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Everybody here is a developer. Share what you are doing !
Makerslide available at Inventables - 12 years ago
Looks like Inventables is taking orders again for Makerslide, with 6 week lead time. Unlike last time, there's no minimum orders before they start the factory.by Mkouri - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Pronterface Border Problem - 12 years ago
Did you ever get an answer or figure this out? It looks to me like you need to tell your slicer that the center of your print bed is at 100,100 and not what looks like about 65,65. If the red dot truly is where your center is, then you may need to break this tray into components and print them individually, or justb print the tray twice and discard the truncated pieces.by Mkouri - RepRap Host
Re: Daves tantillus build - 12 years ago
Dave, What slicer are you using? What layer height, and what nozzle diameter? I'm quite impressed with the output you're getting. Did I read it right that you printed all four bases in about four hours, or was there a delay in your posting? FWIW, I've got a 0.50mm nozzle back on my printer (clogged up the 0.35mm being stoopid) and have been printing at 0.35mm layers. If I remember right each baby Mkouri - Tantillus
Re: Mkouri's Tantillus build - 12 years ago
All of the top parts needed to be flipped over. The base and middle parts were fine. It'll probably be next weekend before I get to the last top parts and the connectors.by Mkouri - Tantillus
Mkouri's Tantillus build - 12 years ago
It's coming together. I got some stringing on the base plates where what looks like a bottom plate will get attached. Luckily thats in an area that won't show. One thing I noticed today is that the top parts need to be flipped over before printing, or you need a really REALLY good printer. I wasn't paying attention, got about 20% in on the first one, and it started dragging parts around on the pby Mkouri - Tantillus
Re: Which kit to buy? - 12 years ago
To some degree, choosing the right kit should take into consideration where you are, if there is a reprap user group nearby, and what they all have. If you are the UK then I would suggest looking at the ReprapPro Huxley. On the other hand, if you were in northern California, especially near Sacramento, I would suggest the Printrbot. No matter where you are, based on past personal experience withby Mkouri - General Mendel Topics
Re: Ok, I've been bitten... - 12 years ago
Since your primary interest is in printing things rather than the hobby of making self-replicting printers, I suggest you look at the laser-cut Printrbot instead of the Wallace, and consider the MendelMax, Mendel90 or even the ORD bot. I've built a number of printers in different designs, and the ORD went together the quickest and easiest but the components are the hardest to acquire - right noby Mkouri - General
Re: Tantillus portable 3D printer - 12 years ago
gerards1111 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It seems comments are being deleted off the > campaign questioning the open source nature. Not > mine. What makes you think that? Tin-foil hat on too tight?by Mkouri - General
Re: Tantillus portable 3D printer - 12 years ago
Gerards1111, Where did all that anger come from? Your profile says you've made 33 posts, and all of them I've seen have been complaints or criticism. Those are hallmarks of the general definition of a troll. Sublime and nophead have both made hundreds of posts each and have contributed not only lots of their time and discoveries to the community but also designed lots of things that they have freby Mkouri - General
Re: Tantillus support forum - 12 years ago
I saw the ABS files, but was planning on using PLA anyway. I'm thinking Ultimachine green transluscent. I will take pictures as I go. I think my Sells Mendel is tuned fairly well.by Mkouri - Tantillus
Re: Tantillus support forum - 12 years ago
Sublime, You made the right choice. I'm excited to see your Indiegogo campaign, I hope you make your goal! I plan to start printing the case this weekend.by Mkouri - Tantillus
Re: Unknown origin Z offset - 12 years ago
Look at the g-code itself, is Slic3r instructing your printer to do this, or is it doing it without any specific commands to do this? If Slic3r is doing it, look in the advanced g-code tab at the start g-code sequence, perhaps that got adjusted?by Mkouri - General
Re: Stratasys's mojo : throw-away hotends - 12 years ago
Todd, Could you share the test part you printed? From the photo in your article I don't see any reason why it couldn't be printed with a consumer or hobbyist printer. I am curious why you said the consumer printer was unable to print a usable part. Are there unseen details on the bottom of the part? In my own experience after a couple years and well over 20 pounds of filament pushed thru my mainby Mkouri - General
Re: Move head after print is done? - 12 years ago
That's usually controlled by your slicer, and is often called the end g-code sequence. In Slic3r it's under the Custom G-code tab. Just append something like "G1 X125 Y0" .by Mkouri - General
Re: Relationship between Filament, Extruder Size and Printing… - 12 years ago
Geeez. I dont know why I ever disagree with nophead. I switched from the 0.35mm nozzle I had been using since before converting to Slic3r to a 0.50mm nozzle, and the solid surfaces stopped looking as good,more than can be explained by the nozzle change. I did as lincomatic and changed what I told Slic3r was the nozzle size (now 0.60mm), and the quality went back to what I was expecting. I then duby Mkouri - General
Re: Relationship between Filament, Extruder Size and Printing… - 12 years ago
