This is a nice project, please keep us updated about what you are building. I think that for electronics and battery, you could use packs designed for electric bicycle as the specs will be very similar to what you require. Then you need to find a motor with compatible power and voltage. Once you are done with purchases, you can focus on intergrating the whole thing into your scooter, that's a serby dewasa - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Quotetylerl I'm building an XYZ machine out of extruded aluminum and briefly but seriously considered v-slot. But it turns out that the cost of the wheels alone (at almost $5 each!) quickly got out of hand and became the single most expensive component of the whole project. You don't have to pay 5$ per wheel, this is the price for the package : wheel + bearings + Shim.You can buy the wheel aloneby dewasa - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotedc42 Power the printer and the attached PC and nothing else from the same power distribution block. Indeed, I had a similar issue when the printer was installed on a plug in my kitchen; then I installed the printer in the living room and everything was solved.by dewasa - Printing
Did anyone tried to build a light direct drive multi-extruder carriage? I am thinking about ways to drive 3 or 4 extruders with the same stepper motor.by dewasa - Developers
QuoteEpop I print mostly ABS. my headache remover has been a controlled chamber heated to 60-80c. HTH. I am actually very curious about how you manage to make a heated chamber that can go up to 80 degrees. Did you find a way to have all your motors and all your electronic out of the chamber? Because I imagine that a stepper motor in 80 degrees air don't have a very long life expectancyby dewasa - Printing
Maybe the head moves in an unexpected way when it reaches a damaged portion of the rod carrying the axis? Did you try to move your X-axis manually? Is it moving smoothly all the way?by dewasa - Printing
If each of your motor is connected to a different driver, try to invert the driver to see if the problem persists.by dewasa - Printing
QuoteKurzaa I have never played with auto-level, went with a delta rather than cartesian printer. However my first thought was that perhaps the results from the leveling process were not being saved. So issuing a G28 to home the axis at the start of print (part of the sliced g-code) is clearing the results of the auto-level routine. Yes, the purpose of homing is to set the position as x=0,y=0,z=by dewasa - Printing
Indeed !!! I was looking on filament setting tab, while the selection of filament per extruder was on the plater tab... And, as expected, the second extruder had the default 3mm filament selected. Thanks a lot fixerT Problem is solved.by dewasa - Printing
Well, both steppers and nozzles are fine, because they both work well when plugged as E0, and they are both faulty when plugged as E1 : I figured that out when I reversed board connections. I had little time to do further testing (I started a print with Cura sliced object and it seemed all right), but my assomption is that there is something wrong with the slicer. Do anyone knows about a feedratby dewasa - Printing
I'm setting up a dual extrusion printer, one head is printing well while the other one have not enough feedrate, putting much thinner lines of plastic (about half the size of the expected amount). I am using the latest version of marlin, Ramps 1.4 and pololulu stepper drivers; the slicer is slic3r 1.2.9. I tried to figure out the source of the issue by doing this: - switching extruders + hotendby dewasa - Printing
For a big piece made out of ABS it is really hard to avoid warping, but with PLA you should be fine, you don't need a hitting chamber or a very complex / expensive solution. First try to decrease the first layer speed and increase width. Printing at 20mm/s with 150 to 200% layer width (only for the first layer) should make things better. If you still have warping, then you should probably consiby dewasa - Printing
Would there be a chance that the print fails depending on bed temperature settings? The bed could bend when getting to 120°C in order to print ABS but be fine when printing PLA at 60°C.by dewasa - Printing
Hello, Did you properly set the distance between the nozzle and the bed leveling probe in the firmware? if this distance is very wrong, for instance -50mm instead of 50mm in one axis, then I guess it could cause an issue similar to what you describe. David.by dewasa - Printing
Yes you are right, the fact that you can turn the X motor easily while the other motors are blocked by the current is a clue. What did happened when the printer first stopped working? Was it just after a print finished? After a period of inactivity? Did you unplugged any device while the printer was on? Did you get any message in the pronterface console?by dewasa - Reprappers
What about a cascade of two extruders? If you put two one after the other and the two steppers are wired to the same driver, then wouldn't it double the tork ? And a simple extruder is cheap: stepper, gear, V bearing, spring and few printed parts. Or another solution would be to put two gears :each pressing on one side of the filament. Each bolt having its own stepper, both steppers facing eachby dewasa - Reprappers
Hello, Adding a second extruder is possible with modifying just a little bit the hardware of the machine. I would advice you to iterate: you could take in account the extra length needed in the machine design and start just with a single extruder. Then, when you are confortable with the printer and able to make nice print (it already takes a lot of time and effort), you could actually print yourby dewasa - Reprappers
Thank you, I find this conversation very interesting. I am wondering, so when you get longer bowden cable, what turn out to be the bottleneck of the system: is it the hysteresis or the force required to push the filament? For the hysteresis I don't know, but if you need more torque, there is always a solution.by dewasa - Reprappers
Hello, Well, if it was just the X driver, then the Y driver pluged into the X slot would have worked but it didn't. Did the problem started right after the X axis crash? For electronics, either it dies during the crash or it survives, I don't think you can have problem afterwards. But what about the mecanics? Can you move the X-axis by yourself? Is there a chance it got stuck for some reason?by dewasa - Reprappers
Hello, Also, be careful about the step per millimeters you set in the firmware. If not well configured, you might ask your steppers to turn much faster than then can; then they will vibrate or turn randomly in any direction. Without the jumpers, you don't have micro-stepping, the printer will work but the steps per millimeter setting should be 16 times smaller, you get the same issue: motor turnby dewasa - Reprappers
Hello, There is a design that works quite well for the extruder, with a bearing + spring in order to push the filament against the gear; random example: There are other designs that don't work that well and need a lot of torque in order to initiate movement. Could you upload a picture of your extruder please?by dewasa - Reprappers
Hello, Indeed, the pitch of M5 screw is 0.8mm while M8 screws have 1.25mm pitch, which explain the problem. Here is a tool enabling you to calculate your new STEPS_PER_MM parameter. In order to change your STEP_PER_MM, you have two methods: - Using gcode : It is simple and useful in order to check that the new configuration is fine before storing it in the firmware. Just prompt "M92 Z2560by dewasa - Reprappers