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Re: IR heat lamp heated ABS build: - 10 years ago
@jamesdanielv: That makes sense - maybe one could add an indicator LED - if the IR contraption sits inside a closed chamber with reflective walls, including the access hatch/door, I don't see any problem with that. Open designs however, might be better off with light bulbs emitting partly visible light. @A2: Because IR directly heats the object, I thought it could be useful as it might not infriby uGen - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) 
[Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
@tjb1: yes, I am aware that Ultimaker provides minimal information about their parts in their shop. However, their BOM on github reveals more (still, no operating temperatures. A search for the part number didn't return useful results.). What I intended to say, though, is that E3D could look into selling thermocouples similar to the Ultimaker one as the form factor is better for thermal transferby uGen - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
@Ohmarinus: I am using a 1.75mm E3D v4 hotend. PLA and everything else I throw at it work like a charm (except of PC-ABS and PC at the moment, which still need some calibration). Not a single jam, although I frequently change filament with the most varying properties possible. However, I think I might use the 3mm system for my next printer as some materials like PP, PE, PVDF and PA6 are availableby uGen - General
Re: who decides to close a thread - 10 years ago
As someone who actively partook in the mentioned thread, I wondered when the moderators would jump in to calm the situation, but I didn't expect the closure of the thread without any warning (that was visible to me, anyway). In some earlier cases, I have seen the mods step to action by calling out users for inappropriate actions / words, so immediate closure took me a little bit by surprise. Stilby uGen - General
Re: Infill 3D SunBurn hot end? - 10 years ago
You have been rude and belittling to Sanjay, who didn't even attack you in any way nor did he ridicule the Sunburn hotend. I originally only joined the thread to point this out because I hate to see rude behavior in this forum. There are other places like 4chan for this conduct. People, me included, are less willing to help when you behave like that. For a lot of us, open source licensing is a rby uGen - General
Re: Infill 3D SunBurn hot end? - 10 years ago
ITT: Angry American belittling others (nothing against Americans in general). QuoteGSM Using your cute British therms [...] Well, American English is derived from British English, so how about paying some respect to it? Joking aside, why are you even attacking Sanjay? He just came here to clarify the order of derivation (ok, he is wrong in some aspects like that they didn't provide drawings) anby uGen - General
Re: A weak section is recurring - 10 years ago
This may not exactly be related, but I have found the layer bond strength to be a little bit too low when I print PLA at under 200°C. The best temperature was 210°C, at which the parts become rock solid. However, this doesn't explain why the part becomes strong again after a weak section. In which way is the structure weak? Bad layer bonding or irregular extrusion or...?by uGen - General
Re: IR heat lamp heated ABS build: - 10 years ago
By the way, if every printed part of a printer in an IR build chamber is covered in aluminium tape or foil, theoretically, one could also use plastics with a relatively low softening point since aluminium reflects up to 98% of IR radiation. This could possibly also be used to direct the radiation to hit the object from all sides for optimum heating. I don't know yet how all these theories play ouby uGen - General
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
If you can look through the layers top-down, it doesn't quite sound like a filament humidity problem to me. But then again, bubbles caused by humidity could have also been displaced by the higher pressure you are applying with the hot, wide and slow method...by uGen - General
Re: IR heat lamp heated ABS build: - 10 years ago
I am a little bit against using lamps with visible spectrum parts because if one was to implement a chamber temperature control, the constant flashing would drive the operator insane. But as a makeshift test, yeah, why not? These here seem to be IR-only: Heat control might be a little bit tricky. As you don't heat the air directly, you can't just put some thermistor in your chamber. I guessby uGen - General
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
You are welcome! I found out the wide extrusion part by chance, actually, as I was reading the book "Generative Fertigungsverfahren" (generative production processes), a rather comprehensive book about additive manufacturing for my bachelor thesis. They described each industrial technology, so it just happened that in the part about FDM, this crucial piece of information was revealed to me. And iby uGen - General
Re: IR heat lamp heated ABS build: - 10 years ago
Any updates on equipping your printer with an IR light, aduy? Considering Stratasys' hold on the heated chamber patent, an IR based solution might be a possibility to circumvent that. After all, plastic is absorbing IR light readily, so what we are heating is not the build environment, but the object itself.by uGen - General
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
No, not that I know of. UHU brand glue stick seems to be sort of the German equivalent to Elmer brand. I think you should be able to get UHU in the US, too, but it may be sold under a different name. Ok, finally got around to photograph and shrink the images a bit. As you can see, I could still pry the object apart between the layers. This, however, was much harder to do than before. There arby uGen - General
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
UHU gluestick on Kapton @100°C heated bed held the Polycarbonate fairly well for me. Wet filament also contributes to bad layer adhesion IIRC, so your problems might also be caused by that since I have read from others that the Ultimachine PC prints very well at 260°C.by uGen - General
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
