Looking to sell my beloved MendelMax 1.5. Comes with everything needed to start printing today. Its fully assembled with RAMPS 1.4. Comes with 2 heated beds, a J-Head 0.5mm Nozzle, assorted spools of 0.5mm ABS, and an integrated power supply. Just got a job offer in another state and I do not want to bring the printer with me. My loss, your gain. I'd prefer not to ship since it's so heavyby Entropy - For Sale
I could be wrong but I don't think sprinter allows that function. Marlin (updated form of Sprinter, kinda) allows it. Take a look at the Sprinter firmware, in Marlin there is a fan section that sets up the PWM for fan speed control. Marlin is a much smoother firmware. I highly recommend it. Sprinter was good, but Marlin is much better in my opinion.by Entropy - General
GrabCAD is free to use. But it's not just .stl's, which may be a good or bad thing. Definitely a lot smaller than thingiverse, but for some reason whenever I want to find something that isn't "allowed" on thingiverse, it's on GrabCAD. i.e. AR-15 Lower If thingiverse goes paid membership, I'd be gone in a second and I imagine many others as well. Eventually a free version would pop up. Tby Entropy - General
I use one on my MendelMax 1.5. I run it off of my RAMPS 1.4 with an old XBOX 360 powersupply for both the hotend and the HBP. I was hoping it would heat up faster than my Prusa MK1 PCB heat bed. It takes about the same amount of time, maybe slightly faster. The one issue I have is the temperature is read at the end of the heater, not the center. So when my fan is on and cooling down the heby Entropy - General
> So how is the speed? I have acquired a faster DS > card and put the image on it. Was waiting for a > better USB power source that just arrived so will > be playing with mine over the weekend. > > Bob The speed is fine. When directly connected to the RPi the printer is controlled like normal. When through then VNC connection, there is a slight like, half a second or so, butby Entropy - Developers
Another update: Turns out it was my keyboard that was the problem. Swapped it out and have no issues now. I did set up a VNC connection between my RPi and Desktop. This allows me to remotely view my RPi's desktop. No monitor needed. So everything is all ready to go. The RPi is a full printing machine.by Entropy - Developers
Quick update. I've printed several times from my RPi. The one strange issue I have is my USB keyboard. I'm using a Legitech K120 (all the list of verified hardware). If I unplug my keyboard, I connect to my RAMPS 1.4 through pronterface instantly. If my keyboard is plugged in, connecting becomes an issue. Sometimes there will be not issue and it will connect. Other times I have to start upby Entropy - Developers
Thanks for the suggestion. After I saw this post I ordered some black off of ebay. Really works great.by Entropy - General
Just printed out the better nickel test stl. Here are my measurements: X slot: 21.21 Y slot: 21.22 Circle Diameter X axis: 21.08 Circle Diameter Y axis: 21.01 The nickel that I found has a diameter of 21.20 and would just barely fit through both of the slots and would not fit the hole. I then made an STL via OpenSCAD of a framed cube with interior wall lengths of 21.22 (to fit my nickel a lby Entropy - General
I agree that basing calibration off of a known standard is a good idea. I think that the polyhole "shrinkage" that I mentioned earlier makes it tough to design such a test around a circular object. You would be better off making a 21.xx square hole and made sure the coin fit in there. Take a look at Prusa's configurate.scad in the Prusa I2 git hub zip. It'll show how he over sizes the holes iby Entropy - General
While I don't have a nickel in front of me to measure, if 21.21mm is the actual size of the nickel, the hole will likely come out undersized on an accurately calibrated printer. This is due to the way these machines actually print holes. See Polyholes article for an explanation. If you then based your steps/mm on an undersized hole i.e.: The hole was supposed to come out 21.21 and only cameby Entropy - General
I see support is finally coming along. It is relatively usable now. Snaps off clean and everything, from my intital experiences. The new GUI is great too. I think it's organized pretty well. Love the ability to save the different settings seperately, Slic3r is definitely becoming a solid Skienforge alternative.by Entropy - General
I can't tell by the picture. But circle issues usually indicate either improperly calibrated steps for one or each of the axis or a backlash problem. Possible to get a better pic?by Entropy - General