Nophead, I haven't dug into the software to see how Slic3r accomplishes this, I am guessing that it makes assumptions about the die swell ratio that from empirical experience printing at different layer heights appears to me to be to be fairly accurate. You should try it on one of your Prusas or Mendel90, I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how much easier it is to use than Skeinforge. Itby Mkouri - General
Re: Relationship between Filament, Extruder Size and Printing… - 12 years ago
lincomatic Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > So.. say, I have a .4mm nozzle. When I test > extrude, after cooling, the diameter of the > plastic is generally .6mm. > Slic3r has nozzle diameter as an input. Do I > input .6 or .4mm? > How do I figure out the min/max layer heights I > can use? Is it dependent on the printing speed? > &by Mkouri - General
Pre-orders open for ORD bots on Inventables - 12 years ago
I've built the smaller version of this, the Quantum ORD bot, and they go together in a couple of hours. The Makerslide construction means you get excellent squareness and stiffness, and amazing speeds.by Mkouri - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Santa Rosa Group - 12 years ago
I am down in Dublin, so it would be a little drive for me to attend, but if you do start monthly meetings then I will try to drop in occasionally. I have an old Sells Mendel that has been melting plastic for a couple of years, just finished a Quantum ORD bot (using extruded aluminum, Makerslide), and am assembling a Mendelmax now. I have experimented with a lot of different hot ends, and have sby Mkouri - California, San Francisco Bay Area RUG
Re: Extruding Inconsistancies - 12 years ago
Are you using bang-bang temperature control or PID? I found that bang-bang can easily have 5 degree swings +/- of the target temperature. That shouldn't be enough to completely explain what you are seeing, but could be a contributing factor. Have you had this PLA for a while, and is it in a temperature and humidity controlled environment? If it has not, then perhaps the PLA has absorbed humidityby Mkouri - General
Re: What's everyone's opinion on what the best firmware is? - 12 years ago
I was using Sprinter for several months and liking it before moving to Marlin. What originally attracted me to Marlin was the acceleration which seemed to put less stress on my printer and the smoother arcs, but I understand Sprinter now has comparable acceleration. What kept me on Marlin, other than inertia, was the ability to dynamically change my parameters and save them to EEPROM rather thanby Mkouri - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Building MendelMax and need help - 12 years ago
I am building a Mendelmax, so we can share experiences. I printed out all the parts for the 1.0 before I discovered there was a version 1.5. Personally I prefer the motors on the bottom, but not so much that I wanted to print out the different pieces just yet. Perhaps after I have it up and running I will reconsider. I use and recommend the Makergear hot ends, I like their groovemount attachmentby Mkouri - Reprappers
Re: Latest Stable Build 2012 - 12 years ago
Buback, I have to applaud your willingness to stick with this and get it done. I know it wasn't easy getting even close to consensus among such a disparate group of opinionated people, but I think this will definitely help the new people who are trying to figure out where to start, especially now that there are such a wide assortment of printers to choose from. Good job!by Mkouri - General
Re: Serial Error on Mendel - 12 years ago
Are you priming the hot end by extruding filament before you start the print job? If so, you may need to edit your gcode to send a G92 E0 first thing. It sounds to me like it's trying to rewind to zero because you had advanced the extruder manually.by Mkouri - General
Re: Broken PTFE insulator - 12 years ago
I'm not really familiar with the longboat Prusa, but yes that's the same part I sent to Pierre and that worked for him. Yes, your understanding of how it's *supposed* to work is correct. When the tension on the PEEK block is correct that hot-end design can last for a long time. I probably pushed 10+ pounds thru mine before I moved to the Makergear hot ends.by Mkouri - General
Re: Not another 3D printer company?!?! - 12 years ago
Chelsea, this is really looking good. I can't wait to look you up at the Makerfaire and see the printer in person.by Mkouri - General
Re: [Solved] Stepper Motor wont turn... - 12 years ago
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I go for the highest current that does not give > overheating because that gives the most accurate > positioning. Interesting. I seem to learn something new from you every week. I haven't noticed any lack of accuracy, but will try adjusting the trimpots on my white Sells Mendel made from your parts to see if very sby Mkouri - General
Re: [Solved] Stepper Motor wont turn... - 12 years ago
Yes, that's the trimpot, and yes that's the way I adjust them. Use a jewelers screwdriver or eyeglass repair screwdriver. Don't touch anything except the trimpot while doing so.by Mkouri - General
Re: Few Questions... - 12 years ago
I still think its the extrusion width ratio. I use values closer to 1.0 - 1.15 when printing in PLA, depending on the filament color and the temperature I am using. Hotter temps cause the filament to swell more, and more richly colored filament seems to need hotter temperatures to print well. With a value of 1.8 you are telling Slic3r that your PLA will end up almost twice as wide as it is tall wby Mkouri - Slic3r