Figure 4 for the x motion doesn't look feasible. If the motor moves the belt distance dx, pulleys 90 & 96 will attempt to move the carriage dx/4. Meanwhile pulley 102 will try and move the carriage dx/2. Seems like trouble.by tray - Mechanics
You've checked the PTFE liner? They slowly decompose, moreso above PLA temps, and can pinch down and cause troubles. Jams from making the replacement liner a little too short or not fully inserted are not uncommon. Not sure about the V6, but my hot end is quite fussy about how far the heat break tube is screwed into the heater block - not far enough, and the nozzle seats against the heater blockby tray - General
Here's a filleted cylinder tool like enif's, but should run faster: module fillet_cylinder( r, // cylinder radius h, // cylinder height b=0, // bottom chamfer radius (=0 none, >0 outside, <0 inside) t=0, // top chamfer radius (=0 none, >0 outside, <0 inside, deg=10 // degrees per rib of fillet ) rotate_extrude() polygon(concat([[0,h],[0,0]], ) ], //bby tray - OpenSCAD
Maybe a wire wheel brush with a ratchet? So it would rotate a bit when the nozzle goes forward, pushing the wheel over a cleaning scraper. Coming back through the brush, the brush would stay still, hopefully cleaning the nozzle. Dunno.by tray - General
Thanks for the update! Right, getting to done with the kickstarter campaign comes first.by tray - General
Any news on bringing this promising extruder to market?by tray - General
Have you tried varying speed and temperature? The Inland PETG I print with, if I use my fast settings, prints comes out matte and milky, but with slower settings comes out shinier and clearer. The effect may/may not be the same in PLA.by tray - General
Just a spectator this year - have to travel light, but looking forward to it.by tray - General
Last I dealt with smoothieware, which was shortly after 6 axis support was added, it was 6 axis OR use extruders, as the board didn't have enough memory for the planning queue. The smoothieware tenders said maybe you could turn off enough other features to fit it, but sounded doubtful. I don't know if things have changed since. QuoteDust Since dc42 dragged 32bit boards into the conversation I hby tray - General
Keeping GCode variants as close as possible is admirable so that CAM tools can be saner to implement. >See whether there is an existing G- or M-Code defined in either of those standards To make that as easy as possible, why not list any missing NISTIR 6556 codes on the reprap page? Most of them are likely already there. >The original NIST CNC Gcode standard Not to quibble here, but NIby tray - General
I'd love to see a simple lightweight hot end too. I want say some reprapper was looking into sensing the heating element a few years ago. (In fact, this whole thread feels 5-10 years old.) If weight is the primary concern, PT100 sensors can be quite small, light and have a small time constant. Just to pick a random part, the Heraeus M222 Pt 100 is < 4 mm^3 and good to 500C. (part 32208548) Thby tray - General
@TheHackerArtist, do you have sufficiently large pulleys to avoid wire fatigue? I did an (as yet unbuilt) design a few years back, and I recall the charts saying I needed bigger pulleys for wire gauge I felt I needed. (Unfortunately, I don't recall the specifics.)by tray - Developers
Quotethe_digital_dentist Adjusting those screws almost guarantees that you're going to bend the plate and the support structure in most designs I'll take the unpopular position that 4 screw isn't necessarily an error. When you're done leveling, each of the 4 point should be equidistant form the nozzle at the commanded height. If (and that's a very big if) your Y carriages have no twist, then youby tray - Developers
If you can, do the final tensioning by adjusting the motor or pulley mount. This is one of the reasons slotted rail is so handy. Another popular trick is to remove all but one screw from the motor so that that the motor can rotate in the mount, attach your belt ends at the right length, pivot the motor back into place, and replace motor screws. Also, here's how Prusa3d does it: Tighten Y Axisby tray - Reprappers
For clearer prints, be sure to experiment with speed, which affects clarity of some filaments. Mark Wheaton has exploited this with "velocity painting" to good effect... Velocity painting on Githubby tray - Reprappers
QuoteJamesK ... I thought I'd give a mention to the HP server power supplies. ... Mine required some minimum load to regulate reliably - the dirty power it delivered fried a stepper driver capacitor for me. Adding a ballast resistor across the supply quieted that down. However the fan was very noisy, so ended up moving away from these. Left with these 2 boat anchors as souvenirs.by tray - Reprappers
