If you're american, I highly suggest trying P3d. They make rather nice nozzles.by warbunniex - General
Shoot okay thanks for the great resource!by warbunniex - General
I was wondering if the settings persisted after powering down the TMC5160 driver? I have a lcd resin printer I want to get soon and I would like to switch out its existing driver for the TMC5160 stepstick so it will be quieter & I can use a motor with more power & precision. The simplest way to do this in my head is to put the TMC5160 driver onto one of my extra control boards & usby warbunniex - General
Good to know they don't sell as advertised but I will say that you don't actually want steel core belts with the normal pulleys used for 3d printers. If I remember correctly, you really don't wanna use a pulley with less than 40 teeth for a steel core belt. Most 3d printers either use 20 or 16 tooth belts. So be mindful of that. The smaller diameter causes the steel to snap after a short time doby warbunniex - General
I never have time to test my work it seems but have you tried out this flex shaft? It's 2.2mm instead of 3 something. Should be a little less weight & a bit more flexible.by warbunniex - General
Hmm cool stuff. I'll have to get a piece some time & test it out.by warbunniex - General
If ya wanna try to make the worm gear yourself, I got a step file right here & a link to an imgur page explaining how to model your own. i think my worm gear here is only 1:13.by warbunniex - General
Ya PLEASE share. Don't care about patents. Lets acquire & share better means of production.by warbunniex - General
Quotedc42 Quotereifsnyderb We haven't seen a need for a silicone sock as the brass heater block used in the J-Head 12 HiFlow maintains a very stable temperature. One thing we've noticed with E3D hot ends is that some users have print cooling fans that blow air on the heater block as well as on the print, and some prints "reflect" the print cooling air on to the heater block. This can cause a sudby warbunniex - For Sale
So you said it can "thread it directly into a mounting hole" would it possibly work with the smart effector by duet? if so im sold. its got a lot of properties of the hotend i was designing. not perfect, ill still probably make my own. but id definitely like this design.by warbunniex - For Sale
those are metal ceramic heaters. you can get similar ones from i personally thinks its a better design BUT is very fragile so you have to be careful with wire management. the main reason i find it better is how quickly these things can change temperature. it can reach 240c in 30 seconds. its perfect for dual extrusion were you might wanna turn on and off a nozzle quickly.by warbunniex - Developers
you could always cast some resin on top of the material. i've seen people use this method with cncs to produce a flat mounting surface on steel tube frames.by warbunniex - Mechanics
I'll have too see if i can do something similar... i know ive seen it before and im glad it was addressed but honestly who care. i had forgotten about it. i just wish there was a way to use it to make larger parts.by warbunniex - General
i wonder if the pendulums they use in skyscrapers could be used in deltas. imma have to go get a nice size ball of lead... thanks for the ideas!!!by warbunniex - Developers
okay cool. this is new info for me. what methods do people use? would a closed loop stepper help? edit: well thats an awesome link... down the rabbit hole i going it seems. never gonna run out of things to test in calibration.by warbunniex - Mechanics
Digital dentist - So your saying the motor's are also responsible for ringing as the print turns a corner? I've done a lot to reduce electrical noise, have .9 motors, & use duets on printers. still get ringing when rounding corners. maybe i just have to keep increasing the belt tension. I have pretty good tensioners for each carriage & can already play a good tune on the cable/belt. Alsoby warbunniex - Mechanics
digital dentist - belt stretching has been a huge problem. specially for any prusa style machine with a 300mmx300mm bed. but also for machines like deltas with really long lengths of belt. it actually bothers me that chinese companies still use 6mm belt for the y axis of prusa style machines cause it would be the biggest improvement to performance if they went with a 15 or 20mm belt & wouldby warbunniex - Mechanics
Just a thought. So I decided to get some 100 pound fishing line for 10 dollars on amazon & used it as a hybrid system on my delta. It cut the belt length in slightly more than half and as allowed me to increase the acceleration & keep quality. And that got my thinking about hybrid systems. Could be not keep the belt & run a fishing line over top of it? I'm gonna test it on the y aby warbunniex - Mechanics
So which igus slide do you use? I bought a small bit of their 27mm preloaded low profile slides & like the look but im not sure how good one rail would be against twisting forces because the preload can only handle 1n of force.by warbunniex - Delta Machines
its a fusion 3 printer. could try asking them... though i think they may have patented it if i remember correctly. so could always go look up the patent. Edit: also holy cow. i just saw that motor pulley... thats gotta be some kinda joke for a 6k machine!by warbunniex - Mechanics
QuoteLeafy1 What boards support the servos and actual closed loop control? I could make a printer print a lot faster and more accurately if there was something out there that supported codes loop control. So there are several directions you can go with this. Here are the projects I have used or found: used it. PID tuning is a pain & doesnt get better resolution than +/- 5 encoder pulsesby warbunniex - CoreXY Machines
I'd say your stepper motor skilled steps on the first layer. either cause it hit something or just cause the settings arent right yet. it looks like it started with the layers far to close to the bed then skipped steps & landed at a better print high.by warbunniex - CoreXY Machines
I've never gotten a delta corner that was a good tolerance and I can tell you it does not matter one bit. Get some brass shims and work with it. As long as they hold the extrusions tight you will be file. Here are my builds and example prints. Both builds needed at least .5mm of shimming or more. I really liked the robodigg ones cause it seemed a lot stiffer than the plastic ones of my first kiby warbunniex - Delta Machines
The duet documentation is pretty good but they do need to put a little more hand holding in it. While it is perfectly possible to follow their instructions, you will often have to use google or youtube if you're not use to working with a router or are new to 3d printing. You seem to be very new at one or both and are getting upset. The duet forums are very helpful and responsive but you're abraby warbunniex - General
Whats wrong with yours?by warbunniex - General
Quotecwaa Send the Duet back! ...that would be absurdly wasteful. Send it to me instead ^ ^by warbunniex - General
I've bought a lot of parts from them. They sell good parts. I don't know if they go the extra mile and have the nicest quality. But most people don't have printers good enough for the nozzle to really be the issue... Especially if you're hoping to find something cheaper than half the cost of the official version.by warbunniex - Mechanics
QuoteVDX ... wax is, when molten, not viscous enough to be usefull for FDM printing - it's mostly used with "ink-jetting" types of 3D-printers. You can 3D-print a cast to make a wax counterpart. But IIRC, you can use parts printed from PLA for lost-cast moulding too, as it will burn/evaporate without residues too ... machinablewax.com has a wax filament. its very prone to warping so i would hby warbunniex - Casting and Moldmaking Working Group
So my understanding of this is that this are modeled flat and long so that a normal slicer can produce g-code correct?by warbunniex - General
http://thrinter.com/2wd-dual-drive-extruder-designs/ there are a few designs here. go nuts and let us know if they work!by warbunniex - Reprappers