Well, if they only last you 6 prints, how about this one made out of a paperclip:by DaveX - General
http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode#M42_in_Marlin.2FSprinter does general purpose i/o. Since it looks like pin 9 does PWM, the marlin code should do an analogWrite() to turn pin 9 on full power when given an 'M42 P9 S255' while M42 P9 S0 should turn pin 9 off. If you use intermediate values, like M42 P8 S127, it would do a 127/255=50% duty cycle, but I'm not sure what frequency it would run at, andby DaveX - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Needs more cooling. The slower speeds are allowing more time for the prior layers to cool. Slic3r's cooling might help:by DaveX - Reprappers
Maybe an M42 P8 S1, M42 P8 S255, and M42 P8 S0 , after reconfiguring https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/pins.h#L648 to not reserve pin 8 for your heater.by DaveX - Firmware - mainstream and related support
From https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/search?q=manage_heater it is temperature.cppby DaveX - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Looks like the (needless) error would be small. If it is rotated by 1% (2mm in 200mm) around both Y and X, then the rotation matrix is off orthogonal by about 0.01%. That would be about 100x as much as 0.0002mm across the entire bed.by DaveX - General
QuoteOhmarinus Quotegmh39 I think what Gary is saying is that if your build surface is not planar you will not get flat prints even with a probe. Exactly. Heh, I thought it was all servo adjusting. Here's the code: Depending on AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID It either calculates a transformation matrix based on a plane derived from three probed points ( ) or on the least-squares best fit plane thby DaveX - General
You can turn off your thermistor around You can set the minimum fault temperature to below whatever Marlin is reporting the non-existent thermistor to be and avoid that error with You could put in a plain 100K resistor as a fake 100K thermistor and it should always measure about 25C.by DaveX - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Eyeballing your part as 10mm wide, it seems to be about 0.25mm wavelength corrugation. 16T GT2 at 200 steps/rev gives you 16tooth/rev*2mm/step/(200step/rev)=0.16mm/step resolution, and /(16microsteps/step) would be 0.01mm/microstep. Both seem significantly smaller than the Is it corrugated just on the curved areas? If the corrugation is in tune with the ends of the g-code line segments, itby DaveX - Printing
My printer is different than yours, but I put a half-twist in the belt before the idler and mesh the belt ends together tooth-to-tooth inside of my x-carriage, holding them together on the outside with zip ties. Something like , but with my carriage between the wired bits.by DaveX - Reprappers
I don't have endstops configured. I use Pronterface to jog the head to the center of where I want to print and a paper-width above the bed and send a G92 x0 y0 z0.1, and have my slicer set up to center on 0,0. Thanks Andrew--I hadn't thought to park at a standard Z height. I do bed leveling and checking with the same paper feeler gauge, using the Pronterface jogging control and some M114s. Aby DaveX - General
etc. says it can handle it, given enough power. The 500w of an ATX or other power supply is an upper limit of what it can provide, it does not mean that it will try to force the full 500w into board. If you hook up a beefier power supply, only 120W or 10 amps of current at 12V will go through the board's MOSFET and through the heatbed, with the rest of your electronics drawing their own waby DaveX - Reprappers
Take a look at the still from the first youtube on RepRap wallace -- It has a sketch like this in the plate's front left corner: Y ^ | | | | +------------> X The +y on the parts stuck to the plates is towards the back/into your picture, while the plate itself moves out towards the front/out of the picture..by DaveX - Reprappers
You can bend steel things without denting by using a softer material -- search for 'non-marring hammer' for examples. You might measure the extent of the runout (http://www.precisebits.com/tutorials/spindle_runout.htm, and compare it to your good motors) and then consider how much that effect could throw off your machine. Probably a wave in the positioning with a magnitude of the size of the ruby DaveX - Reprappers
If the thermistors have reasonable resistance, and the wiring is fine, then it could be something in the ADC converter on the chip. Are you certain the board is supplying the +V to the pullup resistor for the thermistor? I'd measure the voltage across the thermistor and confirm that one end is at 0V and the other is being pulled up towards +V. If that is true, then your wires are probably goodby DaveX - General