Anyone have experience with clip bearings? specifically Igus iglide clip bearings. Igus web page I'm looking to resuscitate a worn out printer where the manufacturer foolishly had the Y carriage ride directly on the rods. Not surprisingly, it developed slop way too early. It's too tight to squeeze in lm8uu bearings, and clip bearings might be a practical alternative if the carriages aren't tooby tray - General
Anyone have experience with supported rail in a 3d printer enclosure? Gut instinct is that steel rail bonded to an aluminum strip forms a bimetallic strip that will curl as it warms up due to the difference in CTE. Depends how the two pieces were attached, I suppose, which most listings don't specify.by tray - Developers
QuoteNEATman I just saw this crazy motion simulator: I know it is much more complexity with 8 winches, but I thought it may inspire more ideas. Keith 6 motors is enough. The "Spike" printer from a few years ago is a 6 line masted winchbot. Meet Spike. Anatoly Makarevich proposed a parallelgram based version that lowers the motor count further, and these inspired the Sky delta.by tray - General
Quotephotografr7 If Nichrome wire is heated in a vacuum to 300-400C, what color will it glow? Black body radiation color is independent of material. 400C looks dimly red in the dark. Temperature chartby tray - General
If you're running the 2015.03 release or later and want arbitrary bend angles, this works better... elbowinator(angle=135, bendRadius=33) wall2D(thickness=3) circle(r=8); module wall2D(thickness) difference() { offset(thickness) children(0); children(0); } module elbowinator(angle, bendRadius, clipBounds=1000, convexity=4) intersection(convexity=convexity) {by tray - General
There's another approach that some find more intuitive - draw the desired cross section in 2D, then extrude into 3D and clip to 90 degrees. Something like: elbow(innerRadius=8, outerRadius=11, bendRadius=33); module elbow(innerRadius, outerRadius, bendRadius) { intersection() { rotate_extrude() translate() difference() { circle(outerRadius); circle(innerRadius);by tray - General
Very cool! I started something similar, but didn't get past forming the tip. I (unsuccessfully) tried using a pair of tilted bearings to roll down the tip, but the wall cracked. Plan B was to braze in a small tip, which also allows the end to have a shoulder surface to squish with. (Have the 50N solder and milk of magnesia, but haven't gotten to it yet.) Did you need to anneal the tip along the wby tray - Look what I made!
Knowing what they're called is the big battle... Likely a PH series connector by J.S.T. Mfg. Co. (Japan Solderless Terminal), 2mm pitch, but you should really confirm in the motor specs. Search for "JST 2mm PH 6 pin" on ebay, aliexpress, or your favorite vendor. It's easiest to get precrimped harnesses. (I've heard they are much harder to crimp properly than 0.1" connectors, but I haven't triedby tray - General
QuoteSupraGuy so much better to go with a geared down extruder and just be done with it. That buys you some backlash as well, but it is a well travelled route. Wasn't there a kickstarter in the last year that had a hobbed stepper as part of their fancy new extruder? Don't remember which one, or whether it completed or worked.by tray - Reprappers
Let us know how your quartz tube works out, ggherbaz. My own pipe dream is to modify a 12 gauge all-stainless glue dispensing tip into a hot end. The inside of the barrel has a mirror finish and comes with a luer lock attached for mounting. Rough idea: Braze the luer lock to the tube, copper fins next to that, and the nozzle inside the tip. Add a thin sodium silicate coating to insulate, wrap iby tray - Developers
Not all metals act the same with plastics. For example, mechguru lists steel/PTFE at twice the coeficient of friction as chromimum/PTFE. I haven't yet found data for the materials and temperatures we care about.by tray - Developers
When I hear people say that stainless has higher friction compared to brass as a hotend lining, I assume they mean the material, not the machining. pushthatbolder, barrel friction is enough of an issue that e3d added a teflon liner in their v6 hot end. A teflon liner won't work in my case. It will have a very nice surface finish, so that may be enough for some materials.by tray - Developers
Perhaps there's a easier material, but stainless presents an attractive design compromise compared to other available metals, so many hot ends use it. Plating might be a simple way to improve that compromise.by tray - Developers
I've heard that while stainless is good for a hot end, it's somewhat sticky for hot plastic, particularly PLA. Has anyone experimented with plating the bore with another metal to reduce friction? If so, what would be a good choice? (slippery, and compatible with a nontoxic electrolyte)by tray - Developers