Try manual calibration! I've never auto-calibrated my delta and it works great.by epicepee - Printing
Check all of your delta geometry settings -- rod length and radius being the most important. Note that it might not line up perfectly with real life -- if it works, it works. Really, though, a repeatable scaling error isn't always a huge deal. You can either rescale models in a slicer, or write a gcode pre-processor. The issue is if the models are also bent, or are not always the same dimensiby epicepee - Printing
the_digital_dentist: That is true, but even printing off SD, one might still leave a laptop hooked up -- I do. Not everyone's hardware is as reliable as yours, so it's a good idea to have a stop button and such ready to go.by epicepee - Developers
realthor: He probably means a "flying extruder" setup, relatively common on Deltas, where an extruder with a short Bowden tube is suspended loosely above the hotend using springs. The short tube reduces the downsides of a Bowden setup (elasticity, ooze / retraction) while reducing the moving mass of the effector / hotend.by epicepee - General
I'd have to recommend just replacing the pulley. Dealing with multiple sorts of belts and such can get both very annoying and very expensive.by epicepee - Mechanics
the_digital_dentist: Two important distinctions. First, some people like fixing printers, the same way some people like fixing cars. Others don't like it, but it's interesting enough that it's not worth much money to avoid it. For these people, cheap hardware may be a good idea. Second, it seems you use your printer a lot. Many people don't, and for them it may make sense to spend some timeby epicepee - General
Have you emailed Stratasys?by epicepee - General
Probably a combination of thermal and mechanical stress. I'd recommend replacing the glass with borosilicate, since float glass in the first place seems rather unreliable.by epicepee - General
Lucky bastard! Stick with the servos, if that's what they are, they'll give much better results than steppers. It looks like you could add a heated chamber as well.by epicepee - Reprappers
Tiko looks quite nice. The aluminum unibody with built-in linear rails, closed-loop DC motors, and accelerometers in the head and body sound nice. On the other hand, the passive-cooled hotend will be a pain, the lower half doesn't look very rigid, and I have no idea what they were thinking as far as the belt-and-pinion drive. The Pallete is $800. Nuff said. The MoonRay doesn't look too diffeby epicepee - Reprappers
Make sure the maximum Z speed is reasonable. Make sure the motors are wired up correctly and the stepper drivers have a reasonable current setting. Make sure you've set it as a delta in firmware!by epicepee - General
Srek: Interesting. I'll definitely have to try this. Do you think it would work to simply buy an el-cheapo E3D nozzle, drill it to 1.5mm, and tap it with a 1.7mm tap? Do I need to take special consideration to center the hole perfectly? Do I need to buy a certain type of airbrush nozzle? Thanks for all of your help!by epicepee - General
Srek: how does one tap 1.75mm threads? Would 1.7mm or 1.8mm work? Even those seem expensive, though.by epicepee - General
Srek: QuoteJamesK I wonder to what extent the print quality is because of the nozzle or despite it. He's never used the Merlin, so he doesn't know how much it helps or hurts. The fact is that any hotend can get good prints, so a few pictures isn't proof of quality. All the same, people do seem to like the Merlin.by epicepee - General
JamesK: Note that these are the best prints from this hotend. It may take a lot of work to get there. This would explain both the pictures and the relatively narrow acceptance (though it does seem to be growing). Srek: I think he's saying that he's surprised at the Merlin's capabilities. Which makes sense, because it's a very unique design. It would be like if some company started making aby epicepee - General
JamesK: Take a look at some of the Merlin hotend's prints. It does require finer tuning to deal with the lack of flattening, but it also allows for smaller details.by epicepee - General
That makes sense. The only difficulty I can see there is that I can't find m1.75 taps anywhere.by epicepee - General
karabas: Is that an entire hotend or does it attach to an E3D somehow?by epicepee - General
Build a frame out of reinforced concrete. Cheap, strong, rigid, and dampening, but you might need a crane to move it out of your workshop.by epicepee - Developers
You could always set up a Bowden extruder and a real hotend with a pen grip. Might work with one of those cheap hotends off eBay, since it doesn't need to be high-performance.by epicepee - Reprappers
Reinstall the Arduino software. Make sure you've got the right chip selected in the menus.by epicepee - Reprappers
toxuin: I'd guess Russian is their native language. It's better to post in that, and let others Google Translate, so that fellow Russians can read natively without double-google-translate.by epicepee - Developers
Just buy a pulley. They're cheap and work well. Actually, no, build a "gunstruder" off Thingiverse with some belts. I bet it has more force.by epicepee - General
I run my E3D-v6 at about 130 mm/sec, and could probably run it faster with a good extruder.by epicepee - General
VDX: That's exactly what I was thinking! the_digital_denitst: How fast do you print? What materials and settings?by epicepee - General
Wow! And for under $40! Yes, it's definitely a clone, but it still looks pretty awesome. I wonder how its performance compares to a genuine Diamond.by epicepee - General
Has anyone found or made an adapter that allows an airbrush nozzle to be used in an E3D hotend? I suspect a simple threaded brass cylinder would work, and airbrush nozzles are both cheap and precise.by epicepee - General
The OpenSCAD "difference" function is exactly this.by epicepee - 3D Design tools
Get a delrin nut off ebay. A badly-made steel nut will damage the shaft, and a well-made metal nut will cost several arms and legs. Plastic is cheap but precise.by epicepee - Mechanics