'Normal' electronics supplies a constant +12V (or +24V) on one of the heatbed terminals, and either lets the other terminal (-) float when no heat is called for or shorts the other terminal to ground to complete the circuit. To prove it to myself, I would put a 100 or 1000 ohm resistor across the electronics' heatbed ports and see if both sides read 12V when off and +12, 0 when on. From yourby DaveX - Reprappers
Power stopped flowing through your heated bed. Either the + side isn't getting enough power or the - side isn't being shunted to ground when desired.by DaveX - Printing
From the Rev1 picture at it looks like are -/+ signs on the silkscreen side. It looks like the board switches the negative side, which is the more common configuration with MOSFETS so you should be reverse the reds and blacks, (positives and negatives) in your diagram. They also show the +/red side of the control connecting on the input side towards the power supply, so that red/black should bby DaveX - Reprappers
The schematic at says there should be 5V going into the top of the 4.7K pull-up resistors for each thermistor input. If there is no thermistor attached, the open circuit voltage should be 5V. If the thermistor is in the circuit to ground, then the voltages at the inputs depend on the temperature-sensitive resistances of the thermistors.by DaveX - General
Machinists call it "runout", and it was probably caused by dropping the stepper and bending the shaft. You can unbend shafts somewhat by finding the high side and bending it back with a press or a hammer, but you can't reliably eliminate all the runout that way. The common way that machinists fix runout is by turning the shaft down to a smaller diameter. You'd then have the problem of an undby DaveX - Reprappers
From running Marlin/createTemperatureLookupMarlin.py with a couple values from your table you can get some diagnostic values: $ ./createTemperatureLookupMarlin.py --t1=25:100000 --t2=185:856.4 --t3=270:200.1 -10 // Thermistor lookup table for Marlin // ./createTemperatureLookupMarlin.py --rp=4700 --t1=25.0:100000.0 --t2=185.0:856.4 --t3=270.0:200.1 --num-temps=36 // Steinhart-Hart Coefficients:by DaveX - Printing
Slicer lets you rotate STLs around the Z axis with its Plater/45ccw|45cw|rotate buttons. Netfabb lets you rotate around X,Y or Z with its rotate tool. To use these tools to rotate a part from horizontal to vertical, you could open it in Netfab, rotate 90 degrees around X or Y, export it as STL, then open the new file in slicer.by DaveX - Reprappers
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M42_in_Marlin.2FSprinterby DaveX - General
You could try and adapt one of the config files to your ultimaker. Teacup has a relatively simple structure compared to Marlin. The main loop in ; the temperature and heater stuff initiated periodically with ; interrupt-driven ADC temperature conversions in and interrupt-driven step timing in scheduled by Teacup doesn't do LCD menus or printing from SD cards, but it might be a good fitby DaveX - Developers
1.5 ohms is significantly higher than normal. At 11.7V, power dissipated is P=v^2/R, so 11.7^2/1.5=91 watts, versus a standard 12V^2/1.1=131 watts, so you are about 30% lower than most. If you can, try upping the voltage with your lab supply to 14V to get 14^2/1.5=130W and see how things go. Per RAMPS could take 14V is you aren't using the diode to power your arduino. Maybe a nice 7805 wby DaveX - Reprappers
There's some at or Too big and it catches on stuff, too small and you can't constrain wider traces. Edited to add: I saw that folks thought wider nozzles could potentially help smooth top surfaces with good calibration, but they tended to degrade bridging.by DaveX - General
The bottom of the first layer will/should be at 0.00mm directly on the bed, while the top of the first layer should be whatever you chose. If your slicer is printing you a skirt, check the thickness of the skirt to see if it is the same thickness as your slicer asked for. If it isn't the same, then the Z=0 wasn't set quite right. You can adjust it by moving the endstop, by telling your fiby DaveX - Printing
Quotewolffman122 Resistance of the board is about 100k at room temperature. Trying to heat it to 110 and keep it there during the print. Would it be ok to run 14v into the ramps just for the heat bed connections, or would that fry the board? Resistance of a 100K thermistor is about 100k ohms at room temperature. Resistance of a 12V PCB heatbed is about 1.1 ohm so it can dissipate about 130 waby DaveX - General
1) 2) Use a digital multimeter or a LED with a resistor. good luck.by DaveX - Reprappers
I think the TinyG could handle the motion part just fine, but the you might off-load the temperature stuff to the beaglebone. You might be able to write a reasonably simple program that controls the temperatures and translates 'E' words to 'A' words on the fly, and drive the TinyG with pretty standard G-code. Maybe you could even make TinyG parse E words into A-axis words with one line aroundby DaveX - General