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Re: What is your experience with dual hotends? Are they worth the trouble? - 8 years ago
Quoterealthor Basically the heatsink (alu) would have to have this flap cut into. Yes, I understand that. I understood it to start, which is why I showed a method that can do just that. Having never done this, or anything like it you suppose something will happen with the set screw. Having actually done it, it wasn't a concern of mine.by Koko76 - General
Re: What is your experience with dual hotends? Are they worth the trouble? - 8 years ago
Quoterealthor QuoteKoko76 Not super useful though unless you have a wire cutter. Sorry to be thick-headed but what part is the one you are cutting the flap into? The idea is pretty neat but the flap should also not be alu i suppose otherwise the set screw might eat into it. These are things I have actually done, I don't need to suppose or speculate. What I described is a method in general to clby Koko76 - General
Re: What is your experience with dual hotends? Are they worth the trouble? - 8 years ago
Not super useful though unless you have a wire cutter.by Koko76 - General
Re: What is your experience with dual hotends? Are they worth the trouble? - 8 years ago
QuoteJamesK QuoteTheory is one thing, but actually adjusting something like this to work in the real world is a different matter. Tightening threads against each other is generally very very fiddly. Yes, I agree, I don't think I'd want to try and use a lock nut to set the final height of a threaded throat. With a smooth throat I prefer a clamp to a set screw. I cut the slot with a slitting saw wby Koko76 - General
Re: What is your experience with dual hotends? Are they worth the trouble? - 8 years ago
QuoteJamesK QuoteKoko76 Look at existing work. E3d is nice enough to publish drawings of already working designs. Which designs did you have in mind? Me personally? None. I strongly considered building my new machine around a dual extruder design, mainly for the purpose of printing dissolvable support material. I ultimately decided against designing around it for a number of reasons. Mainlyby Koko76 - General
Re: What is your experience with dual hotends? Are they worth the trouble? - 8 years ago
Look at existing work. E3d is nice enough to publish drawings of already working designs.by Koko76 - General
Re: Alternative to carbon fiber arms? - 8 years ago
Pultruded is by nature unidirectional. While you get some benefit from compression during the wrapping and heating phase of unidirectional rolled tubing as opposed to pulltruded, a greater benefit can be had with larger diameter tubing.by Koko76 - Delta Machines
Re: Alternative to carbon fiber arms? - 8 years ago
Quotenebbian Look at bigger diameter tube, and use woven rather than pulltruded rod. Stiffest tube in bending is unidirectional, not woven. . I use some of their 10mm od uni carb tube, very stiff.by Koko76 - Delta Machines
Re: extruder ripples in outer wall - 8 years ago
You increased the mass carried on the carriage, perhaps this s a result of that. Does it get better printing slower/lower acceleration? Is the attachment of the direct hot end rigid? Hanging out a whole lot more from the attachment point than before (greater moment).by Koko76 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Dumb question about configuration - 8 years ago
All of the settings for your duet are in config.g in the form of various g codes. Have a look at the file and then compare what you see there to the wiki page on g code commands here. You can figure out what each code does and learn a lot. Of course Dave is correct with m92, but you may want to look into what some other stuff is as well, might discover something useful you didn't even know exiby Koko76 - Duet
Re: Timing belt Vs fishing line - 8 years ago
One has teeth which provide specific delineated positions. One does not. Just because fishing line is "precise" doesn't mean anything to its ability to sync two things together. Specifically with dyneema (spectra) line you have to tie specific knots to get it to hold, it's very slippery. It's not something I would trust to maintain position on a wound drum. Your mileage may vary, it mightby Koko76 - General
Re: Timing belt Vs fishing line - 8 years ago
For fishing, fishing line. For accurate positioning or synchronization of shafts a timing belt. Almost like they were named after what they are designed to do. Perhaps you have a more specific question of applications, but "which is best" is so open ended as to provide no usable results.by Koko76 - General
Re: Coffeetable CoreXY:: new build :: small apartment rep-strap solutions - 8 years ago
At the risk of adding fuel to an already ridiculous fire, how well do you think tolerances are held on the inside of a tube? Outside of extruded stock? Not all that great, I would not count at all on a 16mm sq bar fitting inside a tube 20mm tube with 2mm thick walls. Insides of structural tube is generally not held to any sort of tolerance, especially welded tubing. I realize you are most liby Koko76 - CoreXY Machines
Re: How to correctly measure arm length? - 8 years ago
QuoteSimon0362 Interested to hear how everybody 'accurately' measures the arm length to a 1/10 mm...My arms are ~330mm in length and most of my really accurate equipment is only capable of measuring to 12"/300mm... Part way through a Kossel XL from Builda3DPrinter so this is about to become a critical issue! Simon I wire cut a gauge for mine. The two measurement faces are about as parallel asby Koko76 - Delta Machines
Re: Dual drive gear extruder - interest and experience - 8 years ago
QuotetomMulholland Hi Koko, Thanks for your reply. I agree that the print quality is certainly affected by more things than just the extruder having trouble at high speeds. However, I would suggest that the problem is more real than people realize. For example, a colleague of mine did some extrusion tests with a temperature sweep. He used a FlashForge Creator 2, and sent the plain Gcode commandby Koko76 - General
Re: Dual drive gear extruder - interest and experience - 8 years ago
QuotetomMulholland That may be true in some cases, but consider that the newest generations of printers claim to reach speeds of 100, 200, or even 300 mm/s. I agree that print quality generally goes down as the speed is increased, but that precisely indicates that the extruder isn't functioning as desired. That's another reason to consider upgrading the extruder in some way. First off there is aby Koko76 - General
