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Re: Quick 3d printing survey: help me with my Master of science in less than 5 minutes - 10 years ago
I've just filled out the survey. A few of the questions seem oriented towards people who don't currently own a 3D printer, so I found them a little difficult to answer. I left "would you consider buying a 3D printer" blank since I already said yes to owning one. I hope that's not an issue. I'm certainly interested to see the results when you have them.by samp20 - General
Re: More than extruding filament: PRINTING FILAMENT ! - 10 years ago
You're not the only one who has thought of this crazy but mostly useless idea. It would be interesting to see how many times you could reprint the filament before it degrades too much.by samp20 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
Quotekarabas How can it be?? Frame vibrations? I dont thinks so. The only thing I can imagine is that motors cannot stop instantly... I think it might be the plastic deforming slightly. Ideally I need a stiffer leadscrew nut holder on the X carriage. Quotekarabas Quote The Y axis is noisier than the X. I think the frame and bed are amplifying the vibrations a bit. Some decoupling similar to thisby samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
Quotekarabas Yes! exactly what I mean. Is ringing issue eliminated? About video. It seems X and Y sounds are different. X carriage is more quiet. Yes? Unfortunately the ringing issue isn't completely eliminated, but massively reduced. I think lowering the acceleration will help a bit further. The Y axis is noisier than the X. I think the frame and bed are amplifying the vibrations a bit. Someby samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Yes, 3D printers can go on fire. - 10 years ago
I haven't loked at the source code, but could you use the proportional/integral/differential values from the PID control loop to determine if strange behaviour is happening? Negative P and D terms would indicate a failure. Alternatively the integral term alone may be enough, i.e. the temperature has been too low for too long.by samp20 - Safety & Best Practices
Re: A big thank you to the admin or whomever... - 10 years ago
The issue we have here is a tradeoff. With the old system it was easier to reply to quoted messages, however it isn't as readable especially with nested quoting. The new system is more readable however it's not quite so easy to reply to. The best solution depends on whether you prefer ease of use or readability. Personally I prefer the latter, but that's just my opinion.by samp20 - General
Re: Trying to figure this all out... - 10 years ago
It's been said already, but I would definitely go for the i3. I made the mistake of going for the i2 because the reprap wiki seemed to suggest it for beginners. It's difficult to get "square" especially if you don't have a perfectly flat surface to remove any twist in the frame.by samp20 - Reprappers
Re: A big thank you to the admin or whomever... - 10 years ago
QuoteSublimeSure it looks all pretty but it makes inserting responses in the middle of a quote a pain in the ass. So yes fancy looking but less functional. It's not too difficult to do. QuoteSublimeI guess that is the way the world is going with computing as they remove all users options in favour of preconfigured touch screen devices with no configurability other than move around icons.by samp20 - General
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
I don't own a lathe either. The company I bought from turned them down for me. Their supplier is in Switserland: . You may be able to find a nearby distributor here:by samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
The screw I'm using is this one which is 6mm outer diameter: . I had the screw turned down to 5mm each end. The couplings were these: . Build progress can be found on the wiki . The stl files and the Sketchup model are in the linked github repo. The files may still change if I decide to reprint some parts (3D printing makes it too easy!). Also the BOM and printed parts lists on the wiki still neby samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
I don't have an issue of stalling, although some damping is still a very good idea. This video is it's first print: . It's a mount for my RAMPS board. Cable management is also on the TODO list.by samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
Can you be a bit more specific describing the "vertical wall with a hole"? This sort of test would show the issue I think you're talking about: . The ringing issue was the main reason for me switching to leadscrews. For reference here's how bad the ringing was with my old printer:by samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: [Help!] Could someone slice something for me please. - 10 years ago
If you look closely it also has the Google Sketchup person near the front-right wheel. I think the model is this one:by samp20 - Reprappers
Re: hot wax extruder - 10 years ago
Another option that has been investigated is to use a heatd piezo inkjet to place single dots of wax. Here's the link: . Your method is probably a lot faster.by samp20 - Developers
Re: [Help!] Could someone slice something for me please. - 10 years ago
Unfortunately I think your chances of slicing this model are very slim or zero. I just tried with Cura and it's extensive stitching algorithm, and the result is far from printable. If you find models with only minor errors then Cura should work okay.by samp20 - Reprappers
Re: Which power solution to use? - 10 years ago
With a RAMPS board I cut the P4 connector then wired the two yellow wires into the two "+" terminals, and the two black wires into the two "-" terminals. See here:by samp20 - General
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
