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Everybody here is a developer. Share what you are doing !
Re: Extruders and HotEnds everywhere ! - 12 years ago
I bought four QU-BD extruders, worst mistake I ever made, they are absolute rubbish. I had to make several changes to them and still they are not that much good. I wonder what their other products will be like??? I am now looking for PG35L geared stepper in order to make a descent extruder that will do the job. Not available in Australia however, so I may have to look elsewhere for the PG35L gby regpye - General
Re: Is it reliable? - 12 years ago
I have bought many things from reprapdiscount and found them to be very good with both price, service and postage. Not sure if this is the same guy, but he has the same name. Why not get from reprapdiscount on ebay and then you will be sure.by regpye - Wanted
Looking for PM motor - 12 years ago
I am looking for several PG35L-048 permanent magnet geared motors. Don't seem to be able to find any in Australia. Has anyone got sources of these? Please let me know as I want to use them for extruder drives. Thanks, Regby regpye - Wanted
Re: Blue tape in Adelaide - 12 years ago
PVA glue with 70% metho works much better, dries quicker and makes a nice syrupy adhesive that can be applied lightly with your fingers. If you put on too much the printed part can be hard to remove, so I put in a bucket of water for a few minutes and it comes off easy.by regpye - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Re: Print directly on glass? or on PET? for ABS - 12 years ago
Try mixing the PVA with 70% metholated spirits, it works much better than using water and dries quicker too.by regpye - Printing
Re: ABS sticking too well to glass using ABS glue - 12 years ago
I have been using a mixture of PVA glue and 70% metholated spirits to make and adhesive for printing on. The adhesive will spread very easily over a glass plate and will dry in a few minutes. DON'T put too much on. Print as normal and take glass off machine to allow to cool. Print should lift off without too much effort, but if you have put too much adhesive on, just place the glass build plate iby regpye - Printing
Re: What have I done wrong?? (Fixed) - 12 years ago
All working now. Was a file problem.by regpye - General
Re: What have I done wrong?? - 12 years ago
Thanks guys for your comments. I checked the files and found that I had a corrupt file and loaded a new version saved on my other computer. I re-flashed and the problem was fixed. I did check the limit switch, it was working OK. I also checked all the wiring in case a lead had come off. Not sure how a text file could be corrupted, but after replacing both configuration.h and pins.h the probleby regpye - General
What have I done wrong?? - 12 years ago
Calling on all the brains out there, cos mine in not working too good. I have been setting up a machine that has been previously working OK, but I needed to change the extruder settings to get the correct filament output. All that went well, but when I tried to use the machine a strange thing has happened. The Y axis will not home any more. It just makes a short movement towards home and stops.by regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
OK, I think I understand now. It is setup correctly (even though confusing) The bed doesn't move for the X axis, so it appears to move in the right direction. The Y axis the bed moves to suit the position of the head, so that is correct as well, but appears wrong when viewing it from the control window. Maybe the control window in Pronterface should be changed to reflect this?? (just a thought)by regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
Thanks jamesdanielv , Going by what you are saying, the X axis is wrong then?? Because that moves in the direction that the arrows show in Pronterface, but the Y axis moves the opposite way. Doesn't make sense to me. Part prints OK and is the right way up.by regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
Thanks Andrew, I have the machine setup and printing correctly, but Pronterface operates backwards on the Y axis. The Y axis moves in a negative direction when the Y positive is pressed and in a positive direction when the negative button is pressed.by regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
Yes, the part shown on the screen and the part printed on the print bed are identical. No problem there. It is just that the movements in Pronterface work backwards on the printer for the Y axis.by regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
The print is now correct. The movements in the Pronterface window are not correct. X axis is OK and works the way it shows on the screen. The Y axis is no OK, it works opposite to the screen. It seems that I either have the print mirrored or the Y axis in the control software is backwards. Don't seem to be able to get both correct at the same time. There has to be a solution.by regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
Using the following configuration the print is the correct way up and not a mirror image. That part is now working fine, BUT, Pronterface now has the -Y and +Y back to front, up is down, down is up. #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR true // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false ---- changed from false must reverse wby regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
The multiple endstops were only added after the problem was found. They were added to save time in swapping things around all the time, because I have been trying to work this problem out for a while now. No-one seems to know how to fix it yet, as I have tried just about all I can think of to get both the machine printing correctly and also have the movements in Pronterface work correctly at theby regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
