Maybe they don't use them because most printers never experience jamming problems? It hasn't happened yet on my home built printer, after years and many spools. The worst was hearing a missed step from time to time while using Filaflex or printing the first layer too close from the bed.by kr_ - General
Quotemarcos.santiago.de hello !, this is my first post in this forum, I wanted to ask about if you managed to implement the encoders and if marlin allowed you to modify the firmware easily, my final project will deal with this, thank you very much for your answers. I've been using the closed loop steppers from Misfittech for a few years already, with Marlin on a Mega2560 with RAMPS1.4. They don'by kr_ - Firmware - Marlin
If this can help, I modified Marlin 1 a long time ago to write spool usage in a small database on an external 24LC256. I'm using a good old Mega2560 with RAMPS1.4. It's communicating with the EPROM by I2C. I attached the modified firmware. You can reuse eepromi2c.h and write some code inspired by how it's used in Marlin_main.cpp (look for EXTEEPROM in the code)by kr_ - Developers
I'm printing with materials that don't require to put any chemical for adhesion on glass, like PLA or Filaflex. I only heat it up and print with a 4 mm skirt for some parts.by kr_ - Reprappers
I've had that happening for various reasons too: 1 - Insufficient heatbreak cooling. The plastic was getting soft and expended before the heated block and less came out, especially after non printing moves. I added a fan. 2 - Too much retract, but you tried that one 3 - Bad nozzle assembly. There was a gap between a tiny PTFE tube's extremity and the heated block. 4 - A slipping extruder drive geby kr_ - Reprappers
This means your steppers are skipping steps. I've had this happening for various reasons, some being linked. 1 - Driver over heating : add a heat-sink and set the current below manufacturer's specifications. There are tutorials for this. 2 - Too high acceleration and jerk : this produces shocks, especially on sharp trajectory changes. Patterns like this can also be seen if these are too high :by kr_ - Reprappers
QuoteDark Alchemist Something I do find odd about the real J-Head and that is it uses Peek and peek has a Tg of 143c and I am printing at 235-250c all of the time so you would think it would get very soft. The melting point of Peek is ~343c so another 100c, roughly, before that but still I am right in the middle of Tg and Melted Peek. Anyway, the blacked PTFE tube probably happened in a coupleby kr_ - General
QuoteDark Alchemist I know this as the tube in the real J-Head at 255c made the tube end black and that tube doesn't go as far in as this Chinese knockoff. It's surprising it got black. Maybe some are lower quality. Teflon's max operating temperature is 260°C according to a few datasheets and it had a memory effect at 350°Cby kr_ - General
QuoteDark Alchemist the first thing I did was unscrew the heatbreak where I found, to my surprise, a teflon tube going into the heater block. /facepalm From now on it is original for me again but the reason there is a teflon tube like that is because it is easier to manufacture AND the inner bore is so horrible that if it didn't have a teflon tube nothing would be able to get through. No, theby kr_ - General
I like the RFID idea! I thought about it too but I needed to come up with a database solution quickly when I made it. This RFID module seems to be perfect to expand my database solution since it's already using the I2C ports to communicate with the EEPROM. The matching RFID tags are dirt cheap ! I'll make my database solution public when I find some time to put it on GitHub.by kr_ - Developers
If your goal is to prevent filament problems, you should also do something against dust and moisture. You could enclose everything in a transparent box, include a micro dehumidifier and some dust wiping tool at the filament exit. I chose less overkill solutions on my side. My extruder is reliable enough to never encounter filament problems like jamming, shewing the filament etc... I put my filamby kr_ - Developers
You might want to design the power supply and electronic board's support and a spool holder before ordering the frame.by kr_ - General
QuoteFA-MAS apparently there was still quite a bit of carbonized filament in the threaded part of the throat past the heat break and in the nozzle I put Teflon tape on my heatbreak and nozzle's treads to prevent this. The nasty carbonized filament would mess up my prints otherwise...by kr_ - Printing
These rods look perfect for ruining your bearings I suggest looking for "STUB" there are plenty on eBay. Rub some oil on them to keep them rust free and to lubricate the bearings.by kr_ - General
I'm using an E3D-V6 clone. There are a few things to do to reduce friction that would be true as well for the original one : - Use little retractation, 1 to 3 mm should be fine. The soft hot plastic expends up to the same diameter than the heat break's inside. Pulling the filament back to the cold side of the heatbreak generates high friction. - Push a PTFE tube as far as possible through the heaby kr_ - General
Do you have some information about this "E6b" hotend ? (nothing shows up under that name on Google) What kind of extruder are you using ?by kr_ - General
I'm degreasing the surfaces with Loctite 7061 or Acetone before gluing and wear gloves to handle the parts. Degreasing can make a huge difference. I'm gluing the parts together with Loctite cyanoacrylate or no name 2 component epoxy. They're both very strong but the cyano glue requires no gap between the surfaces (which I usually obtain by printing directly on a glass surface). The drawback withby kr_ - Printing
Thanks for your explanations and feedbacks. QuoteLoboCNC 1. If the nozzle hits a bump (some errant bit of filament) the X or Y motor will be pushed out of position. With open-loop control if it gets pushed out by more than 1 full-step, then you'll never recover and forever have shifted print layers. With closed-loop control, though you'll end up with a minor defect in your print, but the motor wby kr_ - General
These steppers seem very promising to fix some problems I from time to time encounter when printing new parts for the first times (on a P3 Steel) : 1 - Missed steps when the nozzle hits a bump that sometimes appears when doing top infill (I don't want to lift the nozzle or slow down both the travel and the top infill speeds for the whole part so I currently edit the Gcode to reduce the feedrateby kr_ - General
Catia V5 for mechanical parts. I've tried many different ones but never quit using Catia. I love the ability to run finite elements calculations on my assemblies in the same software. It's also compatible with many common file types. It has a screw catalogue but if you need more traceparts.com offers compatibles files for about any standard part you need. Solidworks and Inventor are good too. I'by kr_ - General
You may need some sort of thermal insulation under the bed. You can use a cork sheet.by kr_ - RepRap Host
QuoteA2 Maybe there will be a challenge through the courts one day but, in the meantime, plug-in boards such as Raspberry Pi need to be compliant. Actually they don't! They don't fit in these product groups CE_marking (the low voltage group concerns equipments using between 50 V and 1.5 kV DF" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">DIRECTIVE 2006/95/EC)by kr_ - General
QuoteAmachete But It is neccesary to change in configuration.h the type of PSU, from ATX to X-BOX I did the same way than you. I also uncommented #define PS_DEFAULT_OFF so my printer's power supply doesn't switch on alone after a power shortage. (my 5V comes through the USB port from a Raspberry Pi, I removed the D1 diode on my Ramps) I'll add M80 at the beginning of my GCodes and M81 at the enby kr_ - RAMPS Electronics
A modified version of Slicer could make the job with it's "modifiers" function to position the print head with another direction than vertical - Import volumes overlaping your part in areas where you want to change the print head's direction. The intersecting surface must be flat. - Set how much space must be left around the head --> for colision dectection between the head and the bed or partby kr_ - Developers
I had issues with this. The PLA made a poping sound when comming out of the print head and artifcts were visible on the printed part. I put the PLA roll 4 hours in the owen heated at 50°C with the door a little open. It solved the problem. My rolls are now simply stored in a plastic bag with some silica gel. I haven't had any humidity issue since I'm doing it.by kr_ - General