Show all posts by user
Everybody here is a developer. Share what you are doing !
Re: Why do some groups try to shell out from the RepRap community? - 10 years ago
The bulk of appears to be the US subset of Forking two copies of the same chunk of info seems like an invitation for making both child sets less useful. Which list of US suppliers of filament will be better maintained? Is anyone going to even attempt to keep the data in sync? The original page already lets people sort and find a US subset, so I'd think that pointing to the original andby DaveX - General
Re: End stops won't work. X moves one direction - 10 years ago
If M119 is insensitive to whether or not the endstops are triggered, then the firmware isn't getting the message somehow. If you check out the associated pins with a multimeter, you could see if an electrical signal is getting to the pins. Electrically they should toggle between +5V and 0 when the switch toggles. Doublecheck what you are using with Also, you might check if your firmware isby DaveX - Reprappers
Re: Why do some groups try to shell out from the RepRap community? - 10 years ago
I tagged the buyer's guide page with {{Merge|RepRap Buyers' Guide}} Could : Pages_to_be_merged (munged w/ extra spaces) be linked on : SpecialPages (munged w/extra spaces) under Maintenance Reports or something? And is there a way to make it so this forum doesn't render colon-P as a , colon-S as or parse links including colons into image markup? Links like ages_to_be_merged" target="_blaby DaveX - General
Re: End stops won't work. X moves one direction - 10 years ago
Does M119 report reasonable changes to your endstops? Is the 'DIR' pin of the X stepstick getting the proper signals? If not, check the output from the atmega perby DaveX - Reprappers
Re: Why do some groups try to shell out from the RepRap community? - 10 years ago
Take a look at and Sometimes "editing a wiki page" is part of coursework and used for class credit. If so, seems like clear plagiarism ofby DaveX - General
Re: MK3 heatbed cannot reach target temp - 10 years ago
Quotewangfei Hi DaveX, I connect according to this (Even my one is a Mk3 the schematic on it is the same as this). I am using a hacked PC powersupply of 420 Watt. Inside the powersupply was a total of 6 cables for 12 volt from the pcb. I have connected 3 together with a much thicker cable, which again is connected to terminal. Other 3 connected in same way to other terminal. Do you mean that tby DaveX - Printing
Re: Teacup issues and questions... - 10 years ago
QuoteHaniC I've got an application where I wan't to use an atmega328 to drive a printer so I've decided to give teacup FW a test. I tested it on my current printer that uses sanguinololu electronics with an atmega1284p running at 16Mhz and have come across a few issues. Wondering if anyone can offer some pointers, advice or explanations. Issue 1 PID doesn't seem very stable. I have a J-Head MKIby DaveX - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: [teacup] GCODE_COMMAND.S: insufficient range - 10 years ago
Quotemiso Thanks, I had just used values from here. So from that github discussion it seems that those values are supposed to be scaled down by factors 4, 16, 8 to work with teacup. I know that I'm supposed to use my own values, but those, after scaled down, work much better than defaults for me. Yes, those values look like marlin-formatted values, which are in units of {PWM/C. PWM/Cs, PWM/(C/s)by DaveX - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: [teacup] GCODE_COMMAND.S: insufficient range - 10 years ago
An M132 S100 sets the PID D value to 100 PWM counts per quarter degree per 2 seconds dT/dt, or IOW, to +/- full scale (+/-255) for a 0.31C/second temperature change rate. Are you sure that's a desirable behavior? I've been working with the PID units in Teacup a bit, (https://github.com/Traumflug/Teacup_Firmware/issues/74) and running into the int16_t/1024 limits, but I'm not sure of the rightby DaveX - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: MK3 heatbed cannot reach target temp - 10 years ago
Sounds like you are putting power (at 12V?) onto half of a dual power heatbed, (and you get a disconnect by putting insufficient power into both halves) Seeby DaveX - Printing
Re: Change default homing order in Marlin? - 10 years ago
If you don't want to do it in your G-code like: G28 Y0 G28 X0 Z0 You can mess with the internals around so a plain 'G28' will do it in the order you prefer.by DaveX - Reprappers
Re: hotend issues - 10 years ago
The all-metal fan bracket in looks .... interesting. I wonder what happens at high temps?by DaveX - Printing
Re: Low Heated Bed Resistance - Solution - 10 years ago