I've just been playing around with the Y axis motor from my old RepRap on the Y axis of my new one. The results are very promising: 300mm/s works well, 320-350mm/s works although a few steps may have been skipped, and 400mm/s stalls completely. I'll set the maximum feedrate to 280mm/s to allow a safety margin. Here's the progress on the list of tasks I posted a while ago: Install the motors anby samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
That's roughly 16mm pitch. It looks like your ballscrews are single start too. Mine are a lot more lightweight with 5mm diameter, 20mm pitch and 16 threads .by samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
Quotecnc dick Nice-looking printer you might be a little low on power to drive it is a couple pics of mine using ballscrews .625 lead Thanks. I am a little concerned about power, although a test I did a while ago on the X axis worked at 200mm/s. If the final machine doesn't work then I always have the fallback option of switching back to belts. Your machine looks very professional. What pitch arby samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: What is the smallest practical XY step size? When does accuracy become overkill? - 10 years ago
I think the leadscrew thing is distracting from SamS' original question. I only mentioned the leadscrews since it was an example I had of a maximum resolution limit that you don't want to go any higher than. SamS was asking what diameter of pulley to use with a titanium thread. If the 100 steps/mm limit was chosen then that would result in a pulley diameter of 10.19mm.by samp20 - Reprappers
Re: What is the smallest practical XY step size? When does accuracy become overkill? - 10 years ago
Sorry, I was a bit vague with my post. The 200mm/s is the maximum travel speed before the motor starts skipping steps, not printing speed. It's still in progress so I don't have any printing results yet. All the progress is on the reprap wiki here: . It's a bit of a non-standard design because it uses leadscrews for all the axes instead of belts. This will likely result in a lower maximum speed tby samp20 - Reprappers
Re: What is the smallest practical XY step size? When does accuracy become overkill? - 10 years ago
The short answer is it's a trade-off between speed and accuracy. For the 3D printer I'm designing it has 160 steps/mm with 1/16 microstepping. Personally I wouldn't go any higher resolution that that otherwise you start to sacrifice speed too much. With that resolution I'm able to achieve at least 200mm/s. I haven't yet tested at any higher speeds (my firmware maximum speed limit needs increasinby samp20 - Reprappers
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
Aluminium base plate has been drilled and all but 4 of the holes have been tapped (waiting for an M3 tap). I printed a drilling template onto an A3 sheet of paper and glued it onto the protective plastic. Here's some photos: The base plate is for the Y axis. The heated bed PCB will attach with hex pillars screwed into the aluminium. QuoteHux Flux Nice Design i hope it will work Thanks, I hopeby samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: First Post - 10 years ago
Good luck with the build! And of course, don't be afraid to ask for help if you get stuckby samp20 - General
Re: Problem with nozzle dragging/z-stepping - 10 years ago
It sounds like you may not have the Z axis current set high enough, or too high. On layer changes can you hear the motors trying to turn? If you're using the plug in stepper drivers (e.g. Pololu) then there's a potentiometer that you can use to adjust the current. If you set the current too high this may also give you the same symptoms since the stepper driver will overheat and shutdown until it'by samp20 - General
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
Another quick update, My motor couplings arrived today, so I tested one out on the X axis. After changing the steps/mm the motor performs well up to the maximum 200mm/s my firmware allowed. The motor is only mildly warm to touch, so I can still increase the current some more if needed. I did notice the leadscrew was noisier than my belts, although the sound was amplified a lot by my wooden floorby samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: [POLOLU PINS]: Difference between SLEEP and ENABLE - 10 years ago
The main difference between SLEEP and ENABLE is that SLEEP disables the entire chip meaning the motors will return to a full step position when powered on again. ENABLE only disables the motors, but leaves all the other logic unaffected. Source:by samp20 - Developers
Re: Aluminium RepRap with leadscrews - 10 years ago
Quotejzatopa I have been considering a screw design as well, part of the reason I was interested in screws was the print quality of the aluminatus. I have even looked into using PBC simo assemblies but they are way to expensive to be viable, so I am going a different direction. Recently I had a talk with another printer builder and he told me that I wouldn't gain much over belts as long as theby samp20 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Holly frickn spam Batman!!!! - 10 years ago
What might help is to display a captcha if you create too many topics in a short time span. I'm not sure how easy that would be to implement though.by samp20 - General
Re: Slicer on a microcontroller - 10 years ago
Thanks, It looks like ARM is the way to go. I was trying to avoid that route since most ARM CPUs are in a BGA package which isn't the easiest package to work with. If anyone could point me towards a hobbyist friendly CPU that would be great. Ideally I would like to be able to get everything onto a 2 layer PCB. Maybe I'm asking for too much. The Raspberry Pi or similar is probably a good start asby samp20 - Developers