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Everybody here is a developer. Share what you are doing !
Re: Santa Rosa Group - 12 years ago
I'm down in Dublin (near Livermore and Pleasanton), I have a fair amount of odds and ends, mostly PLA but I also have some lengths of ABS in 3mm, in various colors. PM me if you're interested.by Mkouri - California, San Francisco Bay Area RUG
Re: Looking to buy prusa mendal parts - 12 years ago
I could print you a set this weekend, or I already have a couple Mendelmax (see ) sets already printed. I'm in Dublin, if you wanted to see them first. PM me if you are interested or want me to send you some pictures.by Mkouri - California, San Francisco Bay Area RUG
Re: Mkouri's Tantillus build - 12 years ago
I'm hoping to finish up what you've already posted this weekend, so your timing is perfect.by Mkouri - Tantillus
Re: [USA] Mendelmax parts for sale - 12 years ago
Price reduced, how about $100?by Mkouri - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Re: Bunch of problems with PLA - 12 years ago
My guess after looking at your pictures is that you are trying to push the filament thru the melt zone of your hotend too fast. Increase your temperature 5 or 10 degrees and/or slow down the feed rate to see if that makes a positive change. Have you checked the filament with calipers to confirm it is both round and uniform in diameter along its length? Poor quality filament could also lead to tby Mkouri - Printing
Re: What are the printing areas of the diferent repraps out there? - 12 years ago
The ORD bot is not really a reprap but is very well documented, see I thought I had a large print area in my oversized one at 400mm x 400mm x 350mm, but Ferny on the buildlog forum has documented his that has 2 feet x 2 feet print area.by Mkouri - General
Re: nichrome wire instalation - 12 years ago
I'm not familiar with that particular kit. I assume that the nichrome has an insulator of some sort and is not just bare wire. You generally want the melt zone as small as possible, so you should wrap it within the threads of the threaded rod about a dozen turns at most as close to the nozzle as possible. Try not to go over the threads so that you don't cut the insulation. Then wrap all of it inby Mkouri - Reprappers
Re: Bunch of problems with PLA - 12 years ago
Are you monitoring the temperature in Pronterface? When the spitting or morse printing occurs, has your temperature dropped? Where did you get the PLA? I've tried all the Ultimachine colors and personally found their orange to be the worst as far as consistency of printing is concerned; I can improve the quality of prints by raising the temperature 10 to 15 degrees compared to for example their gby Mkouri - Printing
Re: nichrome wire gauge? - 12 years ago
I've got and use both types as well. I was referring to the brass or aluminum block giving more thermal mass. Ceramic blobs like Makergear uses or fire cement or muffler cement like many other people have used can address the insulation issues with nichrome wire, but yeah I guess you're right - power resistor hotends can take more rough handling than nichrome wire hot ends.by Mkouri - Reprappers
Re: Buying/Building My First RepRap - 12 years ago
PLA smells kind of sweet while printing. ABS smells like cancer.by Mkouri - Reprappers
Re: How to print a pin in a hole? - 12 years ago
Orient it such that the pin is a tower surrounded by the socket?by Mkouri - Printing
Re: nichrome wire gauge? - 12 years ago
I've used 30ga and 31ga nichrome very successfully. The 30ga works out as mentioned above to about 6.5ohms per foot, the 31ga is about 8.2 PLMs per foot, so you want it about 50cm shorter for the same settings in your firmware. I don't agree with the comment about power resistors being more robust; they are usually in a brass or aluminum block which gives you more thermal mass and thus take longby Mkouri - Reprappers
Re: translucent materials for printing? - 12 years ago
Ultimachine (http://Ultimachine.com) carries a nice transluscent green PLA, as well as a blue.by Mkouri - General
Re: Calibration problem? - 12 years ago
I agree now that backlash seems like the prime remaining suspect, and checking belt tightness and free play should help identify that. Gregted, room temperature and humidity both have a part in the best extrusion temperature, as does the particular plastic. I've found that the Ultimachine transluscent PLA works best for me at 10-15 degrees cooler than their more heavily saturated colors, and iby Mkouri - General
Re: Calibration problem? - 12 years ago
If I am looking at your photos correctly it looks like the infill not touching the perimeter is mostly on the Y direction, is that correct? Do you have springs on your printbed, and how much give do you have? Could it be the bed bouncing on the springs? Slowing down even more should confirm/deny that. Another thought is that your nozzle is not as large as you may think. Perhaps it has gotten slby Mkouri - General
Re: Calibration problem? - 12 years ago
