The extruder fan can do a couple things: cool/disrupt the convection around the hotend so that the filament feeding down towards the hotend doesn't soften too far up inside the extruder and cause a jam ( ), and to also help cool the already extruded filament for applying more plastic ( .) Marlin does have an auto-fan feature in its advanced configuration options (See ) but it is off by defaby DaveX - Reprappers
It depends on when you/your slicer sends a G code to turn the fan on. Try sending a "M106 S255" to turn the fan to full power. The hotend should not be heat damaged without a fan unless the thermistor setup isn't working right. Reversing the extruder motor has nothing to do with the fan. Swap the connector.by DaveX - Reprappers
I don't have a Duet, but I think that is normal. The LED indicating that the signal line is shorted to ground when the switch is untriggered/carriage is away from the endstop, and pulled up (light off) when the switch is triggered. See and portion about the lights on the board for the description of the normal operation of the Y-endstop light. I like that the light is on in the untriggered/by DaveX - Reprappers
QuoteTraumflug Marlin copied this from Teacup firmware. You might better understand it when reading the original. Preprocessor based algorithms are substantially faster and smaller at runtime (where it matters). In Teacup the sources are with supporting files like or I think the #undef PA0 are to make sure a that pin def doesn't get expanded into something else and is taken literally duringby DaveX - General
On Richrap says he found 3.2mm to 2.6mm filament usable, but he rejects out-of-round filament and filament with more than +/-0.1mm variability.by DaveX - Printing
The diameter itself doesn't matter so much as long as it fits in your extruder, but uniformity is important. At 3mm, if the diameter changes by 0.1mm, then the cross sectional area, and the amount of plastic extruded, changes by 7%, Seeby DaveX - Printing
Looks like it translates the thermocouple to a OneWire protocol, so you'd need to adapt Marlin to understand OneWire See andby DaveX - General
If the symptom you are describing is close to what is pictured, perhaps one of the other causes (mechanical?) might provide you with ideas towards a solution.by DaveX - Reprappers
Per , moving from 18 to 16 gives you about double the copper, would halve the 21 mOhm/meter resistance, and about halve the ~ 2W ( 10A^2*0.02ohm) of power lost in the wires. To 12 gauge, you could save 90% of the lost through a meter of 18AWG, so it should get you about a 2% improvement in power delivered to the bed. I'd look at the existing solder joints, maybe scraping back some of the insby DaveX - General
Pointing to the source at and thereabouts.... The fastio stuff uses C preprocessing macros to translate an arbitrary DIOn operation into a fast bit operation on the associated port/register, which is quicker than a call to the digitalWrite() function (See ). Essentially, if you want to set a particular pin to high, you need to read the whole port's register and set the appropriate bit, andby DaveX - General
Check the thermistor. If it is shorted out, then it might read at the top end of the thermistor table.by DaveX - Printing
The POWER_SUPPLY X-box/ATX setting changes the sense of way the electronics drives the PS_ON_PIN, either active-high or active-low. If you aren't using a PS_ON_PIN to control your laptop power supply, the setting won't matter.by DaveX - Reprappers
Using a Beta R25/50 value to extrapolate to the stated 260C range seems like range would be asking for big errors. The beta(R25/50) of 3990 would give a resistance of 100000/exp(3990^(1/(273.15+25)+1/(273.15+50))))=34822 ohms, which , with a 4700 ohm pullup would generate an ADC reading of 1024*(34822/(34822+4700)=902 counts, so Marlin table 1 would match for the 25-50C range pretty well. I'd sby DaveX - Reprappers
Quotekevbme QuoteDaveX Check the open circuit resistance of the bed. If it is greater than about 1 ohm or so, then the bed shouldn't be pulling more than 12A and maybe the power supply isn't up to spec. If it's less than 1 ohm, then it could be trying to pull more than 12V/(bed resistance) out of the power supply and overloading it to shutdown. Im getting 1.3 12V/1.3ohm=9.2Amps, so if theby DaveX - Reprappers
Check the open circuit resistance of the bed. If it is greater than about 1 ohm or so, then the bed shouldn't be pulling more than 12A and maybe the power supply isn't up to spec. If it's less than 1 ohm, then it could be trying to pull more than 12V/(bed resistance) out of the power supply and overloading it to shutdown.by DaveX - Reprappers