Thanks bobc and banjer for the help. I have tried all of that and I have put an endstop at each end to make it easier to swap while doing testing. I have also done the same on the X axis too. Have inverted in the settings and also reversed the motor wiring a few times. If I get the print the correct way about then the movements in Pronterface are wrong. (up is down and down is up on the Y axisby regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
//=========================================================================== //=============================Mechanical Settings=========================== //=========================================================================== // Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics // #define COREXY // corse Endstop Settings #define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at theby regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
Here are some shots of the problem, hope it makes it a bit clearer. The actual print (very poor quality photo, but it shows the problem) What is printed How it looks in Pronterfaceby regpye - General
Re: printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
Actually Yes, that would be correct., if I am printing a letter R, the top of the R would be facing the lower edge of the bed and the leg of the R would be facing the left hand side rather than the right hand side (if viewed as the letter R should be viewed). In the print layout window of Pronterface, the letter R would be showing the correct way up and also the correct way around, just like thisby regpye - General
printing upside down and back to front - 12 years ago
Please help anyone if you know how to correct this problem. I just finished building a machine and it is working fine, except that I noticed that it is printing upside down and back to front. With most items they are symmetrical, so it goes unnoticed and doesn't matter, BUT, I went to print a handed part and that is when I found the problem. Checking Printerface which I use for controlling theby regpye - General
Re: Prusa i3 or PrusaAir2 - 12 years ago
This is not a Prusa Air2, but the idea of the design was based on that machine. www.regpye.com.au It may give you some ideas on how to go about building a solid and well sized machine using a few different approaches to parts and assembly. Cheers Regby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Re: Y axis slipping. - 12 years ago
Have you checked if the stepper driver has been adjusted correctly? If turned up too high the stepper driver will shut down to protect itself. If turned down too low you will get a similar situation because there is not enough power to drive the motor.by regpye - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extrusion flow - 12 years ago
It sounds to me like the stepper driver is incorrectly set for the extruder. If you have the amps turned up too much the driver will shut down for a short time so it can recover and can be a very short cycle that is hard to notice. This will give you a pulsed output that will result in a lowered filament output like you are describing. The same can happen if the stepper driver gets too hot dueby regpye - Printing
Re: 618 on glass! - 12 years ago
I have been using PVA (Aquadhere wood glue) mixed with 60% mentholated spirits and I just rub a small amount all over the glass area that I print on. Dries very quickly and I have never had a warped print or had one come off. The biggest problem is removing the print afterwards, but I found that if I put the glass in a bucket of water with the print still attached, it comes off easy after about 2by regpye - Printing
Re: Printrboard w/Silicone Heated Bed - 12 years ago
I have a Prusa Air divertive called the Genie and it uses Printrboard electronics. I have two versions of heat bed, one is 12 volt DC using a heat pad directly controlled by the Printrboard (heat pad needs to be low amperage like no more than 85 watts) and the other is mains powered using a solidstate relay that is controlled by the Printrboard and the relay switched the mains power. Both work fiby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Re: Ditching the Print Bottom Plate... Taking Suggestions - 12 years ago
Hi, You might want to do something like I have done. I used aluminium 3mm thick for both the top and bottom plates and clipped a sheet of 3mm glass to the top plate to print on. I didn't use springs because I had issues with them in the past, so I made some silicone rubber donuts that still allowed me to level the bed, but were very rigid compared to springs. I have a build site that shows the whby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Re: PLA First Layer Curling off bed when filling... - 12 years ago
If you are printing on glass, try this, it works for me every time. Get some methylated spirits (alcohol) and add a very small amount of PVA glue to it. You can also do it by adding a drop of glue to your glass print bed and putting a little metho on and mixing with your fingers spreading out evenly at the same time. Allow it to dry (few minutes) and then make your print. If you add too much glueby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Re: My first RepRap - Prusa Air V2 - 12 years ago
Hi Ash, The first machine I built had wooden parts instead of plastic. I was then able to print out plastic parts and found the problems, so I re-designed everything in aluminium. I am using a modified QU-BD extruder direct drive, very light and reliable. I also make my own now for the other machines. I found a problem with the Z nuts on your model, I ran several spools of filament through theby regpye - Look what I made!
Re: Place to put "Look what I made" - 12 years ago
Thanks Andrew, That will be great. I have actually named the new machine as a Prusa Air Genie as it is so different from a standard Air2. I will be taking some photos and video during the next few weeks. So you think that details of the features would be best in still shots? Cheers, Regby regpye - Look what I made!