It's hard to diagnose without a seeing video of the behavior, picture of an affected print, or your firmware and print settings. That said, I would probably start by verifying that the voltage is set correctly on the stepper driver and, so long as it is, try changing the print speed in your slicing software.by stonedcoldskier - General
Thank you, the_digital_dentist, for chiming in. Your posts and developments have provided much of the inspiration for this next round of upgrades. The heater draws about 24.5A at 12.8V, so it's just over 300W and .33W/cm^2. I'm tempted to try it just because I have the heater on hand and it is easily undone if it doesn't prove adequate. While I have your ear, have you posted any pictures of yourby stonedcoldskier - Reprappers
I would imagine that I could research it and do some math, but do you think the heat-up time for 6.35mm aluminum would really be that much greater than my current 4mm borosilicate glass + 1.2mm PEI sheet?by stonedcoldskier - Reprappers
I'm going to make some upgrades to my TAZ clone, and I would like to use a piece of 1/4" Mic-6 aluminum as a build plate. I have a 12" x 12" MK2-type PCB heater that I have been using under glass/PEI and it has been working just fine for me. My plan is to adhere it to the underside of the 1/4" plate using some 3M 468MP adhesive sheet and I may try to get fancy by using a vacuum bag for clamping pby stonedcoldskier - Reprappers
I've been following this thread and it has certainly piqued my curiosity. It seems as though the final goal is kind of a moving target here. Ultimately, what do you expect your customers to be making on these machines? Are you targeting them towards any specific product or industry? Most of us are skeptical, but it seems that everyone is willing to help and I doubt that anyone is looking to stealby stonedcoldskier - General
Any crimpers will work just fine. The pair I have is very similar to these and I have been using them successfully for years. I'm sure that there are plenty of youtube videos that will show you how to do it correctly. Search for a "d-sub crimping tool" and you'll find a bunch for around $10. As far as the extraction tool is concerned, an X-acto knife is all you will ever need. The holding tabs onby stonedcoldskier - General
I have done this with a 60mm Nema 17 stepper motor, Mk8 drive gear, and an original J-head with a 0.5mm nozzle. It worked okay at for simple prints that did not have many retraction moves, but it would skip steps if you pushed it too far by making too many direction changes too quickly. It probably all depends on what you're printing and just how fast you want to print it. I have since gone backby stonedcoldskier - General
Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 series, specifically part number 0430200600. Molex websiteby stonedcoldskier - General
QuoteFrans@France Maybe try this mostly (3d) printed CNC which can also be extended to be used as an 3d printer I'm surprised that nobody has picked up on this. Based on the size requirements, budget, and stationary bed, the Mostly Printed CNC Machine could be the best platform for this project. It is easily scalable in all dimensions and the rails can easily be supported for longer spans. Eveby stonedcoldskier - General
I'm selling 12" x 12" sheets of 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, as specified in the RepRap Wiki, in order to adhere your PEI/Ultem build surface to a glass plate. I bought them from an office supply surplus company and ended up with a liftetime supply. I have used 2 of these sheets, so far, and they worked beautifully for me. I'm going to keep a few for future projects, but have some up for grabby stonedcoldskier - For Sale
I haven't experienced this problem specifically, but are you using the most recent version of the Marlin firmware? I was tearing my hair out a few months ago, only to find that there were bugs discovered in the G29 command. An update to the latest version of the firmware fixed everything for me. If that's not the case, please post your configuration.h file so we that can have a look.by stonedcoldskier - General
The best suppliers I have found are boltdepot.com and mrmetric.com. Both offer great pricing on single quantities and 100-pc boxes. Every time I need one or two of something, I buy 4 or 6. After building 4 repraps, I have amassed a selection that would rival most hardware stores.by stonedcoldskier - Reprappers
Shielded cable seems to have done the trick... Thanks ggherbaz!by stonedcoldskier - General
Somewhere around .24 might work well, but your actual optimal layer height depends on your lead-screws as much as (or more than) your nozzle diameter. Check out Josef Prusa's calculator for Optimal Layer Height.by stonedcoldskier - General
CDRU - I am feeding the 5V circuit through a 7805 Voltage regulator, stepped down from my 12v supply. ggherbaz- I have a .33uf capacitor on the 12v input to the 7805, and a .10uf capacitor on the 5v output. I'm far from an electronics expert, so I was following someone else's lead. Is this sufficient? I can certainly change to a shielded cable this evening and report back. I guess my biggest qby stonedcoldskier - General
