Check out this part that is further up in this forum. There is a problem in the code for the feedrates when moving for bed leveling. #define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 6000 // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min This is not only used for XY travel but also for Z travel. That is the reason the Z motor stall. I fixed some things in the code so that the Z moves uses the homing_feedrate anby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bob The servo it's self only needs one pin to drive it. The other two pins are simply a ground and a +5V supply pin. Any board that brings out the same spare pin as the Ramps uses can easily be set up to do this. I would be interested in know how someone has done that with a Printrboard. I have a box full of them that I haven't used yet and would like to add this feature using theseby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quotehcker2000 So I'm building a rather large i3. The rough size is three square feet. Needless to say the stock frog plate (i think thats what its called) wont work. So I need some feedback on a good way to mount a build surface to this beast. I need to keep it light weight as I'm still using nema17 motors. I will be printing pla mostly and am not planing on running a heated bed at this point. Iby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Anyone know where to get aluminium T slot 30x30 in Australia? Seems very hard to find here, I haven't been able to source it at all.by regpye - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotepaucus Someone did some experiments with coloring the white filament with whiteboard markers, and it seemed promising. Mark the filament before you heat it, but the software needs to estimate accurately how much filament it is using, so it can color it ahead of the time it will need it... what do you think? Or what about injecting dye? of course you have to heat it so it won't steam and maby regpye - Developers
Quoteuncle_bob For what ever reason, people seem to have switch troubles. A real Micro Switch (yes it's a trademark) should get you below 0.01 mm. You can set up with a micrometer and check them pretty easily. The only time you usually have trouble with them is when you are hitting the arm or actuator in a way that's not repeatable. One example is using the straight arm style at the tip of theby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quoteagirgen Uggh, I don't know... Inconsistent results? I followed the instructions and it worked once. After that it didn't. I have attached a video as well as my Configuration.h file. In the video, you can clearly see that the gap between the extruder and the glass isn't constant... And this is with the bed very level. Just doesn't seem to be doing what it's supposed to... Maybe I'm missby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quoteagirgen So far I have spent roughly 10 hours trying to get this to work properly. I could of manually leveled my print bed 60+ times in that amount of time. Not sure this is worth it. What kind of issues are you having? I also had a few problems, but once sorted out the leveling is so easy now. I have put it on all my current machines and not had to level any of them manually at all.by regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bob An 8 x 8 array would give you a grid of points. Simple answer to one corner being out is to make the bed flat. For what ever odd reason, many beds drift up and down, but they stay flat. 1) Is your glass flat when not clamped to anything? if not, replace it, it's cheap to do. 2) Is your glass flat when it's clamped only in two places? (not 3 or 4) 3) Is your heater bowing up inby regpye - General Mendel Topics
QuoteWired1 I am a big fan if the Printrboard, it is the simplest and fastest one board controller I have used and with the bootloader option is as easy to use as anything else out there - and it is cheaper too. However... and there is always a big BUT with anything cheaper it seems, they do have an issue with the output mosfets blowing. I guess they were never designed for the higher current capby regpye - Reprappers
Quotesach00 please find the attach pla leaking pic If the nozzle doesn't touch the heater block you will get a good seal in most cases. The tapered end of the threaded section should close tight on to the nozzle, but if the nozzle is touching the heater block it can't do that. My design is very similar to the original that you have. The threaded section has a 118 degree taper and the nozzle hasby regpye - Reprappers
Quoteuncle_bob Apparently the servo world started out at 4.5 to 4.8V as a standard battery supply and they have been moving up in voltage ever since. The newer battery packs are all up around 6 to 6.5 volts. They still should have enough range to work on 5V.... I am having no problems with my machines. All three of them are using the same setup, TGY-1800A servo and the 7805 voltage regulator. Iby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bob Like most servo information, it's not really very detailed. That's not a knock on this specific one, none of them seem to be spec'd out the way a NEMA-17 stepper would be. My concern is that you only have a limited amount of current available from the Mega regulator. If one has their +12 running ummm .... errrrr... a bit high, it's a bit more of a concern. On the other hand, if tby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bob Any idea how much current the servo pulls? I'd guess the answer at rest is "next to nothing". It's the curent while the arm is swinging that I'm wondering about. It doesn't seem to be much. Not been able to measure any. Anyway, here is the link to some further information about it. Turnigy micro servo TGY-1800Aby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bob If you talk to the airplane guys (they use a lot of servos) not all servos are created equal. The term 9 gram servo covers a vast range of parts that don't have the same interface / size / footprint / torque / range / .... We probably need to get a bit more specific on which servos are working well and which ones are best avoided. I am having success with a servo bought from Hobbby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quotedanlyc Alex, Do you still want to perform the "semi auto" EEPROM test? I am ok if you need help. Cheers Daniel I am willing to test it tooby regpye - General Mendel Topics