Re: Inverse Kinematics Application ? - 8 years ago
Inverse kinematics is used in the equations to derive joint angles from desired position of the end effector. An algorithm that for example, causes a robot to translate in different directions uses IK to achieve joint positions which are setup in a walking cycle. I have a 3DOF (3 degrees of freedom per leg) quadropod, it uses an Arduino based board to receive commands via radio serial link. Tby Koko76 - General
Re: Duet development news - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 QuotePRZ I get the point not having 12V on a 24V machine, but 5V IS available and widen the choice for the controlled fans. At the very minimum, the controlled fan LED rail shall be disconnectable to be able to supply in 5V without tricky wiring. That could probably be done, but would users be happy to have a choice between all the controlled fans driven from 5V and all driven from Viby Koko76 - Duet
Re: Electronic Suggestion? - 8 years ago
Taken directly from smoothieboard.org : "Small mosfets These are two small SMT mosfets : ZXMN4A06 ( 40V/5A ) They are usefull for small loads like hotends, fans, led lighting, relays, etc … The power input is shared by the two mosfets. Meaning the power input ( 3.5mm pins at the top ) provides power to both of them. And then each mosfet has its own two-pin output, with the choice between 2.5by Koko76 - General
Re: Electronic Suggestion? - 8 years ago
QuoteTraumflug QuoteKoko76Then I suggest you take another look at how the fets are configured. Why should I investigate the layout of this board? If the makers of it don't understand it and write wrong documentation, how could I be better? That said, it's your statement that documentation is wrong. Me only cites what's written there. Then your reading comprehension is poor. What I described isby Koko76 - General
Re: Electronic Suggestion? - 8 years ago
QuoteTraumflug QuoteKoko76I am specifically referring to the physical hardware present on the board to allow independent power supplies to be connected. I personally don't like relying on PWM for things like that. Looking at I see that Smoothiebard has only one power connector (and another one for 5V logic). The page explicitely talks about "reduced PWM settings" for connecting heaters when suby Koko76 - General
Re: Electronic Suggestion? - 8 years ago
QuoteTraumflug QuoteKoko76 Quotedc42 3. No, you need 24V bed heater and hot end heater, and probably 24V fans as well depending on the controller. Smoothieboards allow separate power for different things so if that board is used this is not true. All boards allow this, it's a pure firmware thing. PWM is simply limited to less than 100% (typically to 70/255 = ~ 30%). I'd be suprised if Marlin doeby Koko76 - General
Re: Electronic Suggestion? - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 3. No, you need 24V bed heater and hot end heater, and probably 24V fans as well depending on the controller. . Smoothieboards allow separate power for different things so if that board is used this is not true. I ran a 24v stepper/hot end system with 12v fans for example. You could split the hot end from the steppers as well.by Koko76 - General
Re: Moving from Slic3r to simplify3d - 8 years ago
QuoteTreito QuoteKoko76 Another poster suggested extrusion width to nozzle width, there is a reason simplify "auto" sets it to 120% of nozzle width. So from what you are talking about else? If the manufacturer recommends a setting for Slic3r this is not portable to S3D? If I set the extrusion width to auto I am getting holes at the surface. That's an only problem by S3D and seems to be a calculaby Koko76 - General
Re: Moving from Slic3r to simplify3d - 8 years ago
QuoteTreito First of all for my printer model the recommended Slic3r settings was to use extrusion width to nozzle width. If I set it to auto I have some troubles with my prints especially if I have thin walls. And I get a better looking surface. Secondly the recommended way is to set the expected filament diameter and to set the extrusion factor instead of changing the value for the extrusion diby Koko76 - General
Re: Moving from Slic3r to simplify3d - 8 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD If so I missed it. It's on the "advanced" tab I believe. It's nowhere near where you expect it to be, but it is absolutely there. Another poster suggested extrusion width to nozzle width, there is a reason simplify "auto" sets it to 120% of nozzle width. You want a little bulge on the sides so you can control the shape of the extruded filament, at extruder width it is harder toby Koko76 - General
Re: backlash trouble - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Is the pulley made for a 1/4" shaft? NEMA-17 motors have 5 mm shaft. If you try to use a 1/4" (6.35 mm) pulley on a 5mm shaft it will cause all sorts of problems. The pulley and shaft axes won't match and the belt tension will vary as the motor rotates. That would cause weird print problems for sure. If it's a 5 mm shaft pulley, I can't see how doing anything with theby Koko76 - General
Re: Retraction optimization - 8 years ago
Many slicers have options to control the minimum length of filament extruded before a retract will occur. This is specifically to prevent going over the same area of filament with a drive gear. Perhaps have a look into if the slicer you use has this feature. A possible way to lower retract settings in a Bowden system is to use a "coast" or similar slicer function that will finish perimeter moveby Koko76 - Printing
Re: nGEN PLA from ColorFabb - 8 years ago
nGen is not PLA, it is according to the web site a "co-polyester". My initial experience was positive, but I found that the roll I had was inconsistent, and had spots where layer bonding was terrible. I also found that this filament shows layers a lot more than anything else I've tried. I found issues too when printing finer layers (.05mm). I too was very happy initially, but after completiby Koko76 - Delta Machines
Re: Z Axis Belt drive - 8 years ago
QuoteMKSA BTW, idler pulleys MUST be toothed when inside the belt ! An smooth pulley will crush the rubber tooth and leads to unreliable tension and wear. That's not what the applications manual at SDP-SI says. They call out a minimum diameter for non toothed internal idlers, I want to say a 40t equivalent diameter.by Koko76 - General