years ago
My bet would be insufficient cooling of the print. Can't really tell from the pics, but poor cooling leads to the top of the print curling/not setting properly, which will mess up more the further the print goes.by anwe79 - General
Re: Specific wire type for hot end and heated bed - 9 years ago
I would think there is no specific wire type that makes these problems go away, I would rather deal with it by careful wiring. Make sure that any bends to those wires do not stress a small length of wire. If the stress is distributed over a longer length of wire, the life span of the wire is greatly increased. That said, I would assume finer stranded wire would be less prone to fraying than coarsby anwe79 - Safety & Best Practices
Re: How to determine specs on a used machine? - 9 years ago
Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance at (a known) room temperature. You should be able to compare that value with the common types of resistors. To know for sure, also measure in ice water and boiling water for 0 and 100 degrees C. Those values are likely enough to narrow the possible thermistors down to one or very few types. /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: Best 3d printer board to date - 9 years ago
PS; You're more likely to burn a driver on the RAMPS because of the sloppy connectors most of them come with. The premium connectors with the Smoothieboard are locking and polarized, so won't wiggle loose as easily and you can't connect them the wrong way around (once you've wired them properly the first time that is). I'm not afiliated with anyone by the way. /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: Best 3d printer board to date - 9 years ago
QuoteRC-CnC anwe79...my only concern is if you burnout a stepper driver you have to replace the whole board. Panucatt has Azteeg X5 mini Yep that may be a concern, but they are actually quite hard to burn out. The only thing that will surely kill them is to disconnect the motors while powered. They have both short circuit protection and overtemp protection, so you can abuse them quite a bit withoby anwe79 - General
Re: Best 3d printer board to date - 9 years ago
My 2 cents: I would not consider RAMPS for a new build. My main objection is the messy wiring. Also, the Arduino platform it's running on is just about maxed out, there is little headroom for more advanced future features. The modular approach is clunky, and the stepper drivers are pretty damn hard to fry unless you do somethimg stupid like disconnect motors while powered. I've recently switchedby anwe79 - General
Re: Filament Change Tips - 9 years ago
Just a word of warning, the temperature recommendations in this thread seem to be on the high side. I can *extrude* PLA at about 160 degrees C. 270 degrees C will destroy your hot-end if it is PEEK-based. I'd say the safe way to do ths is to slowly heat up the hot end about 10 degrees C at a time, and pull gently until the filament releases. Start a little bit under the glass transition temperatuby anwe79 - Printing
Re: Scavenger List - 9 years ago
Mid 90's scanners can have smooth rods too, i have an old umax (i think), that isn't usable on modern OSes. Two 8mm rods plus bushings in that one. The stepper might be usable too, but not sure. Samsung ML-1600 series has an allegro 4984, but it might not be worth the effort to desolder, those chips aren't very expensive, and you'd still need to make you own pcb etc. (I dismantled it for the laseby anwe79 - General
Re: The Remoter - 9 years ago
How about some sort of escapement, but with cams instead of cogs to make the rotary motion smooth (and hopefully linear) across the travel of the mechanism? I'm not enitrely sure one could make that sort of mechanism completely smooth, but it doesn't seem unreasonable at first glance. I've been toying around with a roughly triangular bass pick, and it's fairly easy to make it rotate in one directby anwe79 - Mechanics
Re: Help needed on MendelMax 1.5 - 9 years ago
I'm not familiar with what's included with the kit. What controller board, firmware and host software are you using? Does the host software connect to the controller, i.e. do you get some response when the controller boots? /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: Sore throat and cough? new printer? - 9 years ago
My 2c; I'm not very worried about PLA, but ABS i think is another matter. Around christmas i printed a bright red ABS gnome for my nephew, and we both got irritated eyes and sore throats from the fumes. I'm thinking the bright coloring had something to do with it. I haven't printed much ABS before so not much to compare to, but that red stuff seems nasty. I'm building a carbon filter fume hood aby anwe79 - General
Re: Predatory Profit Margins - 9 years ago
It's quite simple. If someone is charging outrageous prices for something open source, more than likely someone else will see the opportunity and undercut them. The one charging outragous prices will probably need to adjust their prices or go bust. When you mix branding into it, all bets are off. People will pay anything for crap with a "cool" brand on it. /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: Prints randomly warping - 9 years ago
Just for he record, most reprappers refer to your problem as layer shifting, not warp (warp usually means the bottom/sides of the print has deformed due to uneven shrinking when the print cools). Your problem is likely due to one or more of a few causes. Check that your pulleys are fastened well to the motors (mark with felt tip pen across pulley and axle). Check current seings on drivers. both oby anwe79 - General
Re: Glass Heat Bed Adheasion - 9 years ago
There are apparently many different methods to get good results. Here's the one I use: 1. Spray mirror with a thin mist of window cleaner (I've used "Wizz" and no-name stuff, both worked well). 2. Wipe dry until literally squeaking with lint free cloth (I use a no-name "miracle" cloth, not quite lint free but good enough). 3. Leave no streaks whatsoever. Buff them out with the cloth. Having theby anwe79 - General
Re: PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME OUT. ASSEMBLE COMPLETED, PRINTER NOT WORKING!!! - 9 years ago
1. Fix your x-belt. This is how it's supposed to be: . They way you have it installed will ruin your belt prematurely and cause movement issues. 2. The messages you copied are just normal startup messages, printed at every start of the firmware. They list settings and information about your firmware configuration. You can ignore them for now, but when you feel up to it, read them through and trby anwe79 - General