i solved the same problem this morning. grub screw had backed out of the x-axis pulley.by PastaRocket848 - General
if you're used to inventor or solidworks you wil find it to be very gimped. very few featuresby PastaRocket848 - Reprappers
it's hard to convince people.... when your first six posts ever on the forum all happen to be about how great the vendor that has a really, really, really bad reputation is.by PastaRocket848 - General
for the money why not just buy a real makerbot or build a reprap much cheaper? smells like a cheap chinese clone to me.by PastaRocket848 - General
misumiusa.com. they'll cut it accurate to a thousandth for you. it's the best way to go.by PastaRocket848 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
i had the same issue with my aleph objects x-ends until i placed a properly sized spring above the nut. an extra side benefit is that it give you a few mm of upward travel in case you smash the nozzle into the bed. not a replacement for bed springs, though it could be if you were so inclined.by PastaRocket848 - General
i love mixshop. i've ordered from them twice and the parts shipped quickly both times.by PastaRocket848 - General
it's pretty hard to help when all you've said is basically "it doesn't work on my computer". what operating system? do other arduino's show up (as a com port) in the arduino ide? if you use windows, did you install the arduino mega drivers windows requires? with details come useful answers.by PastaRocket848 - General
just use slic3r. almost no configuration necessary, minus the basics.by PastaRocket848 - General
I've switched to Repetier Host software, and it is awesome. The only problem I'm having is that the log says something to the effect of "you can't use VBO's for rendering" when it starts up. This is weird as I have an nvidia quadro workstation card with excellent opengl support. Also, when the print is running the "live print" window goes for a few layers then stops working altogether. Is thiby PastaRocket848 - General
i want the .dxf's just so i can build one out of something other than wood. why they chose wood over aluminum is beyond me... if it were AL or anything else i'd have just ordered one. i hate the idea of using a material that expands with humidity to build a precision machine.by PastaRocket848 - General
Wow lots of <10 posters coming to bat for botmill. Either they turned fantastic overnight and their new happy customers just happened to find this forum, or.... Seems pretty transparent to me. An underhanded. I'll stick with the reputable shops...by PastaRocket848 - General
I don't know how people are building MendelMax's for anywhere near $1000. Like i said before mine totaled out just under $750, and that's with lead screws, precision ground smooth rod with bronze bushings, and a custom y-axis with cast aluminum build plate ground flat to a thousandth. My build was originally $568 total before I added the lead screws and better smooth rod (used threaded/drill roby PastaRocket848 - General
I went with a mendelmax based design and ended up spending about $750 total on the build. The prints are very, very nice.by PastaRocket848 - General
thanks for the advice! i'll give it a shot. i'm using a j-head mkiv-b and ultimachine pla/abs. it's started giving me problems with pla as well now.by PastaRocket848 - General
i'm using slic3r. the temperature seems to be consistent. it doesn't seem to affect anything. it's only ABS that gives me stripping problems. PLA only does it when i set the z-home too lowby PastaRocket848 - General
everything was great with my mendelmax until about a week ago. i had to replace the filament as it had ran out. i had done this many times before with no issues. ever since that time, the extruder simply will not extrude abs. it always strips the filament. on my wade's extruder, i've tried to tighten the springs all the way down, loosen them up, higher temperature (250ish) lower temperatureby PastaRocket848 - General
i switched very early from sprinter/skeinforge to marlin/slic3r and went from laying pools of spaghetti to useful prints with virtually no other change. i attribute most of that to slic3r's less insane configuration settings. the most noticeable difference when comparing the quality of equal parts between sprinter and marlin seems to be on the curves. sprinter will pause a bunch going aroundby PastaRocket848 - Reprappers
MendelMax Maxbots y-axis kit Lulzbot x-axis (about to be swapped to techpaladin's lead screw setup) SDP self-aligning bronze bushings Wade's extruder with J-Head MKIV-B hotend RAMPS 1.4by PastaRocket848 - General
i will also recommend mendelmax (www.mendelmax.com). no "kits" are available (yet), though there is a complete BOM and plastic parts can be bought from a couple vendors (lulzbot and techpaladin... the techpaladin kit being the better option imho). the good thing about the mendelmax is that there is no adjustment necessary. no lining up of rods. and it's not made of a bunch of wiggly threadedby PastaRocket848 - Reprappers
you will set the print temperature in slic3r or skeinforge, then you can change it through the interface realtime as the print progresses. the slic3r/skeinforge setting just sets the temperature initially, after that you can change with the interface. i am not familiar with replicatorg, but i know this is how it works with pronterface. i had a similar issue on marlin firmware when i first seby PastaRocket848 - General
i recently ordered a J-Head MKIV-B for 3mm filament from him as well. Excellent product, fast shipping, couldn't ask for anything more. I'd recommend it to anyone. The J-Head is by far the best performing hot end I've seen (in person) as well. The site says you can't extrude PLA without a fan however I've had no problems at all with it. It oozes a bit, but not enough to cause any problems.by PastaRocket848 - General
is the hot end getting up to temperature properly when you begin the print?by PastaRocket848 - General
where do you source the dibond material?by PastaRocket848 - General
i was thinking carbon fiber plate would make an excellent heat isolation material. i have a ducati with carbon pipes and i can hold my bare hand on them after running for hours and they're barely warm to the touch. that is, of course, carbon sheet laid around a mold and impregnated, but i wouldn't think a 3-4mm plate of the same material would be much different. they also make a honeycomb struby PastaRocket848 - General
i got the plastic parts kit from lulzbot. i am using that long enough to print my own x and y-axis, which will use 20mm t-slot for the y and 10mm (if i can find it, it not then 20mm) t-slot for the x (turned 45 degrees with eccentric-mounted v-groove bearings mounted to a printable carriage plate that engages the edges of the t-slot track). i will also ditch the threaded z-rods for real acme leby PastaRocket848 - General
i did a lot of research on possibly using a second extruder for support material on my mendelmax, though it doesn't seem like the software chain is up to the task just yet. how is makerbot doing it with the replicator? what is their process like in terms of the software side of things? they use replicatorg, no?by PastaRocket848 - General
Thank you very much! It's been a great experience all around. Next up is a milling head and a laser attachment for PCB etching. This is exciting stuff! I thank all of you for all of the work you've done to pave the way for johnny-come-latelys like myself. I do have one question to solve a nagging issue, though. It seems as though (after calibration) all of the prints are coming out very nby PastaRocket848 - General
Hello! First post here. I just finished my first ever reprap project, a MendelMax with RAMPS 1.4. It took probably a month or two worth of intermittent work to complete, and went together VERY easily. I'm using Marlin for the firmware and the calibration was likewise very simple. I expected far more difficulty getting everything lined up and calibrated. I've included a youtube video of my fby PastaRocket848 - General