If you really want to do it with this board, you could cut one of the four traces into thirds (8/3), and add a third of that trace to each of the full traces(8+8/3), then with three parallel circuits you should get 1/(1/R+1/R+1/R) = 1/(3/(8+8/3))=3.5556 ohms, so V/R=I gives 24/3.5556=6.75A and V^2/R=P gives 24*24/3.5556=162W. Each branch would have the same resistance, amps, and heating.by DaveX - General
Re: Heated bed not reaching temp - 10 years ago
Just jumper the grounds from pin 2 to pin 3 and don't desolder.by DaveX - General
Re: Heated bed not reaching temp - 10 years ago
Is your whole bed getting hot? 2.1ohms is about twice what the normal heatbed would measure -- see . Maybe one of the copper traces is broken?by DaveX - General
Re: cartridge heater - 10 years ago
I was mistaken -- I was thinking 2 amps. I print with 12V through a 6.7 ohm resistor for about 21 watts max, controlled to about 9.5W for 180C PLA at 30mm/s.by DaveX - Reprappers
Re: cartridge heater - 10 years ago
12V 40W wouldn't be better, it would be overkill. 2W is enough power for many folks. 40W can make things glow red--see the dangerous looking photo of 30W in a cartridge heater in RichRap's article on hotends (Page 44 of )by DaveX - Reprappers
Re: Ramps 1.4 + n4004 diode (???) - 10 years ago
You are welcome. If you wanted the same answer even earlier, googling 'reprap ramps diode' would have beat me by almost three hours.by DaveX - General
Re: can Marlin be cofigured for 2 extruders driven by 1 motor - 10 years ago
Maybe you could do it with just an M42 in the G code. See If you need to switch directions, it would be a bit more complicated--maybe you could hook a NAND gate to the pin and the extruder direction, and still get away with no firmware mods.by DaveX - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Print head too far away from bed - 10 years ago
Pause while you are printing and ask the printer exactly where it thinks it is with 'M114', and see if it makes sense. You should be able to adjust things by moving the z stop, adjusting the firmware config, offsetting things in slic3r, or offsetting in Pronterface during the run with a 'g92 z1.5', depending on how permanent you want the changes to be.by DaveX - Printing
Re: Stepper Motor Ramps Control - 10 years ago
If the extruder works for the first 15% and then starts skipping, it is likely to be something in the hot end jamming up. Try RichRap's 2finger test from and see how it compares with when the stepper skips. Messing with the trimpots on the stepper driver might be a distraction--they put put the same current (and the same torque) into the steppers whether they are running, still, or skippingby DaveX - General
Re: Thick vertical shells aren't flat - 10 years ago
Quotebcc5347563 QuoteDaveXEdit -- you are trying to get layers next to each other, rather than on top, as I was first thinking. Still, you want a 1.5x+ wider-than-nozzle extrusion width for good control. Your slicer needs to account for the wider extrusion width so it can place the squished filament further away. I use Slic3r, and don't see a way to increase the width without feeding more fby DaveX - Printing
Re: Thick vertical shells aren't flat - 10 years ago
I think you need the extrusion width to be 1.5 times the nozzle diameter or so, otherwise, the nozzle can't really constrain the location of the extruded filament from being influenced by what has been placed before. See or Edit -- you are trying to get layers next to each other, rather than on top, as I was first thinking. Still, you want a 1.5x+ wider-than-nozzle extrusion width for good cby DaveX - Printing
Re: STEPPERS MOVING FULL STEP INSTEAD OF 1/16 STEP - 10 years ago
Are the MS1 & MS2 pads on the Melzi at 0V or at +VDD?by DaveX - General
Re: Wiring question - 10 years ago
The wires should be flexible and capable of handling the amperage (2A for a 20W resistor hotend, more for a cartridge, 10A for a 120W heatbed). Nophead uses multiple conductors of ribbon cable for the Mendel90 -- See for good examples of sizing ribbon cable (12x26AWG wires each way) and plain stranded wire (18AWG) for the heatbed. The Mendel90 also uses the DB9 to enable quck change of the eby DaveX - Reprappers
Re: Simple questions - 10 years ago
Z offset in which software? If everything is calibrated correctly, you may not need any Z-offsets to compensate for a mis-calibrated Z. In Slic3r, you could set a "Z-offset" of -3 to compensate for a machine which thinks Z=0 when the hotend is 3mm above the bed. (See ) Then the generated Z-code will start referenced from Z=-3mm and hopefully print on the bed.by DaveX - Reprappers
Re: Heated bed amps - 10 years ago
12 V through a 1.2 ohm heatbed would try to draw 10amps, dissipating 120Watts. A 12V x 5A power supply is only capable of emitting 60W, which will be insufficient for a 120W heated bed. Your power supply is incapable of putting the full 120W or 10A through the heatbed. When you hook the 5V x 16A power supply to the 1.2 ohm heated bed, it pulls the 4.37 amps for about 21W. The power supplyby DaveX - Reprappers