I have been using the auto bed level compensation with an RC servo attached to my RAMPS 1.4 setup for quite a while. Yesterday, I happened to be in the room for a while during a print, and noticed that the bed leveling servo was moving up and down slightly during the print. It never dipped down below the nozzle, but I have never seen it do this before. Fast forward a few hours, and a subsequent pby stonedcoldskier - General
Hi Bob, I happened to log in and see that you have resurrected this topic. My original TAZ clone was built arount their Taz 2 and Taz 3 design which included 1-piece, printed arches at the front and rear. Interestingly enough, I ended up having to replace one and opted for the updated design. I created my own printed "arch" plates which make up the 4-piece Y-ends used on the current design. I haby stonedcoldskier - General Mendel Topics
Mine are from Robotdigg, for future reference.by stonedcoldskier - General
I may have some extra cables, will have to take a look in my kit later this evening. Are you in the U.S.?by stonedcoldskier - General
For anyone who happens upon this thread with a similar issue: It seems that Marlin Issue #1262 was the problem that I was experiencing. Updating to the latest development version has solved the problem.by stonedcoldskier - Firmware - mainstream and related support
You raise a very valid point, but I think there may be more at play. Part of the printer is unsupported where I have it, and the Ultem bed surface is not completely flat. In that run, I had to trigger the endstop manually at the last point because it was approaching a binder clip, but I have had this problem in other runs that only show about 1.2mm deviation (in X, and in Y) across the entire surby stonedcoldskier - Firmware - mainstream and related support
So I'm still fighting with this and have yet to find the solution. I did run my bed-leveling g-code line by line, and it seems that the positional awareness is somehow changed at the end of the G29 sequence. All points are probed where they should be, and the last probing point is X=40, Y=265. Without moving from that point, the X/Y offset is then applied, and polling with M114 reveals that the pby stonedcoldskier - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Tried that... saw another post about floating numbers and was hoping that would make the difference. It did not.by stonedcoldskier - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Attached Configuration.h, G-Code shown below. Can anyone tell why this is happening? The printer thinks that it is probing points at X=40, when those points are acutally at about X=20. M203 X50 Y50 Z4 ; set max rapid rates mm per sec G91; set to incremental motion G1 Z15.0 F3000; raise Z G90; set to absolute motion G28 X0 Y0; home X and Y axes G1 X252 F3000; go to probe deployment position G1 X2by stonedcoldskier - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I apologize for not having my configuration.h file and g-code script with me here at work, but this problem has been troubling me and I have a moment to put this question out to the community... I had been using automatic bed leveling compensation successfully for several months. I use the toggle with slide activator system made by "1013" for the Lulzbot Taz (here). I start each file with a custby stonedcoldskier - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I was frustrated for 2 years by printing ABS on glass, kapton, and PET films. I tried the ABS juice and just about everything else I could think of or had read about, but still had issues of warping and poor bed adhesion. ALL of my ABS problems have been solved by using "Ultem" or PEI sheets as a substrate. I was reluctant to spend the $50.00 on a 12"x12", 1/8" thick piece of Ultem sheet stock, bby stonedcoldskier - Printing
If you're using a RAMPS board, it looks like you'll need to change your motherobard setting. You're current motherboard is set to Ultimaker. // The following define selects which electronics board you have. // Please choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup #ifndef MOTHERBOARD #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_ULTIMAKER #endif Look at the boards.h file to find the board that correspondby stonedcoldskier - Prusa i3 and variants
I love this design, very clever indeed. I've been looking at the slides and thinking they might be the perfect application for the IGUS Tribo-Glide filament. Igus is sending out free 25g samples, so it may be worth a try. Keep the pics coming, this is a great build!by stonedcoldskier - Reprappers
Are you using metric or imperial threaded rods for your z-axis? Also, what are you using for a layer height? If your layer height is incompatible with your thread pitch, it will result in a fractional number of steps which your motors will not be able to achieve. That can give you the fat layer, skinny layer, fat layer, effect that you're seeing. Take a look at Prusa's calculator and work out youby stonedcoldskier - Reprappers
Torque will matter to some degree, but mostly on the extruder. So long as your steppers are 35in/oz or better, and you're using a geared extruder, you shouldn't have any issues. As far as individually tuning them, your stepper drivers will have trimmable potentiometers on them which you will be able to turn to increase or decrease their voltage. Can you post pictures or part numbers? I would imagby stonedcoldskier - Reprappers