Instructions for setting your config.g correctly for your Duet board are here: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Hi We've had problems with poorly, or not sufficiently, soldered USB sockets. The boards can pass testing, but then fail easily later. We're happy to replace the board under warranty if you have problems with this, as it's a manufacturing issue. Email us on support@reprappro.com with your invoiceby droftarts - Huxley
Hi KennethY89 It sounds like you've got a short circuit on your hot end heater, and no connection on your heated bed. Check your wiring. There's a troubleshooting guide to bed temperature problems here: Looking at your configuration (M503), it looks like the thermistors are set up correctly (the M304 responses) Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Huxley
Not quite sure if it's relevant; there is a bug in v1.04 of the official RepRapFirmware, where you can switch on the fan with M106 S255, but any movement of the axes will turn it off again! This has been fixed in the soon-to-be-released next version of the firmware. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Good point! I think it was initially done to make sure that the page was fully loaded before going any further. But with the firmware, network, web server and speed improvements, it probably isn't necessary. I'm sure zpl will work it out! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Setting up the SD card is in the Commissioning instructions: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
If you have plastic stuck to the hot end, heat the hot end to around 90 to 100C. I tend to use some long nose pliers, or tweezers, to grab any plastic. At this temperature, the plastic sticks to itself but is soft enough to detach from the hot end, so it usually comes off in one piece, very satisfyingly! Like picking a scab... Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Another point a customer has just highlighted... Don't set the nozzle too low in the cooling block. The heat break should be just below the cooling block, as shown in the 9th step here: If it pokes out too far, ie 1mm or more, a reservoir of heat can build up in the part below the cooling block, but above the heat break. This will creep up and melt filament higher up the nozzle, over time. Iaby droftarts - Ormerod
Hi all Sorry if you're experiencing problems. Can you post a picture of your hot end? Then I can check if it has been constructed correctly. There are two really important elements to good heat control in the hot end. First, that the heater block is firmly held in place by the tapered brass nut (to made sure there is good thermal transfer between heater block and nozzle), and secondly that theby droftarts - Ormerod
Okay, we've worked out where Arduino IDE 1.6.2 installs. Bossac IS installed, but you have to jump through a few hoops first, and then find it... 1. Install Arduino IDE 1.6.2 or later 2. Open Arduino IDE, install support for the Arduino SAM-based boards by going to menu option Tools > Board > Boards Manager, then follow the on-screen instructions 3. This should install bossac in C:\Users\Aby droftarts - Ormerod
We just found out about bossac missing from Arduino IDE 1.6.2 onward. See: They've changed how the boards and cores work. You can install support for the Arduino SAM-based boards ( menu Tools > Board > Boards Manager ), but doing this still doesn't seem to install bossac. While we try and find a work around, download any version of Arduino IDE prior to 1.6.2, from For older firmware filby droftarts - Ormerod
Hi jmknox Make sure you update your sd card files, to the ones that come with v1.04, particularly the web interface related files. The "Network connection error, code -10" usually just means it hasn't got the data it expected. It could be that you are not connected to the internet, so it can't access the files it needs from the internet, or there has been some other error. When you upgrade fromby droftarts - Huxley
If you continue to have no luck reading SD cards, it sounds like the SD socket may have failed. If your colleague was able to print, I would guess that it did work at some point. If you can't get it working, and think you need a warranty replacement, you need to contact me on the support email address - support@reprapprby droftarts - Ormerod
You say you updated to v1.04. Was it working before upgrading? Or has it never worked, as far as you are aware? You say this is an Ormerod 1; how old is it, when was it purchased? From RepRapPro, RS Components, or someone else? Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Troubleshooting guide here: Error code: 12 – The volume has no work area This generally means it isn't reading the SD card. Try reformatting it, and copy fresh files onto it. Make sure that when you open the SD card, that the three folders 'gcodes', 'sys' and 'www' are the first thing you see, ie they are in the root directory; they shouldn't be in another folder. Let me know, if after going tby droftarts - Ormerod
The two 'faults' with the RRP 1.04 firmware are: 1. The first hot end is assigned T0, rather than T1. Not an issue for new users. Old upgrading users need to be aware of this, of course, but can still define the hot end as T1. Or, if in a single colour machine, define both T0 and T1 to use the same heater and extruder. Using T0 as the first tool has become the industry standard, and is what Repeby droftarts - Ormerod
The extra pins on the 5V regulator board are for Huxley and Mendel printers, that use 2 motors for the Z axis. Otherwise, there's no way to plug them back in, or we have to create a difficult wiring loom. See: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Quotedc42 However you choose to do it, it's your (RepRapPro's) responsibility to ensure that the boards you ship are fit for purpose. Planning how boards will be tested is an important part of electronic design. If you are relying on your supplier to test the boards, then this is presumably covered in the contract with your supplier. Have you provided your supplier with a test schedule, and a tesby droftarts - Ormerod
I've updated the Ormerod 2 instructions with a 'quick' version of setting the Z-probe: Ben: "Copy the G31 Z P command you have derived into the config.g file on the SD card." Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Ignore all this information about firmware. It's either a wiring problem, or a fault with the Duet. To test: 1. Make sure, when you plug and unplug wiring loom into the Duet, THE POWER IS OFF! Or you'll damage the stepper driver chip on the Duet. 2. Disconnect all motor wiring looms from the Duet. Compare all the motor wires, and check that wiring colour order is the same on each of them. On theby droftarts - Ormerod
shadow651: I'll order a warranty replacement for you. I'll email you regarding this. I forgot to add the instructions to swap the crimps over to my email, though you've obviously been able to correct this: "If you look at the housing, as in this picture (top right), you can see the crimps. Each one is held in by a small plastic tab that is part of the housing. Using a thin, sharp point (like theby droftarts - Ormerod
There's also this troubleshooting guide, which I added earlier this week: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Basically, aluminium rusts. But aluminium 'rust' is aluminium oxide, which is harder than aluminium, and seals and protects the underlying aluminium. Anodizing aluminium is, effectively, speeding up this process. See Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
So long as the bearing is free to rotate, I don't think you'll see any particular issue. The z-runner-bearing should not be done up too tight, anyway, and the x-carriage back bearing rests with just the weight of the hot end on it. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
We used to wrap the wire-wound resistors, that were used before cartridge heater, in aluminium kitchen foil if they were too small to fit the hole. But I think it would be too tight for even one layer of foil! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Send M561 then M556 S100 X0 Y0 Z0. This resets any bed plane and orthogonal axis compensation. Or remove/comment out the M556 line in config.g and reset/cycle power. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Quotedc42No, I didn't miss it. I thought it would be too confusing for me to recommend a tool numbering setup that was at odds with the standard RepRapPro one. For a start, it would mean that when switching firmware, users would have to re-slice their STL files or edit the gcode files, to change T1 in the start gcode to T0. Fair enough. Now any number works, it doesn't really matter. You could eby droftarts - Ormerod
You can still use T1 as the first tool. Just change the M563 ( ) line in config.g. I'm just explaining what we're doing as standard. The history: it was just 'T' to start with, before we had any multi nozzle support in the firmware, then 'T0' when we started to actually define it. When we properly added the multi-nozzle code (0.65e), we decided to make it T1, as people always got confused withby droftarts - Ormerod
Sorry dc42, probably should have run this by you a few days ago! I thought you'd changed back to T0 ages ago, though... Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Hi Dodger I'd expect it is a mechanical issue, unless you have some strange settings for bed and orthogonal axis compensation. Try running a print with them turned off . If you get the same again, most likely the X motor pulley is loose. For other causes, see this section of the troubleshooting, and the two sections following it: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod