Stories from 2018 or abouts, were about the green plastic connnectors melting down, and possibly causing a fire. Not the PCB itself. Many youtubers did stories about how to make it safer. Seems one thing was if you soldered the wire ends from your power supply. When you inserted these into the clamping connectors, theres no 'squish', so the electrical contact is very small, and pumping 11 ampby orbitalair - Reprappers
I found when trying to use ABS printed slide bearings on 8mm stainless rod, that what you are trying to fight is a property called 'stick-tion'. That is to say that once the abs slider was in motion its friction is low, but the 'grip' it has starting from a stop is very large. after trying many, many dry and liquid lubricants I found simple Lemon-Pledge furniture polish worked best. Due to theby orbitalair - Mechanics
Chinese E3D clones have a narrow temp band between getting a good melt and then having bad heat creep. This will show itself after 10-20-30minutes with increased stringing and blobbing. The E3D clones that I have are also very particular with the retraction. the default of 4-6mm is far, far too much. I have mine dialed down to 1.5mm Both of these will vary with your filament brand and typeby orbitalair - General
FolgerTech FT5 or FT6 ?? 2 week lead time. Bonus is that its NOT 4 figures !by orbitalair - General
Closer to 1.2mm for a E3Dv6 type. Retract distance and nozzle temp are closely related in the e3dv6, and you cant run too high a temp either(creep). You can also change the min travel distance before a retract occurs, set it to 2x the distance you see there. 10mm?by orbitalair - Printing
ZYLTech also for great prices on ramps and mega boards. and 2020 extrusions. Also, FolgerTech for 6,8,10 and 12mm rods and bearings. but I did notice the other day 3x 1meter rods was going to be $22shipping, but adding more rods did not increase shipping, so plan accordingly. Bulk is cheaper. and I always soak and clean the rod bearings very well before re-oiling. usually a lot of grit in tby orbitalair - General
Quotebryanandaimee In addition, you might also try smoother drivers, vibration isolating feet, grease your bearings. To test the isolating feet idea just lift your printer (safely) while printing. The noise often greatly decreases. This is because the desk you have the printer on can act as a speaker when vibrated by the printer. For printed dampers make sure you use ABS or PETG. PLA will quicklyby orbitalair - General
Thanks for the reply !. All good points. RE; eagle, I have used FreePCB in the past, I suppose it still works, way back then (10yearsago) kicad was hard for me to understand and everything else was on windows anyways. at this point still not sure where to go, stick with freepcb, or eagle, kicad, or some online service. The JLCPCB companion site has a really deep pcb design tool, but its all oby orbitalair - Developers
Good luck and welcome to 3D printing, years of frustration await !! I mean, "learning". I just need to turn this learning into MONEY !by orbitalair - Reprappers
How is this coming? Could you spin a simpler version with just the basics? I have some teensy 3.1s I think. Can KiCAD export a eagle fileset? Also if the board is 100mmx100mm or less several asian companies will spin 10 boards for $2 or $5. I have used JLCPCB to get boards for $2. They were nice. I have a order in now for 10 Sinaptec boards to test with a arduino nano. As I say my printeby orbitalair - Developers
Name of machine and photo or diagram of problem would be helpful. Since most printers are made of dissimilar materials, and light to no stress, nuts usually stay put. If you are seeing a lot of vibration, set the machine on a dampening material such as foam pads, or rubber feet. CA or loktite or heck white glue, shoudl hold a nut in place against vibration.by orbitalair - Printing
Looks like a temp problem, something getting too hot, but it seemed to recover quickly and not repeat. That also looks like what happens if you are tethered and the laptop went to sleep (or the usb glitched). Try printing from a sd card if possible.by orbitalair - Printing
As long as the material is not 'plastic' like the ANET machines use, it should be good. 6mm x GT2 2mm sounds right. I had to replace with some belt made of rubber with embedded fibers to clear up a nasty surface wave that the plastic belt imprinted. After a while you will end up with a box of parts and materials.by orbitalair - Reprappers
I encourage you to keep moving ahead. Fix 1 thing at a time ! Dont get overwhelmed with multiple issues. I too am going to replace the anet crap board with a slightly less crappy ramps14 setup on my Anet A2. This will I think let me move to tmc2130s for quieter operation. anet boards are dang loud. But I learned ramps with my SmartRapMini2 builds.by orbitalair - General