I agree with Sublime. Because of the way curves are produced on these types of machines, (read Nopeheads work on poly holes) the hole for the nickel will likely be printed smaller than the dimensions laid out in the design. This would not be an accurate way to calculate the number of steps needed. There are plenty of other much more accurate calibration STL's on thingiverse.by Entropy - General
Here is a quick tutorial on Slic3r installation. Thanks to anwe79 for the help with the extra dependencies needed. This should get your RPi slicing.by Entropy - Developers
From my previous experiences with Slic3r, it will save the config file (if done from the slic3r GUI) to which every folder you last sliced from. Or atleast thats the ways it's working on my windows and mac computers. If you are slicing from Pronterface GUI then it has it's own config settings. I am always tinkering with my settings so I always use the slic3r GUI to do my slicing. Take noteby Entropy - Developers
Oh yeah, Slic3r is loads faster than Skeinforge. Even on a fast computer Skeinforge takes forever. Slic3r never takes more than a minute or two at most. (Usually a few seconds) I'm sure it'll be slower on the Pi but atleast it's feasible. I will try and install Slic3r tonight. I will put together another quick "tutorial" on the steps for anyone interested in the future. I'd love to getby Entropy - Developers
I will mess around when I get home tonight. Are all of those dependencies available from the repository? Or do I need to find them else where?by Entropy - Developers
I think the delays were due to faulty power on my USB hub. I've got it running good now, without the delays. Sometimes it has trouble connecting, but it eventually gets there. I put together a blog post real quick, (I'll update more tomorrow) but this explains the process I went through to get it working. Relatively straight forward if you're a previous Linux user, but might be a little morby Entropy - Developers
I'm running at 115200. 250K wouldn't connect (even on the new Raspbian distro). I think my issue was a power supply problem. My RPi was running on a 700mA PS and I think I needed more. I have a 2A one to try today. I noticed when I was using my wired keyboard, mouse, and printer that the lights on my keyboard (caps lock num lock etc) would go on and off. Although I'm using a powered USBby Entropy - Developers
Inspired by RichRap's progress, I installed Pronterface on my RPi tonight. I have the new Raspbian distro running. Took a while to obtain all of the dependencies needed, mostly because Linux is relatively new to me. But it is up and running. My only issue is the speed. It seems like there is a 15 to 30 second delay on most commands. Haven't printed with it yet but will try it out tomorrow.by Entropy - Developers
Just out of curiosity, where does everyone get their ATX PSU with screw terminals?by Entropy - General
Any update on this project?by Entropy - General
It is common for the firmware to slow down printing while it waits for the buffer to refill with serial data coming from the host software. Not sure which firmware you are using, but Marlin purposely does this. It doesn't looke like a problem to me. If you have the option on your firmware, you can increase your buffer size slightly. The only other way around this is to print directly from anby Entropy - General
New Lower Price! eBay Listing!by Entropy - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Agreed. Too low of a fist layer. I usually leave the thickness of a sheet of paper between my extruder and the bed.by Entropy - General
Simon from Repraper got back to me. Asked me to take some pictures and to lower the temperature. I've tried as low as 210, the lowest I can go before my extruder stops extruding properly. Hopefully they handle it better than the last company.by Entropy - General
Not sure if the problem is air or moisture. If I had a good way to photograph it I would. But tiny little bubbles every where. I'm batting a thousand here. I've actually heard good things about them as well. The dark blue glow in the dark is what I bought.by Entropy - General
I'm not sure what the odds of this are but I've gotten another roll of filament with air in it. This time from the Reprap-Walmart, the chinese filament distributor. Now I didn't exactly have high hopes but the blue glow in the dark ABS that I bought is literally spewing out tiny air bubbles. The bubbles are small enough that you can still print with it, it just gives a terrible finish. Anyoby Entropy - General
I saw this, but didn't see a video of them working. So I was a little hesitant.by Entropy - General