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Re: RepRap used for farming - 2 years ago
Hi All, been quite a while. I don't know about using reprap firmware, but this is the robotics section so I guess anything robotic goes? I actually am a farmer, and some time back made a little venture into a project based on an old electric mobility scooter which fizzled out. I got it to the point of being a big glorified RC car, but it was useless off road and I didn't bother moving onto theby hobbymods - Developers
Re: "Form Tapping" V-slot Extrusions - 4 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I don't think he type of tap you use means much other than the mechanical effort required to use the tap. If you get about 1 cm of threads in the hole for the screw to grip it will be fine and you won't be able to strip the hole by turning the screw with a hand tool. If you're talking about tapping 2020 t-slot your joints will be tight and strong, but the t-slot will stby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: "Form Tapping" V-slot Extrusions - 4 years ago
QuoteMKSA The point here is to use an extrusion (thread forming) tap instead of a cutting tap ! They are of course not just to tap Al extruded profiles. This method gives a stronger thread besides Al is a bitch to machine ! You are more likely to break a cutting tap in Al than in regular steel. These taps are more expensive, the hole must be the correct size and of course it needs good lubricatiby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: "Form Tapping" V-slot Extrusions - 4 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Assembling the frame that way really only works if the end of the tapped piece is square. If not, you're going to need to use plates to hold the members square to each other. You will probably need to mill the ends to ensure squareness. I've been assembling frames that way from my first printer, but I have access to mills... Yes that is a point, and shimming things toby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: "Form Tapping" V-slot Extrusions - 4 years ago
QuoteVDX ... this is common for connecting extrusions since 30+ years (at least, when I've used it first) Yes, so I hear and mentioned in my first post. Can anyone say if it's worthwhile/better/necessary?by hobbymods - Mechanics
"Form Tapping" V-slot Extrusions - 4 years ago
Has anyone seen this before? I'm reading that this is the correct way to tap aluminium extrusions, and that the threads are much better/stronger in aluminium. Anyone heard that before? They're not cheap compared to normal, but if I'm knocking together a frame I'd like it to be straight and strong. I'm considering using an additional method to add some strength by using an M5 flat head screw iby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: Mosquito hot end...yes or no? - 4 years ago
Quoteobelisk79 Just go with Hermera, get quality, and save cash? Unless you've already ordered the bmg... Never even really looked at one of those...I'll do my research. To be honest I've got a BMG fitted to my E3 Pro, and I must say it oozes quality in appearance and performs flawlessly. I've not seen much said about the Hemera, but I have seen reports of problems with the Titan extruders bearby hobbymods - General
Re: Mosquito hot end...yes or no? - 4 years ago
Quoteobelisk79 In my opinion? The mosquito is nice, but it's also marketed hype and grossly priced. An E3D with a titanium heatbreak performs. I don't get stringing with PETG and my volcano and I'm using a Bowden setup. Tuning retracts was a pain but makes all the difference. That said, if you've got the money, and are willing to spend it you do you. I'm not a fan of groove mounting either butby hobbymods - General
Re: Mosquito hot end...yes or no? - 4 years ago
QuoteG3DBuilder Hands down, The Mosquito / Bondtech BMG combo is superior. I use this exclusively for printing PETG. This combo has solved all my stringing problems with PETG. I print tooling and parts with PETG and now really enjoy the quality that I get. The precision of the Bondtech BMG is just what was needed for accurate extrusion and the Mosquito hot end has simple one handed nozzle swap ouby hobbymods - General
Mosquito hot end...yes or no? - 4 years ago
Hi All, I'm about to build my Rat Rig V-core (v slot roller version), and I'm looking at what extruder/hot end combo to go with. I've searched here and elsewhere regarding the Mosquito hot ends vs the E3D V6, and there's not much info especially regarding long term use and reliability. I've actually got a new E3DV6 sitting here, but I have never been a fan of the groove mount. That doesn't meaby hobbymods - General
Re: CoreXY design: request for comment and collaboration - 4 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Those bearings are normally used in skate wheels, so they're good for pretty heavy loads and long life. Also would they be best mounted on a bit of 8mm shaft or shoulder/stripper bolt supported at both ends? Might help with alignment and prevent belt creep? I do like the look of the OP's box tube idler mount brackets, which might work well compared to a piece of printedby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: CoreXY design: request for comment and collaboration - 4 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I used some 3D printer pulleys with 3mm bore in my corexy sand table. They wore out in less than a year of occasional use. I replaced them with stacked F625 bearings with 5 mm bore. The belts are twisted so the smooth back sides ride on the pulleys, not the teeth. In UMMD I used F608 bearings to ensure there would be 9 teeth in contact- they are 22 mm dia, so circumfereby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: CoreXY design: request for comment and collaboration - 4 years ago
Regarding the smooth vs toothed pulleys. From what I have researched, it is not so much whether it is toothed or not as it is that the size of the pulley and number of teeth touching the smooth surface. I have seen mention that a minimum of 9 teeth must touch the surface, and another comment where they said that the smooth pulley must be twice the diameter of the driving/toothed pulley to avoidby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: V slot wheels on precision shafts - 4 years ago
Regardless of the spec, ATP5 is what it's going to be as that's the only one available in my country. As DD has pointed out, 0.381mm is the max runout and is unlikely to be the case on my 400x400 sheet. And as well, my stick on or magnetic print surface will most likely have some further errors. While I'm not keen on 3x Z stepper, I will assess the situation once I've built it as to whether I uby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: V slot wheels on precision shafts - 4 years ago
The kit arrived today. It'll be weeks before I can start it, as it's a busy time in my industry and I'm in the middle of a home reno project. But I did take a moment to pull out the build plate (400x400) and lay a straight edge on it. It's not a "banana" like some of the Chinese printers, but it's certainly not flat. I was seeing easily 0.2-0.4mm of sunlight under that straight edge, so it's noby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: V slot wheels on precision shafts - 4 years ago