Good discussion and something I did not think about when contemplating making a kit. Looks like the power supplies are the usual critical item certified. But we could use a few more power safeties, and probably a EMI shield for the RAMPs/meta combo. Tipping or fallover would be easy to detect. Overcurrent sensing might address the other issues.by orbitalair - General
Depends on the MOTOR. Unless you hear it buzzing its probably too high. If its too high touch the motor after 5minutes of use, is it warm? or super hot? if super hot its too high. I use 240-260mv for 0.4A motors. Lookup Tom Sanladerers youtube video on setting voltages, he has a ton of details. I also dont see a problem, that looks pretty dam good in the pic.by orbitalair - Reprappers
You can poke around here. also the main reprap page where various designs are shown. Most designs are on Thingiverse, I can think of one design that is similar to HyperCube on thingiverse that is not on reprap. Simply search thingiverse for '3d printer' Depending on your budget you could start simply but give up a few features in order to get started. On the really cheap end, something like aby orbitalair - General
I want to go. I would bring a couple of SmartRap Mini 2 to show off.by orbitalair - General
Thingiverse page updated with STLs and a PDF SmartRapMini 2 Manual. Thingiverse My plan is to have the Manual cover history, assembly, tuning, usage, mods.by orbitalair - Smart_Rap
Here you go, try the easy stuff first. Arduino com3 access denied troubleshooting Check the USb chip on your board, in the thread above someone points yet another Ch chip, a CH341. good luck.by orbitalair - Reprappers
I'd try the latest that you listed. You will need to determine steps/mm, and all those things. Set the basics then tune your steppers for current, then do a final cal on the steps. You can get more help with marlin 1.7-1.9. I have noticed one quirk with 1.9 you have to specifically tell it that you want to raise the z axis after homing. Its a new setting. Kinda wierd, I only saw this on aby orbitalair - Reprappers
A mechanical (clamped) assembly wouldn't work? This would let you change the glass or the lcd (I hear they burn out annoyingly frequently) when needed ? With the adhesive, can you use the water+soap trick? I dont know perhaps this only works with some adhesive systems. Ive used it for headlight protectors and such to be able to position the piece and reduce bubbles.by orbitalair - Developers
Hi All, I have taken the google page which loads really slowly and cant be printed, and made a PDF Manual. I will be expanding, revising and extending the Manual as I get time. My own SmartRapMini2 has been working well for the past year, used at least every other day making some part to fix something around the house, or something. The GT2 belted system is very reliable. Get the SmartRap Minby orbitalair - Developers
Uh, I see a refurbed unit for $5,899 !! Sell it for $3k and buy a kit.by orbitalair - Reprappers
Get a ramps set and a lcd. connections are just small pins on 0.2 spacing, they are called 'dupont' connectors, you may need connectors, pins, a crimp tool or small pliers. If you have a stash of old computer electronic stuff you can pull various wiring connectors and stuff off them. Dont know where you can get the old type extruders, you may have to adapt to a E3D clone. E3D will be lighterby orbitalair - General
I think that works as far as marlin is concerned, BUT Does multiplex software support "external" extruders, since its doing the slicing and figuring out how much of which filament to use. As far as I could tell multiplex was not able to be "chained" yet. I dont know myself, I only saw a video on one.by orbitalair - Developers
Maybe can be fixed in software. The firmware may have a preset priming value, but the slicer may feed some too. Check the slicer first. Check the "start gcode" section of your machines settings (at least in cura). Lookup G92 and G1 codes.by orbitalair - General
Gluestik on glass will work, its what I use. You have to get the plate level, and use the 1 piece of paper thickness to set the nozzle height. It will be unforgiving to nozzle height. Too far away and it will curl. Too close and plastic wont come out. You will be limited to PLA. I have managed to get a TPU to stick but it was only 1 time and a very small part test. ABS and PETG not goingby orbitalair - General
Hi Alain, It was a great learning process I am glad I did not quit midway thru. The guys here are 3D printing to achieve great accuracy or super fine repeatable production processes, so they have their opinions. I am a hobbyist, I bought a chinese kit first, and got into wondering about other designs. As I looked around and studied, I saw that Reprappers would make stuff, then change, and eby orbitalair - Developers
Very clever !! How do you do bed leveling? Adjustments? I like the wood frame, but what if you are a terrible woodworker like myself? Mine would likely not come out perfectly square. Plans or website available ? Thanks for sharing.by orbitalair - General