By firmware I meant the code that executes on your Arduino, something like Marlin, Sprinter, Teacup, 5D, or the like. The temperature you are using is in the right ballpark for PLA, but if your firmware is using the wrong temperature table then it is possible that you are not getting as hot as you think and therefore may be stretching the filament around inside perimeters and/or not getting adby Mkouri - General
Re: Calibration problem? - 12 years ago
MrBlack, Tell us a little more about the plastic (is it PLA or ABS) and your Slic3r settings. What indicated temperature are you printing at, do you have a thermocouple on a multimeter that confirmed your indicated temperate is close to what you are really extruding at, what speeds do you have Slic3r set for perimeters and infill? When you watch it print one of these objects, does it look to youby Mkouri - General
[USA] Mendelmax parts for sale - 12 years ago
Mendelmax parts Mendelmax 1.0 plastic parts, including AlephObjects Z axis mounts (http://thingiverse.com/thing:15861), tommyc's LM8UU Y carriage (http://thingiverse.com/thing:17188), Greg's Wades hinged extruder for groovemount with hobbed bolt and bearings, and Greg's X carriage with fan mount (http://thingiverse.com/thing:9869). Photo is of green Ultimachine PLA parts, I also have theby Mkouri - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Re: Choosing a Hot end - 12 years ago
I have used the older arcol.hu hot-end and have the J-heads on a couple of my printers. Both of these are excellent hot-ends and I highly recommend them. I believe they are worth the expense. Both have longer tips than many other on the market and have less die swell than typical, a 0.50mm nozzle extrudes as if it is a 0.40mm nozzle. The mix-shop type extruder can work very well and last a longby Mkouri - Reprappers
Re: Retract Z or not not? - 12 years ago
What value do you have set for 'minimum travel after retraction'? FWIW I have mine set to 0.2mm.by Mkouri - General
Re: Retract Z or not not? - 12 years ago
Like nophead I don't lift Z unless the parts are tall and thin. I use a geared extruder so I don't know if this will help you, but try increasing the speed of the filament retraction instead of the distance. In my experience with Makergear hotends 1mm retraction is far enough, and I set the speed of retraction as fast as I can get on that printer.by Mkouri - General
Re: Webbing on prints - 12 years ago
Gregted, it looks to me like you are perhaps moving too fast in the perimeters for the temperature, and possibly have the retraction speed too low for the non-printing moves. Try slowing down perimeter speed in Slic3r and/or increase your temperature.by Mkouri - Reprappers
Re: Error codes in sli3er - 12 years ago
Gregted, it looks to me like you are going too fast thru the turns for the temperature, causing the extruded filament to get stretched into the webbing you see. Try slowing down the perimeters in Slic3r and/or increasing your temperature by 5 degrees at a time. Another thing to consider is to increase the retraction speed (not necessarily the distance) so that you don't get the stringing duringby Mkouri - Reprappers
Re: Estimated time to print a set of MendelMax 1.0 parts? - 12 years ago
If I print a few parts each weeknight and all day during the weekend, it takes me about a week to print a full set including X axis, Y carriage, and a Greg's Wades extruder. Thats with 40% infill on most parts and layer height of .25mm using a 0.50mm nozzle.by Mkouri - Reprappers
Re: artifact, Slic3r or STL? - 12 years ago
Yes, I was able to repair it with netfabb. I had to do it twice for some reason, but the artifact shrank to insignificance when done.by Mkouri - Tantillus
Re: Mkouri's Tantillus build - 12 years ago
I just posted a problem with one of the connectors (Base_rear) in a new thread. I'm afraid to send you my rotated versions until I figure out whether I messed it up (and potentially others) or not.by Mkouri - Tantillus
artifact, Slic3r or STL? - 12 years ago
I laid the connector Base_rear down flat for ease of printing but am seeing a small square artifact oriented diagonally just before it completes the portion with slots and moves on to the upper portion with holes. It covers up one hole and part of one slot. Is this a problem with Slic3r, my laying it down flat, or in the STL?by Mkouri - Tantillus
Re: Mkouri's Tantillus build - 12 years ago
Started printing the connectors tonight. Looks like most of them also have to be reoriented to print correctly. I see that new files were posted on the github site, will have to take a look at them.by Mkouri - Tantillus
Re: Makerslide available at Inventables - 12 years ago
WildBill, I know it's tough, but it's worth the wait. I hope you also ordered the V-wheels. I've built several of the original Sells Mendels, a MendelMax and Bart Dring's ORD bot, and I have to say that the ORD went together the easiest with the least adjustment, and the Makerslide is awesome. I'm finishing up a way oversized one (350mm cubed print area) that will become my primary print-lots-of-by Mkouri - Extruded Aluminum Frames