Hey guys, I have good news! After numerous failed prints, I tried following settings: 0.1mm layer height 0.6mm extrusion width (I have read that commercial machines have extrusion widths of 3.5-5 times the layer height to ensure that sufficient pressure is being applied for optimum layer adhesion) 10mm/sec for perimeters and infill 300°C nozzle temperature 100°C bed temperature Material: PC-ABS,by uGen - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
They probably supplied a thermistor because most of the RepRappers out there don't have the setup to use thermocouples. Besides, most materials print fine below 300°C. Only with the PC-ABS from RepRapWorld and Polycarbonate from an Ebay seller I had to bump temperatures up to 300°C and those are still not printing fine, but that's more a material issue than anything else. Checking the temperatureby uGen - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
@mrPrik: I have a black PLA fan duct sitting right next to the heater block of an E3D hot end running at 300°C without problems. The fan isn't even running most of the time. How I get away with it: I wrapped the fan duct in aluminium adhesive tape to reflect the infrared radiation (aluminium is really good at doing that), so the only heat that the fan duct gets is through convection. As the carriby uGen - General
Re: RepRapPro Ormerod - 10 years ago
The controller board looks interesting... anyone got more info about that except of the github repository and official announcement? Hope they will also sell it individually.by uGen - Ormerod
Re: hard coating - 10 years ago
Taulman's T-Glase filament isn't acrylic. It's PET, which also is rather hard (and brittle in the case of the filament I bought from plastic2print). There was a thread in the German subforum where someone used snap-off blade segments embedded in a printed receptacle as a drive gear. Sort of closest I can think of to what you envision.by uGen - General
Re: uhmw - 10 years ago
No, you can't really extrude it according to the information I collected (OK, maybe you can technically extrude UHMWPE, but you won't have much success printing it). The reason is that it requires a lot of pressure to properly bond together for some reason. AFAIK, one processing option is sintering, albeit I guess that refers to sintering under a lot of pressure and not the laser sintering.by uGen - General New Machines Topics
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
If the hot air "only" reaches 98°C, you might not even need a metal duct. After watching this interesting video, I (sloppily) tested the mechanical properties at elevated temperatures of the taulman 645 nylon that I am trying out now. A test piece placed on a heated bed at 110°C (won't go higher) was a little bit more bendable than a cold one, but it returned to original shape after I stopped appby uGen - General
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
I have bought this little device some time ago, but never really implemented it (intended for a heated build chamber). Lasers are a little bit dangerous in my opinion - reflecting off the heated bed's surface and whatnot. The linked PTC heater is designed to work with fans blowing across it, so a ducted affair strapped to the carriage might be feasible. Sort of a miniature version of your space hby uGen - General
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
Actually, I found this out yesterday already, but didn't really have time to post it yet: We are one step closer to successfully printing PC-ABS and PC (other than that from Ultimachine, of which there are multiple accounts of success already). Currently, I am reading the book "Generative Fertigungsverfahren: Rapid Prototyping - Rapid Tooling - Rapid Manufacturing" (3rd edition) in which pretty mby uGen - General
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
Update: Drying the PC-ABS in my drying chamber didn't yield any effects at all. I didn't try to print the pure PC after seeing the PC-ABS fail again. Instead, I asked the instructor of our plastics workshop if he had any idea what could prevent the layers from adhering to each other. He offered me two possible scenarios: 1. The print temperature is too low - I was printing at a measured 300°C atby uGen - General
Re: Water cooled all metal hotend with 2 Bowdens and one heaterblock - 10 years ago
Having had some uncolored ABS on a heated bed (80-90°C) get brown during long prints made me a little sensitive about thermal degradation. But maybe the discoloration had no detrimental effect to the mechanical properties at all. I can't know for sure as I have no means of measuring those.by uGen - General
Re: Water cooled all metal hotend with 2 Bowdens and one heaterblock - 10 years ago
Looks interesting, but one thing I am not sure about is how filament in the hotend will react to being exposed to heat for a long time, for example when you print a long time with one color and then switch to the other color or when you only print with one color in a print. Did you notice any effects like thermal degradation of the filament?by uGen - General
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
The thing is that the PC-ABS I got from RepRapWorld is "USA branded" according to them. "USA branded" filaments cost more than their decent standard filament. I haven't tried their more expensive ABS filament, only the PC-ABS. Upon further investigation, it turns out that the manufacturer is 3Dthermoplastics, which seems to be in some way affiliated with inDimension³. To be honest, the filamentby uGen - General
Re: Layer Adhesion Problems with ABS-PC and Polycarbonate - 10 years ago
Yes, Matweb gives a range from 250-330°C as processing temperature for PC-ABS depending on the blend. However, the thermal decomposition temperature of ABS is around 260-275°C-ish, again depending on the blend. I tried to extrude at 250°C because I assumed thermal decomposition might have played a role in bad layer adhesion, but that was not the case after all. I am drying the filament right nowby uGen - General
Re: PLA, CA Glue & Acetone? - 10 years ago
Tesa was a little bit expensive compared to UHU, if I remember correctly, but if the surface is reusable, maybe the investment pays off?by uGen - General
Re: PLA, CA Glue & Acetone? - 10 years ago
I tried glue stick on heated and on unheated glass. Tombow brand glue stick works best with a heated platform at 60°C. After cooling down, the prints can be easily snapped off the glass plate. The surface is reusable several times. UHU brand glue stick works so well, you can print on an unheated platform. But getting the prints off the glass is a little bit more difficult. You have to apply a newby uGen - General