I always remove any old ooze from the cold nozzle before starting the print. First probe with cold nozzle, then heat up. Only thing I had to do was correct trigger height by I think 0.07mm for heat-expansionby Dancer - General
Yes I always recommend a belt tensioner. - At least in my workshop temperatures can vary by about 10° - Temperature changes length of objects - so for me it is essential to have the clothes peg type tensioner - no fixed one. Only drawback I know: You have to lower jerk and acceleration, else it would stretch and compress with every move.by Dancer - General
Good to hear you solved it.by Dancer - Printing
If you brought on 11.11 it depends on the postal service if it will be delivered within the next days or after christmas - this is normal time-span. About 15-20 days is express, 30 days is normal, 45 days is still nothing to worry about.by Dancer - General
original Anet-Firmware is not released - I've searched for it myself a long time ago. 2 Possibilities: Get Skynet or trash your enlargement.by Dancer - General
QuoteDjDemonD Thank you for your feedback, do you mind if I put it on the website? You'r welcome And if you want you can use my pictures & OpenScad from theese two postingsby Dancer - General
Well... interesting Design, but I think your print quality (picture DSC01287.jpg) needs a "bit" (or maybe more) of improvement.by Dancer - Reprappers
QuoteDjDemonD ...., and for stationary beds the result is optimal. Yes indeed. I have two deltas - both with under bed sensors - not even mounted - just loosely put on top of the piezos (see my earlier posts). Since I have the piezos I NEVER ever had to worry about Calibration anymore. It simply works. Before the piezos, every evening I had to tinker arround with the bed height to get first layby Dancer - General
It is in configuration.h Aditional settings are in configuration_adv.h As a normal user theres normally nothing to do in any of the other tabs.by Dancer - General
You are on an english Forum - so well might be good to post in english. There is a german section of RepRap too - I do not know how active people are there. As far as I understand, you have a Delta Printer with a 32bit Board, with recently new firmware on the board. Since the firmware-upgrade the Leveling is not correct anymore - your printbed is bowl-shaped relative to your hotend. sounds toby Dancer - General
Did you configure your Mainboard in Marlin as RAMPS14_EFB or maybe RAMPS14_EFF ? (Hope I did write it down correct from just remembering)by Dancer - General
Thanks. Hmmm.... As you are using Marlin 1.1.0 RC2, which is quite old - might it be this Problem??? https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/778 Do you maybe have EEPROM enabled - Maybe for some kind of reason there has gone a wrong value into EEPROM? Do a M503 from your Host-Program and write down al the values Do a M502 and M500 - This should reset EEPROM to factory settingsby Dancer - Printing
Could you post the first lets say 100 lines of your g-code file, so we can see if the error is in the g-codes?by Dancer - Printing
Did you maybe by error enter a z-offset in Slic3r?by Dancer - Printing
Quotecheddy .... All the comments I see claim it is much better than Marlin. However, Marlin is working for me so far, so the old adage 'if it works don't fix it' rings true here. Thanks for all the advice. Your experience is the same I had. Had a working Marlin, tried Repetier, because of all those comments. Gave up after nearly 4 weeks without beeing able to get repetier behave like needed. Jby Dancer - General
Great to know it worked. Was a pleasure.by Dancer - General
Sorry to say it very directly: Trash Slic3r 1.2.9 move on to the Slic3r-Versions from Prusa - it's a fork of the original Slic3r, but much more advanced than original Slic3r will be with in the next years. 1.2.9 had a bad calculation error with infill espacially at gap-fill and thin wall. I've never beeen able to print really good with 1.2.9 - with Prusa-Versions it's much much better - and eveby Dancer - Printing
Regarding the Plastic Bag Tent: Where do you suck the fumes away, and where does fresh air re-enter the bag? Is it really useful / neccesarry / a good idea to seal it with a rubber seal? Or do you want to make a closed filtration system inside of the bag?by Dancer - Safety & Best Practices
https://www.amazon.com/Timer-Switch-Enerlites-Countdown-Bathroom/dp/B01LXRNFGG 2 Pack for $36by Dancer - General
did you do extruder-calibration linke this? e-steps Which Slicer are you using? - Which version?by Dancer - Printing
So other beds with the same machine, same controller, same firmware are working?by Dancer - Printing
QuoteArnold ... Will it clogg through the time when its heated and not used ? ... most likely: yesby Dancer - Printing
hmmm.... which version of slic3r are you using? - I think I remember having a similar issue long ago. now I use prusa-version of slic3r: Prusa-Slic3r EDIT: Maybe with newer Version of Slic3r you have to redo extruder-calibration. There was an calculation-error in an older version of slic3rby Dancer - Printing
it is not neccesarry to extend with the same cable, because it is far enough eway from heat. just pick any cable with good copper-diameter (the bigger the diameter, the more power goes to the hotend)by Dancer - General
For Autocalibration there is nothing easier than piezo sensor - check other threads on this forum under "General" My two printers do not have heatbeds and to get PLA stick to the printbed I use simple painters tape. You can use expensive "3M Blue painters tape" or just get to the next hardwarestore and pick any painters tape you can get. Cheap, clean, easy to install.by Dancer - Developers
Do youhave a thermistor in good contact to the heatbed? Is the thermistor correct configured in your firmware? Slow heating with the new Powersupply sounds strange. How did you connect MOSFET and 2nd Powersupply to the controller and first Powersupply? For the heatbed you have BANG-BANG enabled - not PID - maybe try PID insted? just remove // from //#define PIDTEMPBED if Problem still persistsby Dancer - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Take care, you are not extruding to fast for the test. Hotend is only able to melt a certain ammount of filament per time. Clean your extruder-gear, and check if you are able to pull out filament when stepper is enabled (should not be possible - else extruder gear is slipping) Check by hand-extruding through whole system, if it is easy to do - if no, check where path is obstructed. Check secure cby Dancer - Printing
Impossible. Without homing, you'll nerver ever have perfect knowledge of where your hotend is. Microsteps always get lost with power off, because stepper snapps to next full step.by Dancer - Firmware - Marlin
Forget the single wall box for calibrating E-Steps. Never will get you to your goal. Do it like this! Then your perimeters of the hole will be touching each other, and then you can start to hunt the top layer issue.by Dancer - Printing