Kisslicer makes excellent easy to remove support on a single head machine. It's at least worth trying before you fork out for a new printer!by konwiddak - General
Just purging mine will do 150mm/min with 190c pla quite happily. I'm sure it will go higher, but I have no need. Print speeds of 150mm/s are possible although I do loose massive quality for other reasons then!by konwiddak - General
macsoft Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Are these softwares Slic3r and kisslicer for mac > also? > I remember my hotend was acting up. i may need > another. What should i get now that works with my > prusa, but has some more quality? > What about firrmware for RAMPS, any new thing I > can try? > > thanks +1 for a j-head mk5 - works fanby konwiddak - General
Main difference is a massive print quality increase over the past two years. Also many people have some pretty quick machines now which are able to maintain quality. Printing is often done with much thinner layer heights - my standard is 0.2mm and I regularly use 0.1mm on a 0.5mm nozzle. Slicer software has come a long way in terms of print quality and ease of use. Slic3r and kisslicer are nowby konwiddak - General
konstantin.neo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi. > What is the reasoning behind 3mm and 1.75mm? Those > are not imperial standard. I guess one could make > custom filament size and print with it too. > Why not 1/16 or 5/64? Because the reprap project originated in the UK where we don't use these funny units! (apart from for driving.....)by konwiddak - General
Somewhere in Configuration.h you can reverse axis direction. Or you can wire your z steppers the other way round. Also on your axis steps per unit I think you want to round z steps down to only 2 decimal places or else you can get numerical imprecision banding on your prints.by konwiddak - Reprappers
This is can also be caused if your first layer is too close to the bed. Try raising your first layer very slightly.by konwiddak - General
Default marlin jerk is quite high. Try a jerk of 10 and an acceleration of 500 and work upwards from there. Also if printing pla use a fan.by konwiddak - Printing
DaveX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you need a flat, you can make one with a file. > I put some masking tape over the bearing to > protect mine from the filings while I did it. +1 You don't need that much of a flat for a grub screw to hold.by konwiddak - General
Your z rods must be very parallel or else you can get this problem. Also try low z axis speed.by konwiddak - General
draregerreip Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the tip. As I don't have nor plan to > install a heated bed, I'll try that. That was the attitude I originally had - however a heated bed was the best upgrade I ever did! It just removes so much of the faff from printing. Large parts always stick, no corner lifts, no annoying tape to apply, small thingby konwiddak - Printing
I get it now! Removing the centres of normal bearings and polishing them a bit makes some quite good - very cheap bushings.by konwiddak - Developers
Polygonhell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It looks like you're using linear bearings on the > rotating rods, they aren't designed for that and > will fail very quickly. > The ultimaker uses brass bushings on rhose rods > for that reason and Tantillus uses PLA bushings > for the same reason. I don't see how these rods are rotating.by konwiddak - Developers
Try creo elements - you have to register and say "I'm a student" but you don't have to give any more details. It's a bit like sketchup in operation but much much more powerful. Only downside is it only saves to a proprietary format or stl. (unless you pay monies!) It's made by the same people as pro engineer.by konwiddak - General
thejollygrimreaper Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > bear in mind , not all hair spray is the same, you > want it to go on the glass nice and clear, if it > leaves white residue it's not going to work > anywhere near as well, +1 I have used some went on clear and that didn't work either. Hence why I tried sugar water.by konwiddak - General
Blue tape has a thin waxy/plastic coating to stop paint soaking through when using it for masking. I presume this is what helps it stick - the plastic must fuse to it a bit. Also if your having difficulty making prints stick to a hot bed try a thin layer of sugar water - 1cm of sugar dissolved in 3cm of water works well for me. Wipe a thin layer on with a cloth.by konwiddak - General
I just use M6 threaded rod with 40kg/cm steppers. I don't see why the lulzbot would need to use anything beefier. I think it has proper leadscrews for precision.by konwiddak - General
seekerky Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That sounds like 2 diff solutions: 1) fixing the > firmware; 2) changing the printer's behavior just > before printing > > I like the idea of fixing the x-y position (even > Z?) and then starting your prints > > Can you share more details of how you do that? I > hope I don't have to fiddle withby konwiddak - General
With a mechanical end stop I have been planning to wire up my z end stop in the normally open configuration and wire up the fan in the normally closed configuration to the same switch. When at z=0 the fan will switch off, but for all other layers it will turn on.by konwiddak - General
xiando Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm curious why you use such oversized threaded > and smooth rod for this design. wouldn't 1/4" ( or > 7mm) be better suited to such a small footprint > design? And wouldn't the $$ savings be better > spent on a precision rod rather than general > purpose ACME to reduce backlash? Over 500mm the deflection iby konwiddak - General
I brought a pair of 500mm long 12mm stainless steel rods off ebay for about £7 each. They aren't precision ground, but seem perfectly straight and are bang on 12mm. I stuck them both in a drill, spun them round and polished them to a shiny finish with some brasso. So far they have worked perfectly. I have also done the same with 8mm rods but I didn't polish them and they seem to be fine too.by konwiddak - General
> Emaker shop Think3dPrint3d > > Guys name is roland very helpfull drop him an > email. I have also used one of these motors and it works fine.by konwiddak - General
Bobbitay Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How is backlash accounted for by your retraction > distance? It doesn't make a bigger move when going > forward again (extruding) no matter what the > retraction value is - it will always have the same > clearance (backlash) between the gear teeth. I > don't think it matters, though. If you keep going inby konwiddak - General
In an extruder I'm pretty sure there is no real advantage of removing backlash. Any backlash is accounted for by your retraction distance.by konwiddak - General
If the model is 100% thin wall and the thickness is less than the extrusion width it generates no paths and throws an error.by konwiddak - Reprappers
sls2go Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > how much faster is the TK0 compared to something > like a Stratasys Mojo? or even a Stratasys > Dimension? I believe all the commercial printers are pretty slow compared to what many people get out of their repraps.by konwiddak - General
If you load a single walled object with a wall thickness thinner than your path width kisslicer says no just like this.by konwiddak - Reprappers
To get rid of the blobs you need to change your slicer from "absolute E distnces" to "relative E distances", or you can change your firmware from relative to absolute. Also you can calibrate E without printing.by konwiddak - Reprappers
Have you got any example prints at 250mm/s 0.1mm layers? What acceleration do you use? The speed I can believe, but I'd like to see how minimal a resonance pattern you are getting! My printer will happily move that fast, but to keep prints nice at even say 100mm/s I have to have quite low acceleration, and I'm trying to figure out where your machine gains it's performance advantage.by konwiddak - General
I prefer to fiddle with firmware and place the centre of my bed at (0,0) - it just seems like a much nicer way of doing it! It allows you to print in specific locations (to avoid damaged tape or print where your pva/sugar water coating is still nice) very easily. Just put the head where you want to print send G92 X0 Y0 and print.by konwiddak - General