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Everybody here is a developer. Share what you are doing !
Re: Resoldering a NEMA 17 - 8 years ago
Quotestephenrc Probably, but do not remove the rotor from the stator housing. If you remove the rotor, the stepper motor will lose torque. Why is this?by epicepee - General
Re: Video guidance - 8 years ago
3D printers rarely require hand-modified gcode. We usually just use a slicer. That being said, an explanation of how gcode works, and what it means, could be very nice!by epicepee - Developers
Re: Electric pencil on a RepRap - 8 years ago
So this is essentially EDM, with air as the electrolyte and a pencil as the electrode? Sounds fascinating!by epicepee - General
Re: Electric pencil on a RepRap - 8 years ago
Sorry, but what's an electric pencil?by epicepee - General
Re: 3D Printer Regulatory Compliance - 8 years ago
I am not sure, but I bet you could ask Lulzbot. They sell worldwide (as far as I know) and they are very open-source friendly.by epicepee - Developers
Re: Need some help getting printer to connect with CURA $25.00 Paypal - 8 years ago
Try Pronterface. If it works, then the issue is Cura. If not, it's probably your controller.by epicepee - Printing
Re: Strange Z-banding/ribbing - 8 years ago
Check if the z-screw is bent, or if your z-axis in general is at all loose.by epicepee - Printing
Re: A question about printheads? - 8 years ago
That sounds difficult, especially since most printheads won't have that many rows of nozzles, even if they are close enough together. If you don't want to move your whole effector, have you considered attaching a dedicated one-axis actuator that can move the inkjet head back and forth the short distance you need?by epicepee - General
Re: Auto bed levelling for XXL Printer - 8 years ago
Though dc42 is of course a bit biased, he's quite correct. A Smoothie, Duet, Azteeg x5, or clone of any of the above should be able to change its bed-levelling behavior, and any other firmware behavior, on the fly. Though of course the correct solution is to use a bed that's stiff enough and flat enough that only three points are necessary for levelling...by epicepee - Reprappers
NEMA 34 extruder - 8 years ago
I have come across a NEMA 34 stepper, and I thought it might be fun to build an extruder around it. It's an M091-FD03, described here (look on page 3, third line down, at the "bipolar" section). It would be Bowden, because I have a delta, and it probably couldn't even lift the motor. On the other hand, the excess torque (about 180 oz-in holding) would let me use a large drive gear to get bettby epicepee - Developers
Re: My new driving gear design. - 8 years ago
Looks great! I wonder if it would work even better with some really shallow, sharp teeth, like what you'd get if you scratched it with a wire brush.by epicepee - Developers
Re: Firmware bug - retraction speed - 8 years ago
I hope this doesn't sound stupid but... could you just up the speed to 4x what you want? EDIT: It appears that Marlin will divide it until it's under the hard limit of 40,000 steps per second. Perhaps repetier-firmware or Teacup would be the best solution.by epicepee - General
Re: Bowden construction as a direct extruder - 8 years ago
I don't see much correlation between bowden/direct and ungeared/geared. I can say, however, that geared extruders are generally more precise and have more torque, but also more complicated and less reliable. Most people seem to like geared extruders, but I've been using a direct-drive Bowden for a while and I've loved it.by epicepee - Reprappers
Re: Volcano 1.2mm nozzle extrusion fail - 8 years ago
While that variation will be present, it's all but invisible on extrusion. This is especially true with this huge nozzle which would place the steps closer together.by epicepee - Reprappers
Capacitive encoders - 8 years ago
I recently saw a tutorial involving the cheap (~$20) digital calipers one can buy on one's shopping site of choice. While the calipers themselves have a few important limitations, the principle upon which they function is very interesting. Essentially, they place a row of small, insulated pads on the main PCB next to a similar, but more widely-spaced, row on a PCB that's glued to the body ofby epicepee - Developers
Re: Innovative new type of extruder: the Vaeder V-struder - 8 years ago
Are the STLs available yet?by epicepee - General
Re: Pololu geared DC motor 30g prototype extruder - 8 years ago
As absurd as it looks (which it does), that's a great idea. This should let us work on the hardware and software separately. It might even be a good idea to create a nema-17-to-n20 adapter for the opposite task, if possible.by epicepee - General
Re: Lets say you were given 10K to spend on printers..... - 8 years ago
Calling the_digital_dentist!by epicepee - General
Re: Mechaduino Closed-loop Stepper - 8 years ago
What do you see as the advantages and disadvantages of this system compared to a closed-loop DC gear-motor setup?by epicepee - General
Re: Rubber filament wheels - 8 years ago
Any standard-length NEMA 17 motor should work. I use one like this, direct-drive with a MK7, but this looks a little stronger.by epicepee - Reprappers
Re: PEI vs. BuildTak vs. PrintBite - 8 years ago
the_digital_dentist: It is likely that with a very-high-temp bed and a heated chamber, Kapton would work for ABS on my machine. However, my bed only gets to about 80C, and if I tried to enclose it the printer would soften and deform (it has PLA parts). Also, I rarely use ABS, because of its tendency to warp and delaminate (because, again, I can't use a heated chamber). So, I need somethingby epicepee - General
Re: PEI vs. BuildTak vs. PrintBite - 8 years ago
It sounds like the general consensus is: PEI is great, except for the occasional difficulty detaching. BuildTak is like PEI (when heated; I do have a heated bed) except cheaper and easier to damage. PrintBite does not adhere as strongly, especially to ABS. Anyone disagree?by epicepee - General
PEI vs. BuildTak vs. PrintBite - 8 years ago
Does anyone have experience with two or more of these surfaces? How do they compare? Thanks!by epicepee - General
Re: Cleaning out PETG from Nozzles. - 8 years ago
Be careful with DCM, though. Or with any toxic, flammable carcinogen.by epicepee - General
Re: linear rods VS aluminum extrusions and pulleys - 8 years ago
Linear rods tend to be fairly bendy. But if you want quality, use real linear guides, supported by aluminum extrusion.by epicepee - Delta Machines
Re: ABS warping solved (I think) - 8 years ago
It seems like in terms of warp prevention, the more the merrier. A brim is the simplest solution. If it works, it works! If that's not enough, add some tabs. And if delamination starts to be a problem, try a heated chamber. PEI, BuildTak, and various bed treatments might also be nice. Unless something has a significant downside (e.g. hairspray smell) you may as well use it.by epicepee - Printing
Re: ALL Metal Hot Ends and Printing PLA - 8 years ago
E3D v6 here. I mostly run PLA, with the occasional ABS and PETG. I have had jams, but it's always been my fault, e.g. junk stuck in the nozzle. Using decent PLA at reasonable speeds and temperatures, the hotend performs amazingly well. Jams seem to be caused by either too much retraction, junk in the nozzle, or too high of printing speeds / pressures. If you want to print faster, use fatterby epicepee - General
Re: Large-scale 3d printer - 8 years ago
Excellent! One minor trick that has helped my bed heat faster is covering the unused portions with aluminum foil, kapton-taped down. It reflects the heat that might otherwise radiate away. It won't help if you're using the whole bed, of course, but if you're only using a bit it can make a huge difference in terms of heating speed and power required to hold temperature.by epicepee - General
Re: Peachy Printer - $100 Photolithographic printer - 8 years ago
Well this is unfortunate. At least we have the idea. If they can't make them, we might be able to.by epicepee - General
Re: So I melted my bowden tube (PTFE) inside the hotend. What do? - 8 years ago
Is it Bowden or direct drive?by epicepee - General