ok then 4 screw idea is off. Like I said before - as least risks as possible. This evening I'll try the idea of 2 shafts instead of 4 ans see how it goes. I'll also give another shot in getting everything as parallel as possible. From the results, I'll decide about going to a more rigid undercarriage (probably) and/or a longer bearing (not sure about it. will result in less Z axis range). I'lby Shachar85 - Developers
Then we're back to square one... 4 shafts (well...or 2) and 2 screws. I'm not sure that the flexibility of the plate is what causing the vibrations\rotations. Maybe it has to do with it, but I think the main reason is that gap between the screw and the nut. The same one causing backlash. While it is very small, when it is in the middle and bearings in both sides, it is enough to free the bearingby Shachar85 - Developers
James, thanks for the tips. I have 2 designs in the end of this post. Hope you can have a look. Mark, be sure there is no cheaping out. I'm pot committed a long time ago. The problem is that any mistake I make will take me another month or two to get the new parts. Most of the parts are from AliExpress. Otherwise, I would pay 3 times what I paid...and you're right... I paid pretty much. (no compby Shachar85 - Developers
No doubt 2 motors have the disadvantage of chance of getting out of sync, but they have a hell of advantage of twice the power of a single motor. Now, while I agree with you about 1 motor with a big belt - this motor has to drive 4 screws. That's a lot. So when you say a big motor - are you saying NEMA23 big? or a big NEMA17 big? and here's an idea - I don't know if it's a good one....but an iby Shachar85 - Developers
BTW, I think that 4 screws will give the best solution. 2 steppers with belts and 4 screws. or maybe 1 stepper with bigger belt? and of course a better undercarriage made from 20X20mm aluminum profiles. Found them very convenient to use. What do you think?by Shachar85 - Developers
Update: I tried to loose the rods and tighten again, as James advised. (not for the first time, but I realllyyy tried to be precise this time). For the upper half of Z axis - it now runs very smooth! At the middle of the movement downward, the bed construction started vibrating a bit. At the last quarter it got stuck for a bit (I freed it and it continued fine). I tightened all screws while thby Shachar85 - Developers
so if I understand correctly - what you suggest is actually removing 2 rods (from the first picture) making it OXO ...X instead of OXO OXO (O=rod, X= screw. don't mind the dots) and you suggest using supported rails instead of the rods. Is this what you meant? Well for starter I can check the option of removing 2 rods. using supported rails instead of rods will require bigger modificationsby Shachar85 - Developers
While designing, I had a feeling that I'm doing something wrong with the z axis. I continued anyway and paying the price now. The original design included 4 linear rods and 2 stepper motor. As some of you probably guessed - it got stuck. It is not possible for the 4 rods to be completely 100% parallel. That was what I feared and it happened. As can seen in the other picture, I tried to moveby Shachar85 - Developers
ok after reading some threads, I still find it hard to understand - Where should I connect the ATX's 5V to? To the usb? barrel? Should I remove D1? or something else? or just leave everything as it is and add the 5V?by Shachar85 - RAMPS Electronics
yep...probably. I now find a lot of information about it (most of it you wrote.lol) I didn't know what to search before. thanksby Shachar85 - RAMPS Electronics
Finally got to the point where my printer is mechanically built and it is time to move some axis. Uploaded marlin to the arduino - all is well. I could play with the menu and all is fine. -When I connect the 12v power supply, the system works for few seconds and I can play with the menu. After about 3-4 seconds, the screen freezes and nothing happen. -Shutting the power and powering again rightby Shachar85 - RAMPS Electronics
That's great news Thanks...again!by Shachar85 - General
Hello I hope I'm asking in the right place. I need a borosilicate glass 390X200mm. I was looking everywhere, but can't find a seller. Does anyone know a chinese seller (ebay probably) which sells a custom size plate? Has to be chinese, otherwise shipping cost more than the glass Thanksby Shachar85 - General
Thanks again for all the answers. I hope to post some photos as soon as the printer is assembled and printingby Shachar85 - Developers