Quotesdavi Quotehobbymods Was that "Calm Aluminium"? I got them to cut me a piece of 1/4" (which is 6.35mm) for my Zortrax conversion. Mine is "Vista Metals ATP5" as well. I don't know if that's better or worse than MIC6, but that's all I could find as well. It wasn't perfectly flat by the way, but still pretty good compared to any other plate I've used and heats nicely. Yeah that was the plaby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: V slot wheels on precision shafts - 4 years ago
Quotesdavi Quotehobbymods Yes, you are lucky to be so well equipped and supplied. The US must be awesome for niche hobbyists. There's no such thing as cheap cast plate in Australia, but I do have access to a water jet cutting guy who takes care of me. I don't have anything that would cut or machine aluminium to the tolerances required, which is why I've opted for a frame kit. I do have the geaby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: V slot wheels on precision shafts - 4 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I prefer my machines to be well built, too, with minimal software tricks to try to compensate for a poor mechanical build. I have access to materials (cheap t-slot, cheap cast plate) and machine tools (Milwaukee Makerspace) that a lot of people don't, so the software tricks are useful for people who have to rely on others to cut parts accurately, or are stuck with printedby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: V slot wheels on precision shafts - 4 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist It's hard to argue with the quality of those prints. And that's a very nice compliment coming from you, thank you. That's the original 8 bit Creality board as well, on stock firmware and no leveling or sensor other than the microswitch for setting the nozzle height. Funny thing is that I am totally crap on the keyboard! I've driven poor old David and his team nuts on thby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: V slot wheels on precision shafts - 4 years ago
Having thought about it for a while, I will just assemble it and see how it all works in standard trim. One of the main reasons I wanted to mod it from new is that I will spend up pretty big on the build plate, and didn't want to be chopping and changing it down the track and seeing a rough looking result. The plate that comes with it is 4mm anodized sheet aluminium, which might not be satisfactby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: V slot wheels on precision shafts - 4 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist As my rustic grandmother in the Tennessee hill country used to say, "you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear". Adding shoulder screws won't change the fact that the surface the wheels are riding on is not ground and polished to ensure flatness or straightness. It also won't ensure that the molded plastic wheels are round, smooth, and perfectly centered on the beaby hobbymods - Mechanics
V slot wheels on precision shafts - 4 years ago
Hi All, I've got a kit coming that runs genuine openbuilds v slot wheels, and I'd like to mount them a little better than with a screw through the bearing and a plate on one side. I've approached the kit manufacturer about an extra set of gantry plates and spacers. It seems they are custom, not off the shelf openbuilds. My thoughts are to have the standard plate/spacers on both sides of the whby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: Triple Z Axis - 4 years ago
QuoteJoergS5 I expect 4 mm for a 400x400 too thin, I would take 8 or more mm thickness. As material so-called MIC6 aluminium (= cast aluminium plate) is a good choice. Yes mate, I've used that on other printers with Keenovo heaters and Printbite surface. Looking at 10-12mm thick for this one, as the flatness tolerance gets better in the thicker sizes.by hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: Triple Z Axis - 4 years ago
QuoteJoergS5 In most cases it is recommended to use two linear guides and a three point bed. The best explanation about the bed I know is: and you can find valuable other construction ideas from him in his other blogs also which I recommend much. Thanks mate, Yes, I have looked at Marks work extensively over the years. When I previously tried to build my own (super expensive) design with lineby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: Triple Z Axis - 4 years ago
Oh well...guess there's no one out there for this one.by hobbymods - Mechanics
Triple Z Axis - 4 years ago
Hi All, I'll put this here rather than in the corexy section, as it could apply to any type of gantry. I've recently bought one of these, which hasn't arrived yet: I've ordered the optional triple Z axis, but without the steppers, as I'd prefer to run a common belt on a single motor. I've also gone with v-slot rollers, as I'm a bit of a believer in them if they're setup properly, just my perby hobbymods - Mechanics
Re: Need Printed Parts - 4 years ago
Mate I'm in NSW and might be able to help. If you haven't got it sorted already and are able to forward the files through to me, I'll most likely be able to do them at a reasonable price. I've got a very good Australian made PETG in red that I can print to a high standard if that's of interest. Just PM me if you like. Quoterobbycar I have not used my Ormerod for a few years. I dusted it off,by hobbymods - Ormerod
Re: New print surface material? - 4 years ago
Sorry mate, haven't been here for ages. Aussie slang, I said "ally" which is a tradesmans term for aluminium. To be honest, I switched off the bed levelling and really set about leveling the bed mechanically with a feeler gauge, and I've never looked back. The IR probe gives very consistent nozzle height on homing, I'm tipping the Printbite was a bit more opaque in some places or it was pickingby hobbymods - General
Re: Which Model as Basis for Rebuild - 4 years ago
I'm probably too late here, but I had the same thoughts and was talked out of it. If you'e throwing out all the Chinese running gear to replace it with better quality, you're still fitting that good running gear to a cheap Chinese foundation which quite possibly/likely has design flaws built in. For a few bucks more I've gone this way: Same as you I'm looking to fit a Duet Wifi/Paneldue/S3D Vby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: New print surface material? - 4 years ago
I've been using the original Printbite for about 3 years, straight onto cast ally tool plate. Results have always been good with PLA/PETG, but hit and miss with ABS. It seems this might be due to the fact that my IR probe doesn't seem to be reading it well. Z homing is consistent, but the bed leveling mesh looks awful and the bed is definitely that "lumpy". Has anyone used the new matt black Prby hobbymods - General