I noticed on my setup that the homing and the second probing point are very close together. Although the levelling is working fine, I feel it would be better if mine was to have the second probing in the opposite corner. I have tried changing the locations in the setup, but have not been successful in getting it right. Here are a couple of images to show what I mean a little clearer. (you may nby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bob If the end of the thread rod makes contact with the top of the motor shaft as it rocks back and forth you have a really bad situation. You loose all isolation when that happens. With the plastic tube you need enough tube to allow for some flex as well. Depending on the design of the coupler you could have very similar issues. That is why I use a ball, it removes the problem. If tby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bob The micro switch *should* be very consistent if the speed is fairly slow. It's a millisecond action / milliseconds bounce sort of gizmo. If you use the plastic tube, it can wear out. You also don't want to much or to little plastic between the motor and the thread rod. You need an air gap, but not much of one. How much is that ... I don't know ... looks like about a mm or so. Alby regpye - General Mendel Topics
wdl1908 , I would have to agree about the micro switches. I found the same problem when using for Z homing on my machines before auto bed levelling, I could never get an accurate repeatable homing using a micro switch. I changed to several different ones and some where more repeatable than others. In the end I changed over to using a hall effect sensor and a magnet. The magnet I mounted to aby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Zip ties have another advantage. They are a weak link and if there happens to be a nozzle to bed crash, the zip is the first thing to go without doing any damage to the rest of the printer. I always use zip ties on the X carriage, but I use wire on the Y axis linear bearings. Never had a problem with the zip ties, and they have saved me a lot of expense a couple of times when setting up a new priby regpye - General Mendel Topics
I only changed the code in the config at this stage, will try with the config.adv as well. Also the Marlin_main.cpp code, will check that out too. I have to try and fit many things into the day and night, so I don't have a lot of time to work on the printer as I would like.by regpye - General Mendel Topics
I have changed the settings to be very small for the Z axis, and it is working fine now. Next step is to print new mounts for the hotend cooling fan and also the servo and swap their positions so that the servo will be able to reach the bed while homing. It was silly of me not to have seen that when I first designed the mount. I guess I will then have to re-calculate all the positions again. Anyby regpye - General Mendel Topics
QuoteRicardoGA regpye let me know if you have a problem, i leave you my configuration and configuration adv files, i´m using 2 pololu to drive my z axis Thanks RicardoGA, I have checked my configuration.h and the Z feedrates are very small. Will try the dual motors later and see if it makes any difference. I will use your files as a quide. Cheers.by regpye - General Mendel Topics
Thanks RicardoGA for that info, I will check it out. I do have a spare Pololu available, might try that also. Seems strange that the Z drives work 100% until I use a G29, that is when all the problems start.by regpye - General Mendel Topics
I checked my setup and adjusted the power on the Z motors. If I do a Z homing the motors work fine and I can also run the motors up and down without any problem. When I enter a G29 the Z motors make a loud noise now and don't move. After a short time the probe moves to the next location and tries to probe, but has some difficulty because the Z motor hasn't lifted. (still making a noise) Same withby regpye - General Mendel Topics
For the 5 volts I used a 7805 regulator and put the 1 and 2 pins in the power plug of the 12 volts input to the RAMPS board. Pin 3 (output) I took a lead to the 5 volt point on the RAMPS board. Works easy and the correct voltage.by regpye - General Mendel Topics
I am having a few problems with the setup that I have. A few things are not working properly so I guess I have done something dumb. I have the servo moving properly, happy with that. When I do a G28 the homing works,BUT the probe is nowhere near the bed, in fact I have to shut down before the z axis bottoms out. If I home the x and Y manually and then centre the bed, I can do a Z homing and the pby regpye - General Mendel Topics
QuoteBig D I am trying to hook an lcd to a ramps 1.4 that is using sprinter firmware and all I get is 2 rows of blocks. I have 2 boards and get the same results from both. So I bought another lcd from a different place and it does the same thing. Apparently it must be something with my board and/or firmware but I can't seem to find out where the problem is. I am using arduino 1.05 and btw the 2 bby regpye - General Mendel Topics
If you use a heat insulator like those used for mounting power transistors, between the stainless steel bolts and the brass end, the heat transferred to the stainless bolts will be much less and that will reduce the expansion of the bolts. Mica washers or ceramic washers if you can find them may also be useful. You could also turn some very small stepped washers that insulate all around the boltsby regpye - General