That's great Could you tell me a bit of the theory behind the answer?by Shachar85 - Developers
Thanks for the answer. The thing is I can't get such a price over here. If I have no other choice - I'll buy a tooling plate, but I wonder what happens if I use regular plate? I'm not going to print on it - It's just a buffer. I print on a glass, which will flat for sure.by Shachar85 - Developers
Hi I'm in final stage of developing a printer - Buying stuff. I want to buy an aluminum sheet - 3mm thick. Silicone heater will be attached underneath it and 3mm glass above. Printing area = 200*400 I've heard that the aluminum plate must be milled. Now, the plate 400*230 is expensive and hard to find to begin with. Milled....much worse. My question - if I put a glass on top - Is it still imby Shachar85 - Developers
"if you want something done right - just do it yourself" I found the robert's heated bed Seems pretty easy and gives me all the flexibility I want for my design. I'll use it with 400X200 aluminum plate, 3mm thick I'll calculate the wire for about 300w. Is there a problem to use 24v? He said he wouldn't use more than 12v, but I think it was because he couldn't change the resistance after the aby Shachar85 - RAMPS Electronics
I rather use the MK for many reason. Going to silicone heater will require big changes in the design, which I don't really want to do right now. Is there any major advantage for the silicone heater that worth the effort? other than faster heating timeby Shachar85 - RAMPS Electronics
First of all thanks for the info. Every now and then I encounter a big issue I haven't though of and I'm glad I find it now and not after I bought all the parts. I was looking for silicone heaters. 200X400 are hard to find and if I do, they cost more than $50. That might not be a lot, but I rather spend this money in other parts. 2 MK2B cost less than $20 I wasn't aware of the sevenswitches.by Shachar85 - RAMPS Electronics
Yeah, I found it wasn't easy (what's the deal with all of them VAC?) finally found this and this thanks for the tipby Shachar85 - RAMPS Electronics
silicone heater is a bit expensive so the MK2B will have to do. will use ssr thanks!by Shachar85 - RAMPS Electronics
Hi I'm on final stages (I hope...) of designing a 3d printer. I was looking at the RAMPS 1.4 current supply and it seems that it can deliver 11A which is probably enough for 1 heatbed. What can be done if I need 2 heated beds? thanksby Shachar85 - RAMPS Electronics
That was very informative. I think i'm going to stay with my Z-axis lead screw... I don't want to redesign the whole thing, but I will definitely try to change the Y-axis to GT2 belt. I really hope it will be easier than expected. Thanks...again...for all the information. I really haven't put much thought of printing speedby Shachar85 - General
wow thanks for all the replies. I was away for few days. I really never asked myself what I'm gonna print with it. I mean - It sure gonna be in use all the time, but didn't think about printing gears. I had some reasons why not to use anti backlash, but I think I'm gonna use it anyway. I was wondering - since you brought up some topics I never thought about - if belt is faster than lead screw -by Shachar85 - General
Thanks for the answers, but I know there are solutions for the backlash My question is how bad can the backlash be if I ignore it? I mean - maybe I don't need such precise printer after all I'm going to use this lead screw:by Shachar85 - General
Hi I'm in advanced stage of designing 3D printer. I was thinking maybe to change my Y axis lead screw to ballscrew. I really prefer the lead screw, because I like my design so far, but I'm afraid of it's backlash. Can anyone tell me how much backlash can I expect having when using the lead screw? (Or at least an estimation - 0.1-0.2 mm or more like 1mm?) Thanks for any help in that matterby Shachar85 - General
Thanks a lot for all the answers and explanations! Just took another step to a printerby Shachar85 - General
I think that might have worked, but you can easily be right about that. Experience thought me that when you can fix potential problem during design - fix it then As you pointed that most people use bearing as idler instead of another pulley - I can't think of a reason not to use that method. I think I'll go that wayby Shachar85 - General
I figured because of the relatively slow rotation - the rod ends will act fine as bearings. I might be wrong though What do you think?by Shachar85 - General