Nozzle geometry is relatively fixed, and the easy-to measure and calibrate head speed is easy to control and adjust. If you are just looking for the marginal effects of changes around an uncalibrated operating point, maybe a simple-minded Taylor-series expansion around the operating point would be enough to predict the effects of 1mm/s changes. For bigger questions, like "given that this settinby DaveX - General
A lot of the process depends on the fluid properties of the heated plastic of relatively uncontrolled composition, which, taken with the measurement of temperature in the melting chamber of a hotend, and its calibration, leads to a pretty uncontrolled process. The users need experimentation to tune them for their machine's calibration, their source plastic, and the application.by DaveX - General
RichRap's jig at looks good.by DaveX - General
QuoteTraumflug QuotevegaslokiGiven that the Wiki contains outdated info, contradictory info and some just plain wrong info focusing on this edit is disproportionate to me. I think it could serve to do more to discourage participation rather than encourage participation. The students and young people are not only the future of this community but the community of the world as a whole. We, particulby DaveX - General
Quotecharleslow ... Please, please tell me where I can find earlier commit of the marlin firmware. I have looked everywhere (https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin) and every place imaginable and I cannot find an earlier firmware version anywhere. Where can I find it? Thanks, Charles. Quoteddurkee0 I have a new Full Graphics Display and tried Marlin_v1 on 2 different Arduino 2560. No display.by DaveX - General
They should be on the board in opposite directions to detect power with either polarity, so if you aren't disconnecting them from the board, measuring conductivity either way should be expected. I'd check that your resistor works and that you have a 1.7V+ voltage drop across the leds. If so, then I'd try touching a bigger led in parallel to the existing leds.by DaveX - Reprappers
Language is clearly a natural high-level division for documentation. Translating pages into user's languages adds value. I don't see anywhere near the same added value in forking identical data. It seems like it duplicates the requirement for maintenance, while the benefit is questionable (to me.) On the glossary, I do agree that the page which redirects to is the better link than the linkby DaveX - General
I'd look around in pins.h, checking and for whether your chosen section defines those pins. Much of the of the ULTRA_LCD code bits seem to expect NEWPANEL to be defined as well. The error might be trying to fit whatever WELCOME_MSG, MACHINE_NAME or CUSTOM_MENDEL_NAME add up to into the width of your display.by DaveX - Firmware - mainstream and related support
QuoteEtherDais Dear Markus, First: Thank you for your support and effort. Our appreciation for it cannot be stressed enough. Others have already pointed out the motivation for the post which seems to have sparked this: The main purchasing page is meant to be general, but what was desired (in the mind of the student) was a page which had just the relevant (and updated) information for purchby DaveX - General
One thing I'd check is the setting of the current on the stepper drivers. Something like , but appropriate for your particular drivers. If the currents on some stepper drivers are too high, the drivers overheat and shutdown, sometimes cycling and stuttering.by DaveX - Reprappers
What the arduino itself thinks is com3 is very different than what the host computer thinks is com3. You likely want your computer's com3 to talk to the arduino's com1 See and the Input Output section where "Serial 3" is on pins 15 and 14, which are what RAMPS uses for the Y endstops.by DaveX - Firmware - mainstream and related support
A thermistor pullup is typically included in the board and you don't need to install it externally. It isn't the pro, but the Azteeg X3 (non pro) at has 4.7Ks in its schematic. You can check the thermistor and pullup with a DMM across the thermistor leads: without a pullup, there would be no voltage. With a pullup, the voltage across the leads should be between 0 and 5 V, depending on the rby DaveX - Reprappers
Check serial ports and baud rates. If you have been able to flash/try different versions of Marlin, then it sounds like you can get communication between the Arduino and the computer.by DaveX - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotekevbme QuoteDaveX If M119 is insensitive to whether or not the endstops are triggered, then the firmware isn't getting the message somehow. If you check out the associated pins with a multimeter, you could see if an electrical signal is getting to the pins. Electrically they should toggle between +5V and 0 when the switch toggles. Doublecheck what you are using with Also, you might cheby DaveX - Reprappers